Thanks. I htink that's what the article you provided was saying, but I wasn't sure. I'll do a little Googling and see if I can find out for sure. If it is the way we think it is, I'll probably just put one outlet in each room to avoid needing a main splitter with too many splits.
There is a lot more to this then just the splitter loss. You also get loss in the cable per 100 feet. You probably want to use RG-56 Triple shielded for less loss than RG-59. I also believe the loss on a splitter is the loss before anything is hooked to it. It's best to run home runs to each outlet but in your application you might want to run home runs to each unit then split. Like I said you will probably need an amp. where all these home runs come together. You're going to have a lot of loss. Sometimes the cable companies can change the face plate of the tap to gain you more RF or run a hard line into a central location and have the tap right there. Cable outfits will sometimes do this for free depending if they can justify the cost to revenue per unit.
My cable provider (rogers) did all the cable work for free, including splitters. My main line comes into a 3 way wideband 5-1000mhz) splitter with 1 3.3db and 2 7db taps. The 3.5 goes to a second 3 way wideband splitter. One 7 goes to the cable modem, and one to the digital TV box. From the second splitter, the 3.5 gos to the tv farthest from the splitter, the 2 7db taps go to the basement tv and the tuner card on my basement computer.
Both splitters are Regal model ZDS3DGH10 if that helps. All cabling is quad sheild commscope RG6.
The cable modem should really come out of the 3.5db port. You will notice better performance in your computer, also if you have VOIP phone service.
Does a hard wired home LAN make sense anymore? I did that when I moved into this house 10 years ago but WiFi would be my choice today. Heck, had to use WiFi to connect to a basement computer anyway.
If you have analog CATV now you should bear > I asked a question some time ago about Internet wiring. Since Iwill be
Is that anything like RG-6, which is easier to find around here?
Same thing.
No, because then you have 3.5+3.5 plus 4 connectors - each pair of which is something like 3.5db (total of ~14db) loss.for the digital tv. The cable tech that did the install explained why he did it this way - the cable modem is less than a foot from the splitter and the cable modem does not need as strong a signal as the digital box. The digital box has only 2 connectors and the splitter - and it and the modem both finally work just fine. With digital they don't reccomend wall jacks because the add another connector and its associated losses..
John Grabowski posted for all of us...
This is the BEST way fot Tv ask any competent cable guy. Also use a splitter rated for the bandwidth in use. Not the 19 bux special.
You should definitely put two outlets in each room (on opposite walls); I wish I'd done that. You don't have to make them all "active" -- just the ones that will actually be used. Run all of the wires to a central location, label them, and connect just the in-use ones. You'll thank yourself when you rearrange the furniture and just have to go change one connection at the central splitter (or, in my case, curse the fact that you didn't install an outlet on *that* side of the room).
Same with Cat5e/6 runs -- run them and leave them unconnected at the wiring hub until needed. I suspect you'll never sit around and wish you hadn't run a particular wire, but you will regret the one you decided not to run someday.
Josh
Makes sense. I think the only drawback may be that this will be pre-wiring for an apartment that I am doing over and that will be rented out to a tenant. If I put 2 outlets per room, I think I would need to make them both live because the tenant won't have access to the wiring hub area at will.
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