I've used 78" on the shower head for years. I've never had a
complaint. At 6' 6" off the floor, that's a good measurement. I
suppose the additional 2" is a good idea. It would accommodate those
people out there who are a little taller. Yeah, I like it.
OK, I'll change it to 80"
As you know, some of these measurements are not code. I've been
working on a pile of business-card sized cheat cards so some of those
guys out there who don't have as much experience will have something
in their wallet for quick reference.
Thanks for pointing out that I failed to mention the 4" above the tub
rim and I forgot to mention to build the entire shower assembly out of
copper. Pex is cheaper. But when it comes to install, that copper
really makes things easy.
What I'm trying to do is get very solid measurements (especially
backers) that I can give to the framers. Let the framers put in the
backers. Let the framers frame behind the shower the RIGHT way instead
of putting a stud dead-center of our valve. We're plumbers. We don't
carry framing tools on our truck.
Two things that will make your jobs go much faster. One, let the
framer frame to your specs so you don't have to fuck with backers and
you don't have to fuck with moving studs (and then adding studs when
moving a stud causes the framing to deviate from code). Two, have the
guy digging the footings to go ahead and use his transit to dig your
sewer line (and even a graded trench (based on where you tell him to
dig). That way, you'll never have dig gravel or fight with the french
drain or knock a hole through the foundation again. It will also save
you the cost of a 2nd backhoe trip out there. Since he's digging with
a transit, you'll never stand in a ditch with a shovel trying to get
grade, and you'll never have a contractor freaking out on you because
he wants to landscape or pour the sidewalk. In addition, when it comes
time to test your water lines and sewer, all you have to do is turn
the water on and fill most of the DWV right at the tub. Also, you use
city water to charge the pipes (so instead of pumping air from
0-100lbs for your test, you start the test at around 70-80lbs. Not
only does it save you time on pulling hoses and testing, since you are
mostly charged with water, it makes it very easy to find a leak. (you
ever tried to LISTEN for a leak when you have nailguns and other
tradesmen). Do it my way and all you have to do is look for the drip.
If you dont' see the drip, come back a little later and look for the