Grizzly G0555 owner's manual: Section 4: operations

SECTION 4: OPERATIONS

Operation Overview

The purpose of this overview is to provide the novice machine operator with a basic understanding of how the machine is used during operation, so the machine controls/components discussed later in this manual are easier to understand.

Due to the generic nature of this overview, it is not intended to be an instructional guide. To learn more about specific operations, read this entire manual, seek additional training from experienced machine operators, and do additional research outside of this manual by reading "how-to" books, trade magazines, or websites.

WARNING
To reduce your risk of serious injury, read this entire manual BEFORE using machine.

WARNING
To reduce risk of eye injury from flying chips or lung damage from breathing dust, always wear safety glasses and a respirator when operating this machine.

NOTICE
If you are not experienced with this type of machine, WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you seek additional training outside of this manual. Read books/magazines or get formal training before beginning any projects. Regardless of the content in this section, Grizzly Industrial will not be held liable for accidents caused by lack of training.

To complete a typical operation, the operator does the following:

1. Examines workpiece to make sure it is suitable for cutting.

2. Adjusts table tilt, if necessary, to correct angle of desired cut.

3. If using fence, adjusts it for width of cut and then locks it in place. If using miter gauge, adjusts angle and locks it in place.

4. Loosens guide post lock knob, adjusts the upper blade guide height to just clear workpiece (no more than 1/4"), then re-tightens guide post lock knob.

5. Checks to make sure workpiece can safely pass all the way through blade without interference from other objects.

6. Puts on safety glasses and a respirator.

7. Starts dust collector, then bandsaw.

8. Holds workpiece firmly and flatly against both table and fence (or miter gauge), and then pushes workpiece into blade at a steady and controlled rate until cut is complete.

   The operator is very careful to keep fingers away from blade and uses a push stick to feed narrow workpieces.

9. Stops bandsaw, then dust collector.

Disabling & Locking Switch

The ON/OFF switch can be disabled and locked by inserting a padlock through the ON button, as shown. Locking the switch in this manner can prevent unauthorized operation of the machine, which is especially important if the machine is not stored inside an access-restricted building.

IMPORTANT: Locking the switch with a padlock only restricts its function. It is not a substitute for disconnecting power from the machine when adjusting or servicing.

Figure 40. Switch disabled by a padlock (sold separately).

WARNING
Children or untrained people can be seriously injured by this machine. This risk increases with unsupervised operation. To help prevent unsupervised operation, disable and lock the switch before leaving machine unattended! Place key in a well-hidden or secure location.

NOTICE
The padlock shaft diameter is important to the disabling function of the switch. With any padlock used to lock the switch, test the switch after installation to ensure that it is properly disabled.

Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

Workpiece Inspection

Some workpieces are not safe to cut or may require modification before they are safe to cut. Before cutting, inspect all workpieces for the following:

• Material Type: This machine is intended for cutting natural and man-made wood products, laminate covered wood products, and some plastics. Cutting drywall or cementitious backer board creates extremely fine dust and may reduce the life of the bearings. This machine is NOT designed to cut metal, glass, stone, tile, etc.; cutting these materials with a table saw may lead to injury.

• Foreign Objects: Nails, staples, dirt, rocks and other foreign objects are often embedded in wood. While cutting, these objects can become dislodged and hit the operator, cause kickback, or break the blade, which might then fly apart. Always visually inspect your workpiece for these items. If they can't be removed, DO NOT cut the workpiece.

• Large/Loose Knots: Loose knots can become dislodged during the cutting operation. Large knots can cause kickback and machine damage. Choose workpieces that do not have large/loose knots or plan ahead to avoid cutting through them.

• Wet or "Green" Stock: Cutting wood with a moisture content over 20% causes unnecessary wear on the blades, increases the risk of kickback, and yields poor results.

• Excessive Warping: Workpieces with excessive cupping, bowing, or twisting are dangerous to cut because they are unstable and often unpredictable when being cut. DO NOT use workpieces with these characteristics!

• Minor Warping: Workpieces with slight cupping can be safely supported if the cupped side is facing the table or the fence. On the contrary, a workpiece supported on the bowed side will rock during a cut and could cause kickback or severe injury.

Guide Post

The guide post, shown in the figure below, connects the upper blade guide assembly and blade guard to the bandsaw.

The guidepost allows these components to be positioned above the workpiece at a distance that provides the greatest support to the blade and minimizes operator exposure to the blade. We recommend positioning the blade guides so that they just clear the workpiece.

Figure 41. Guide post and lock knob.

To adjust the height of the guide post:

1. Make sure that the blade tension, blade tracking, support bearings, and blade guide bearings are adjusted correctly.
2. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
3. Loosen the guide post lock knob, then adjust the height of the guide post so that the blade guide assembly just clears the workpiece.
4. Re-tighten the lock knob to secure the setting.

Table Tilt

The table can be tilted when making angle or bevel cuts.

Note: When tilting the table to the left, the positive stop bolt must be lowered. Be sure to re-adjust it when returning the table to be perpendicular with the blade.

To tilt the table:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Loosen both table lock knobs underneath the table.
3. Use the table tilt scale underneath the front of the table or a protractor against the table and blade to tilt the table to the desired degree, then re-tighten the lock knobs.

Blade Speed

The Model G0555 offers blade speeds of 1690 and 2950 FPM. For general woodworking and most cutting operations, we recommend using the 2950 FPM speed. Keep in mind, the results from different speeds are related to the type of workpiece, the blade being used for the operation, and the feed rate.

Use the chart below as a general guide to blade speed:

Speed changes are made by re-positioning the ribbed V-belt on the pulleys.

Tools Needed

• Hex Wrench 6mm ........ 1

To change the blade speed:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Open the lower wheel cover and loosen the motor mount adjustment and hinge cap screws shown in Figure 42.

Figure 42. Locations of the motor adjustment and hinge cap screws.

3. Move the motor so that the adjustment cap screw slides to the right of the slot. This will release the tension on the ribbed V-belt.
4. Position the V-belt on the pulleys as illustrated in Figure 43 for the desired speed.

Note: Make sure the ribs of the V-belt are well seated in the pulley grooves.

Figure 43. Drive belt position for the different speeds.

5. Move the motor so that the adjustment cap screw slides to the left of the slot.
6. Apply enough pressure on the motor so that there is approximately 1/4" deflection of the V-belt with moderate pressure from your finger between the pulleys, then re-tighten the adjustment and hinge cap screws.
7. Close the lower wheel cover before re-connecting the bandsaw to power.

Blade Information

Blade Dimensions

• Length Range ........ 92-1/2"–93-1/2"
• Width Range ........ 1/8"–3/4"

Selecting the right blade requires a knowledge of the various blade characteristics to match the blade with the particular cutting operation.

Blade Length

Measured by the circumference, blade lengths are usually unique to the brand of your bandsaw and the distance between wheels. Refer to the Accessories section later in this manual for blade replacements from Grizzly.

Blade Width

Measured from the back of the blade to the tip of the blade tooth (the widest point), blade width is often the first consideration given to blade selection. Blade width dictates the largest and smallest curve that can be cut, as well as how accurately it can cut a straight line.

Always pick the size of blade that best suits your application.

• Curve Cutting: Use the chart in the figure below to determine the correct blade for curve cutting. Determine the smallest radius curve that will be cut on your workpiece and use the corresponding blade width.

Figure 44. Recommended cutting radius per blade width.

• Straight Cutting: Use the largest width blade that you own. Large blades excel at cutting straight lines and are less prone to wander.

Tooth Style

The figure below illustrates the three main blade tooth styles:

Figure 45. Main blade tooth styles.

• Raker: Considered to be the standard because the tooth size and shape are the same as the tooth gullet. The teeth on raker blades usually are very numerous, have no angle, and produce cuts by scraping the material. As a result, smooth cuts can be achieved without cutting fast or generating more heat than other tooth types.
• Skip: Similar to a raker blade that is missing every other tooth. Because of the design, skip toothed blades have a much larger gullet than raker blades, and therefore, cut faster and generate less heat. However, these blades also leave a rougher cut than raker blades.
• Hook: The teeth have a positive angle (downward) which makes them dig into the material, and the gullets are usually rounded for easier waste removal. These blades are excellent for the tough demands of resawing and ripping thick material.

Tooth Pitch

Measured as TPI (teeth per inch), tooth pitch determines the number of teeth. More teeth per inch (fine pitch) will cut slower, but smoother; while fewer teeth per inch (coarse pitch) will cut rougher, but faster. As a general rule, choose blades that will have at least three teeth in the material at all times. Use fine-pitched blades on harder woods and coarse-pitched blades on softer woods.

Blade Care

A bandsaw blade is a thin piece of steel that is subjected to tremendous stresses when cutting. You can obtain longer use from a bandsaw blade if you give it fair treatment and always use the appropriate feed rate for your operation. Be sure to select blades with the proper width, style, and pitch for each application. The wrong choice of blades will often produce unnecessary heat which will shorten the life of your blade.

A clean blade will perform much better than a dirty blade. Dirty or gummed up blades pass through the cutting material with much more resistance than clean blades. This extra resistance also causes unnecessary heat. Resin/pitch cleaners are excellent for cleaning dirty blades.

Blade Breakage

Many conditions may cause a bandsaw blade to break. Blade breakage is unavoidable, in some cases, since it is the natural result of the peculiar stresses that bandsaw blades are subjected to. Blade breakage is also due to avoidable circumstances. Avoidable breakage is most often the result of poor care or judgement on the part of the operator when mounting or adjusting the blade or blade guides.

The most common causes of blade breakage are:

• Faulty alignment/adjustment of the guides.
• Forcing/twisting a wide blade around a short radius.
• Feeding the workpiece too fast.
• Dull teeth or damaged tooth set.
• Over-tensioned blade.
• Upper blade guide assembly set too high above the workpiece.
• Using a blade with a lumpy or improperly finished braze or weld.
• Continuously running the bandsaw when not in use.
• Leaving blade tensioned when not in use.
• Using the wrong TPI for the workpiece thickness. (The general rule of thumb is three teeth in the workpiece at all times.)

Blade Change

Disconnect bandsaw from power BEFORE changing blade. Serious personal injury could occur if machine is started during this procedure.

!">!CAUTION LACERATION HAZARD! Bandsaw blades are sharp and difficult to handle. Wear heavy leather gloves while handling to reduce the risk of being cut.

Blade Removal

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Move the blade tension quick release lever up to release blade tension.
3. Adjust the upper blade guide assembly all the way up and move the blade guides completely away from the blade.
4. Remove the fence and miter gauge from the table, then remove the table insert and the table pin.
5. Open the upper and lower wheel covers.
6. Put on heavy leather gloves, then slip the blade off the wheels, rotate it 90°, and slide it through the table slot and off the machine.

Blade Installation

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Perform Steps 2–6 in the previous Blade Removal procedure.
3. Put on heavy leather gloves, position the blade so that the teeth are facing to the right and down toward the table, then slide it through the table slot.

Note: If the teeth will not point downward in any orientation, the blade is inside-out. Remove the blade and twist it right side-out.

4. Rotate the blade 90°, then slip it over the wheels while making sure it is properly positioned between the blade guards and guides.
5. Use the blade tension adjustment knob to bring the red marker to the correct blade width mark on the tension scale, then pull the blade tension quick release lever down to the horizontal position.

— If you are having difficulty pulling the quick release lever down or the blade is a different length from the previous blade, adjust the blade tensioner as instructed in the Blade Tensioner subsection on Page 51. Then, continue with Step 6.

— If you successfully pull the quick release lever down and the blade is properly tensioned, continue with Step 6.

6. Check and adjust the blade tracking.
7. Adjust the support bearings and the upper/ lower blade guides.
8. Close the wheel covers, and replace the table insert and table pin.

Basic Cutting Tips

Here are some basic tips to follow when operating the bandsaw:

• Replace, sharpen, and clean blades as necessary. Make adjustments periodically to keep the saw running in top condition.
• Use light and even pressure while cutting. Light contact with the blade eases line following and prevents undue friction.
• Avoid twisting the blade when cutting around tight corners. Allow the blade to saw around the corners.
• Misusing the saw or using incorrect techniques is unsafe and results in poor cuts. Remember—the blade does the cutting with the operator's guidance.

Cutting Options

The bandsaw is capable of performing the following cuts:

• Miters
• Angles
• Resaw
• Ripping
• Crosscutting
• Compound Angles
• Complex Curves
• Duplicate Parts
• Circles
• Beveled Curves

Ripping

"Ripping" means cutting with the grain of the wood stock. For plywood and other processed wood, ripping simply means cutting down the length of the workpiece. Beveled rip cuts may be performed by tilting the table.

To make a rip cut:

1. Adjust fence to match width of cut on your workpiece, then lock fence in place.
2. Adjust blade guide assembly to proper height above workpiece.
3. After all safety precautions have been met, turn bandsaw ON and wait for it to come to full speed. Slowly feed workpiece into blade until blade is completely through workpiece. The figure below shows an example of a ripping operation.

Figure 46. Example of a ripping operation.

WARNING ALWAYS use a push stick when ripping narrow pieces. Failure to follow these warnings may result in amputation or laceration injuries!

WARNING NEVER place fingers or hands in the line of cut. If you slip, your hands or fingers may go into the blade and may be cut.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is the process of cutting across the grain of wood. For plywood and other processed wood, crosscutting simply means cutting across the width of the material. Crosscuts can be 90° or angled using the miter gauge. Compound cross-cuts are those where the miter is angled and the table tilted.

To make a crosscut:

1. Mark workpiece on edge where you want to begin cut.
2. Adjust the blade guide assembly to the correct height.
3. Adjust the miter gauge to the correct angle needed for cut.
4. Move fence out of the way. Place workpiece evenly against miter gauge, then line up mark with blade.
5. After all safety precautions have been met, turn bandsaw ON and wait for it to come to full speed. Slowly feed workpiece into the blade until blade is all the way through workpiece. The figure below shows an example of a crosscutting operation.

Figure 47. Example of a crosscutting operation with the miter gauge.

Resawing

"Resawing" means cutting the thickness of a board into two or more thinner boards (see the figure below for an example). The maximum height of a board that can be resawn is limited by the maximum cutting height of the bandsaw.

Figure 48. Example of a resawing operation.

One of the most important considerations for resawing is blade selection—a wide blade cuts straighter and is less prone to blade lead (see the Blade Lead subsection later in this manual for more information).

For most applications, use a blade with a hook or a skip tooth style. Choose blades with fewer teeth-per-inch (from 3 to 6 TPI), because they offer larger gullet capacities for clearing sawdust, which reduces heat buildup and strain on the motor.

⚠WARNING

When resawing thin pieces, a wandering blade (blade lead) can tear through the side of the workpiece, exposing your hands to the blade teeth. Always use push blocks when resawing and keep your hands clear of the blade.

Cutting Curves

When cutting curves, simultaneously feed and turn the stock carefully so that the blade follows the layout line without twisting. Use either a narrower blade or a blade with more TPI (teeth per inch), or make more relief cuts, to avoid having to back the workpiece away from the blade, especially if the curve is sharp.

Always make short cuts first, then proceed to the longer cuts. Relief cuts will also reduce the chance that the blade will be pinched or twisted. Relief cuts are cuts made through the waste portion of the workpiece and are stopped at the layout line. As you cut along the layout line, waste wood is released from the workpiece, alleviating any pressure on the back of the blade. Relief cuts also make backing the workpiece out easier once the saw blade has come to a stop, if needed.

NOTICE

The list below displays blade widths and the corresponding minimum radii for those blade widths.

Stacked Cuts

One of the benefits of a bandsaw is its ability to cut multiple copies of a particular shape by stacking a number of workpieces together. Before making stacked cuts, ensure that the table is perpendicular (90°) to the blade—otherwise, any error in this setting will be compounded in the upper workpieces.

To complete a stacked cut:

1. Align your pieces from top to bottom to ensure that each piece has adequate scrap to provide a clean, unhampered cut.

2. Secure all the pieces together in a manner that will not interfere with the cutting. Hot glue on the edges works well, as do brad nails through the waste portion. (Be careful not to cut into the brads or you may break the blade!)

3. On the face of the top piece, lay out the shape you intend to cut.

4. Make relief cuts perpendicular to the outline of your intended shape in areas where changes in blade direction could strain the woodgrain or cause the blade to bind.

5. Cut the stack of pieces as though you were cutting a single piece. Follow your layout line with the blade kerf on the waste side of your line (see the figure below for an example of stacked cut setup).

Figure 49. Example of a stacked cut setup.

SECTION 5: ACCESSORIES

WARNING

Installing unapproved accessories may cause machine to malfunction, resulting in serious personal injury or machine damage. To reduce this risk, only install accessories recommended for this machine by Grizzly.

NOTICE

Refer to our website or latest catalog for additional recommended accessories.

Grizzly 93-1/2" Bandsaw Blades

H7584—Resaw Fence Retrofit Kit

This retrofit kit allows you to upgrade your existing aluminum fence for the G0555 bandsaw to a cast-iron fence with the 6" high resaw fence. Simply unbolt your existing aluminum fence (4 bolts) and bolt on the new cast-iron fence. Takes less than 3 minutes to switch over.

Figure 50. H7584 Resaw Fence Retrofit Kit for the G0555 bandsaw.

H3051—6" Extension Block Kit for G0555

Increase cutting capacity from 6" to 12" with this bolt-on 6" extension block kit. Includes extended blade guard and 105" x 3/8" x 6 TPI blade.

Figure 51. H3051 Extension Block Kit.

order online at www.grizzly.com or call 1-800-523-4777

SECTION 6: MAINTENANCE

Schedule

For optimum performance from this machine, this maintenance schedule must be strictly followed.

Ongoing

To minimize your risk of injury and maintain proper machine operation, shut down the machine immediately if you ever observe any of the items below, and fix the problem before continuing operations:

• Loose mounting bolts.
• Damaged saw blade.
• Worn or damaged wires.
• Any other unsafe condition.

Monthly Check

• V-belt tension, damage, or wear.
• Remove blade and clean sawdust on wheels and rubber tires.
• Clean/vacuum dust buildup off cabinet and motor.

Cleaning & Protecting

Cleaning the bandsaw is relatively easy. Vacuum away excess wood chips and sawdust, and wipe off the remaining dust with a dry cloth. If any resin has built up, use a resin dissolving cleaner to remove it.

Protect the unpainted cast iron surfaces on the table by wiping the table clean after every use—this ensures moisture from wood dust does not remain on bare metal surfaces.

Keep the table rust-free with regular applications of products like SLIPIT®.

Recommended Metal Protectants

G5562—SLIPIT® 1 Qt. Gel G5563—SLIPIT® 11 Oz. Spray

Figure 52. Recommended products for protecting unpainted cast iron/steel parts on machinery.

Lubrication

The bearings on this bandsaw are pre-lubricated and sealed at the factory, and require no lubrication for the life of the bearings. All bearings are standard sizes, and replacements can be purchased from our parts department or a bearing supply store.

As for other items on this machine, such as adjustment controls, an occasional “shot” of light oil is just about all that is necessary. Before applying, however, wipe off any sawdust with a clean cloth, towel or dry paint brush, then spray on the lubricant.

Ensure that lubricant does not get on the pulleys or V-belt, which could cause V-belt deterioration or loss of power transfer due to slippage.

Redressing Rubber Tires

As the bandsaw ages, the rubber tires on the wheels may need to be redressed if they harden or glaze over. Redressing the rubber tires improves blade tracking and reduces vibration/blade lead.

If the rubber tires become too worn, then blade tracking will become extremely difficult. At that point, redressing will no longer be effective and the rubber tires must be replaced.

To redress the rubber tires:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Put on heavy leather gloves.
3. Remove the blade.
4. Clean any built-up sawdust from the rubber tires and wheels.
5. Hold 100-grit sandpaper against the rubber tire and rotate the wheel by hand. Only redress the rubber enough to expose a fresh rubber surface.
6. Re-install the blade, then make sure the blade tracking and tension are correct.

-42- Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

SECTION 7: SERVICE

Review the troubleshooting procedures in this section if a problem develops with your machine. If you need replacement parts or additional help with a procedure, call our Technical Support. Note: Please gather the serial number and manufacture date of your machine before calling.

Troubleshooting

Motor & Electrical

Operations

Miscellaneous

Model G0555 (Mfd. Since □/□□)

V-Belt Tension

To ensure optimum power transmission from the motor to the blade, the V-belt must be in good condition and operate under proper tension.

V-belt tension should be checked at least every month—more often if the bandsaw is used daily. If the belt shows signs of cracks, fraying, and excessive wear, replace it as instructed in the Service section later in this manual.

Checking V-Belt Tension

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!

2. Open the lower wheel cover.

3. The V-belt is properly tensioned if there is approximately 1/4" deflection of the V-belt when you apply moderate pressure to it between the pulleys (see the illustration in the following figure).

   — If the V-belt is not properly tensioned, perform the following Tensioning V-Belt procedure.

Figure 53. Checking the V-belt tension.

Tensioning V-Belt

Tool Needed

• Hex Wrench 6mm ........ 1

To properly tension the V-belt:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Open the lower wheel cover and loosen the motor adjustment and hinge cap screws shown in Figure 54.

Figure 54. Locations of the motor adjustment and hinge cap screws.

3. Push the motor to the left (as viewed from the front of the machine) until there is approximately 1/4" deflection in the V-belt between the pulley when moderate pressure is applied.
4. Re-tighten both cap screws and close the wheel cover.

Replacing V-Belt

To ensure optimum power transmission from the motor to the blade, the V-belt must be in good condition and operate under proper tension.

If the belt shows signs of cracks, fraying, and excessive wear, replace it.

Tools Needed

To replace the V-belt:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Put on heavy leather gloves and remove the blade from the machine.
3. Loosen the motor adjustment and hinge cap screws shown in Figure 55.

Figure 55. Locations of the wheel mount bolt, and motor adjustment and hinge cap screws.

4. Move the motor to the right (as viewed from the front of the bandsaw) so that the adjustment cap screw slides to the right in the slot—this will release the V-belt tension.
5. Roll the V-belt off the pulleys.
6. Unthread the wheel mount bolt clockwise (left-hand thread), and remove it and the flat washer from the wheel hub.
7. Taking care not to misplace the shaft key, slide the wheel from the shaft.
8. Align the wheel keyway with the shaft key and slide the wheel back onto the shaft.
9. Secure the wheel with the wheel mount bolt and flat washer.
10. Position the V-belt on the desired pulleys, then properly tension it, as instructed in the V-Belt Tension subsection on Page 45.
11. Replace the blade, then properly track and tension it (see Pages 21 and 24).

Shimming Table

To ensure accuracy when cutting stacked cuts or circles, the table must be 90° to the back of the blade, as shown in the figure below.

Figure 56. Checking the table to be perpendicular to the back of the blade.

If the table is not perpendicular to the back of the blade, correct this condition by placing shim stock between the table and trunnions underneath it.

Tip: For fine adjustments, use electrical washers on the bolts that secure the table.

Wheel Alignment

Wheel alignment is one of the most critical factors for optimal performance from your bandsaw. Wheels are properly aligned when they are parallel with each other and in the same plane or “coplanar” (see the illustration in the figure to the right).

Heat, vibration, wandering, blade wear, tire wear and overall bandsaw wear are considerably decreased when the wheels are parallel and coplanar. Additionally, wheels that are parallel and coplanar automatically track the blade by balancing it on the crown of the wheel—this is known as “coplanar tracking.”

Bringing the wheel into alignment may require a combination of shimming a wheel and center/lateral tracking the upper blade.

Tools Needed

Checking Wheel Alignment

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Remove the table.
3. With the blade on and properly tensioned, hold a straightedge close to the center of both wheels. Make sure the straightedge fully extends across the rims of both wheels, as shown in the figure below.

Figure 57. Checking if the wheels are coplanar.

Figure 58. Wheel alignment illustration.

— If the wheels are parallel and coplanar, the straightedge will touch the top and bottom rims on both wheels. No further adjustment is required.

— If the wheels are parallel but not coplanar, the straightedge will touch the top and bottom rims on one wheel, but will not touch either rim on the other wheel. In this case, shim the wheel that does not touch the straightedge, as instructed in the following Shimming a Wheel procedure.

— If the wheels are not coplanar, the straightedge will touch both rims of one wheel, but at an angle to the other wheel. In this case, you will need to adjust the tracking of the upper wheel.

If the upper wheel is tilted from top to bottom only, perform the Center Blade Tracking procedure as instructed earlier in this manual.

If the upper wheel is tilted from side to side, perform Upper Wheel Lateral Adjustment procedure that follows.

Shimming a Wheel

A wheel that is parallel with the other wheel, but is not coplanar, must be shimmed by the distance that it is not in the same plane with the other wheel.

To shim a wheel:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Adjust the upper wheel tracking so that it is parallel with the bottom wheel.
3. With the straightedge touching both rims of the wheel that does not need to be adjusted, measure the distance away from the other wheel with a fine ruler, as shown in the figure below. The distance measured with the ruler is the distance this wheel must be shimmed.

Figure 59. Measuring the distance to shim the wheel to be coplanar.

4. Remove the wheel to be shimmed, then place shimming washers in the amount measured in Step 3 onto the wheel shaft.
5. Re-install the wheel and secure it in place.
6. Re-install the blade, then properly tension it for operation.

Note: Often the wheels may be coplanar with the blade loose, then be pulled out of alignment when it is tightened.

7. Perform the previous Checking Wheel Alignment procedure. If necessary to make the wheels parallel, repeat this procedure.
8. When you are satisfied with the adjustment, re-install the blade and close the wheel covers.

Upper Wheel Lateral Adjustment

If the upper wheel is tilted laterally (side to side), perform the following procedure to make it coplanar with the lower wheel.

There are two set screws in the upper wheel bracket, shown in Figures 60–61, that adjust the wheel tilt from side to side.

Figure 60. Front lateral adjustment set screw (viewed with the upper wheel removed).

Figure 61. Rear lateral adjustment set screw.

Tools Needed Qty

• Hex Wrench 2.5mm ........ 1
• Wrench or Socket 19mm ........ 1

To adjust the upper wheel laterally:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Remove the blade from the machine.
3. Remove the hex nut that secures the upper wheel, then slide the wheel from the shaft.
4. Thread one set screw out and thread the other set screw in the same amount to tilt the wheel laterally.

For instance, to tilt the right side of the upper wheel back, thread the rear set screw out and thread the front set screw in the same amount.

5. Slide the upper wheel back on the shaft, then repeat the Checking Wheel Alignment procedure and, if necessary, repeat this procedure until the upper wheel is coplanar with the lower wheel.

Blade Lead

Bandsaw blades may wander off the cut line when sawing, as shown in the figure below. This is called blade lead.

Blade lead is usually caused by too fast of a feed rate, a dull or abused blade, or improper blade tension. If your blade is sharp/undamaged, properly tensioned, and you still have blade lead, perform the following procedures.

Figure 62. Example of blade lead.

Correcting Blade Lead

1. Make sure the blade is properly tensioned and the blade guides are adjusted correctly.
2. Use less pressure when feeding the workpiece through the cut—this will reduce the feed rate.
3. Make sure the miter slot and fence are parallel to the blade line (see the Aligning Table and Aligning Fence procedures in this manual for detailed information).
4. If after Steps 1–3 there is still blade lead present, compensate for this condition by skewing the fence or shifting the table, as instructed in the following procedures.

Skewing the Fence

1. Cut a piece of scrap wood approximately 3/4" thick x 3" wide x 17" long. On the wide face of the board, draw a straight line parallel to the long edge.
2. Slide the bandsaw fence out of the way and cut halfway through the board on the line by pushing it into the blade. Turn the bandsaw OFF and wait for the blade to stop. Do not move the board.
3. Clamp the board to the bandsaw table, then slide the fence over to the board so it barely touches one end of the board.
4. Use a 4mm hex wrench to loosen the four fence adjustment cap screws on top of the fence, skew the fence so that it is parallel with the scrap piece, then re-tighten the cap screws.
5. Make a few cuts using the fence. — If blade lead is still present, repeat Steps 1–4 until the blade and fence are parallel with each other. — Or, shift the table, as instructed in the following procedure.

Shifting the Table

1. On a scrap piece of wood, mark a line that is perpendicular to the front edge.
2. Cut halfway through the board on the line by pushing it into the blade.
3. Turn the bandsaw OFF and wait for the blade to stop.
4. Disconnect the bandsaw from power, then use a 10mm wrench to loosen the six hex bolts underneath the table that secure it to the trunnion brackets.
5. Shift the table to compensate for the blade lead, re-tighten the hex bolts, then re-connect the bandsaw to power.
6. Repeat Steps 1–5 until there is no longer any blade lead.

-50- Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

Blade Tensioner

The blade tensioner may need to be reset for one of the following reasons:

• The blade tension quick release lever will not move down into the horizontal position when the tension scale is correctly adjusted for the installed blade.
• You have installed a blade of a different length.

Tool Needed Qty

• Hex Wrench 2.5mm ........ 1

To reset the blade tensioner:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Move the blade tension lever up to the vertical position to release blade tension, then loosen the set screws on both spacers shown in Figure 63.

Figure 63. Locations of spacers and tensioner crossbar.

3. Rotate the spacers fully away from the crossbar, then rotate the blade tension knob so that the red marker is at the blade width mark for the installed blade.
4. Pull the quick release lever down to the horizontal position.
5. Pull up on the tension knob to apply as much tension on the blade as possible.
6. While maintaining the upward pressure on the tension knob, thread the upper spacer down until it touches the crossbar, then re-tighten the set screw to secure it in place.
7. Thread the lower spacer down until it touches the top of the tensioner casting, then thread it back up 1–2 turns to leave a small space above the casting and re-tighten the set screw to secure the setting.
8. Move the quick release lever up to the vertical position and make sure there is no tension on the blade. If all the tension is not released, the lower spacer needs to be threaded farther down the shaft toward the tensioner casting.

Fence Scale Calibration

You may need to recalibrate the fence scale after changing or adjusting the blade, or if the scale is not producing accurate cuts. Recalibrate the fence scale by adjusting the hairline indicator on the fence and testing your adjustment by cutting a piece of scrap wood.

Tools Needed

• Phillips Screwdriver #1 ........ 1

To calibrate the scale:

1. Set the fence anywhere along the scale and locate a piece of scrap wood with at least one straight edge.

   Note: Joint the edge with a jointer if needed to make the edge straight.

2. Hold the straight edge of the workpiece firmly against the fence, and feed the workpiece through the saw blade with a push stick.

3. Measure the width of the cut workpiece. The width of the workpiece should match the reading on the fence scale.

4. If the reading on the scale is not the same as the width of the cut workpiece, loosen the two screws on the magnifying window (see Figure 64) and adjust it to match the width of the cut workpiece.

Figure 64. Fence scale window and screws.

5. Re-tighten the screws—the scale is now correctly calibrated.

SECTION 8: WIRING

These pages are current at the time of printing. However, in the spirit of improvement, we may make changes to the electrical systems of future machines. Compare the manufacture date of your machine to the one stated in this manual, and study this section carefully.

If there are differences between your machine and what is shown in this section, call Technical Support at (570) 546-9663 for assistance BEFORE making any changes to the wiring on your machine. An updated wiring diagram may be available. Note: Please gather the serial number and manufacture date of your machine before calling. This information can be found on the main machine label.

WARNING

Wiring Safety Instructions

SHOCK HAZARD. Working on wiring that is connected to a power source is extremely dangerous. Touching electrified parts will result in personal injury including but not limited to severe burns, electrocution, or death. Disconnect the power from the machine before servicing electrical components!

MODIFICATIONS. Modifying the wiring beyond what is shown in the diagram may lead to unpredictable results, including serious injury or fire. This includes the installation of unapproved aftermarket parts.

WIRE CONNECTIONS. All connections must be tight to prevent wires from loosening during machine operation. Double-check all wires disconnected or connected during any wiring task to ensure tight connections.

CIRCUIT REQUIREMENTS. You MUST follow the requirements at the beginning of this manual when connecting your machine to a power source.

WIRE/COMPONENT DAMAGE. Damaged wires or components increase the risk of serious personal injury, fire, or machine damage. If you notice that any wires or components are damaged while performing a wiring task, replace those wires or components.

MOTOR WIRING. The motor wiring shown in these diagrams is current at the time of printing but may not match your machine. If you find this to be the case, use the wiring diagram inside the motor junction box.

CAPACITORS/INVERTERS. Some capacitors and power inverters store an electrical charge for up to 10 minutes after being disconnected from the power source. To reduce the risk of being shocked, wait at least this long before working on capacitors.

EXPERIENCING DIFFICULTIES. If you are experiencing difficulties understanding the information included in this section, contact our Technical Support at (570) 546-9663.

NOTICE

The photos and diagrams included in this section are best viewed in color. You can view these pages in color at www.grizzly.com.

COLOR KEY

Wiring Diagram

Figure 65. Motor and ON/OFF switch locations.

-54- STOP READ ELECTRICAL SAFETY ON PAGE 53! Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

SECTION 9: PARTS

We do our best to stock replacement parts when possible, but we cannot guarantee that all parts shown are available for purchase. Call (800) 523-4777 or visit www.grizzly.com/parts to check for availability.

Main

BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM! Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store.

Main Parts List

-56- BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM! Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store.

Main Parts List (Cont.)

Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM! Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store.

Stand

BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM!
Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store.

Fence

BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM! Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store. -59-

Labels & Cosmetics

WARNING

Safety labels help reduce the risk of serious injury caused by machine hazards. If any label comes off or becomes unreadable, the owner of this machine MUST replace it in the original location before resuming operations. For replacements, contact (800) 523-4777 or www.grizzly.com.

-60- BUY PARTS ONLINE AT GRIZZLY.COM! Scan QR code to visit our Parts Store. Model G0555 (Mfd. Since 5/11)

WARRANTY & RETURNS

Grizzly Industrial, Inc. warrants every product it sells for a period of 1 year to the original purchaser from the date of purchase. This warranty does not apply to defects due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence, accidents, repairs or alterations or lack of maintenance. This is Grizzly’s sole written warranty and any and all warranties that may be implied by law, including any merchantability or fitness, for any particular purpose, are hereby limited to the duration of this written warranty. We do not warrant or represent that the merchandise complies with the provisions of any law or acts unless the manufacturer so warrants. In no event shall Grizzly’s liability under this warranty exceed the purchase price paid for the product and any legal actions brought against Grizzly shall be tried in the State of Washington, County of Whatcom.

We shall in no event be liable for death, injuries to persons or property or for incidental, contingent, special, or consequential damages arising from the use of our products.

The manufacturers reserve the right to change specifications at any time because they constantly strive to achieve better quality equipment. We make every effort to ensure that our products meet high quality and durability standards and we hope you never need to use this warranty.

In the event you need to use this warranty, contact us by mail or phone and give us all the details. We will then issue you a “Return Number,” which must be clearly posted on the outside as well as the inside of the carton. We will not accept any item back without this number. Proof of purchase must accompany the merchandise.

Please feel free to write or call us if you have any questions about the machine or the manual.

Thank you again for your business and continued support. We hope to serve you again soon.

For further information about the warranty, visit https://www.grizzly.com/forms/warranty or scan the QR code below to be automatically directed to our warranty page.

grizzly.com®

TOOL WEBSITE

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Visit Our Website Today For Current Specials!

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