I am in the South. Winters are not really extreme. Probably some 4 or
so times it will get below 10, maybe a dozen or so nights it will get
down to 17-20. Example, as of now, Nov 29, we have not gotten below
I wish to winterize a house where the water and gas is off.
P-traps in sinks and toilets, etc. Is there any difference in RV
antifreeze and regular auto anti-freeze for that purpose. Pipes are
Water heater is drained by the bottom cock. At that I imagine there is
a little water left in the bottom.
Water lines are drained to the extent that they will by opening lowest
What else? How much anti-freeze per trap? Do I need to final flush the
toilets and drain the water closets or will auto antifreeze be safe in
there and in the bowls? (I need it to look as good as possible because
I am trying to sell the house)
dont use auto antifreeze if your on a septic tank.
If pipes can freeze I would blow down lines using compressed air and
add a security system to call for help if it gets too cold, or someone
plaster washing machines, dishwashers etc are also at risk.
freeze thaw cracks plaster bad
Likely they are dry then, I wouldn't worry. Again, adding a bit of RV AF
would let you sleep easier. Not sure if there are other steps to keep seals
fleixible, etc, during extended periods of non-use.
If the toilet/sink traps are dry, they are safe, although I would expect
some sewer gas smells back thru toilet if traps truly dry. You can do a
bucket flush - just pour a few pints of water into the toilet bowl to
trigger the "flush" of water thru the trap. Mix some RV AF with it and
you'll be good to well below freezing. If any water remains in back of
water closet, add some AF there too.
On Thu, 29 Nov 2007 11:39:46 -0800, in alt.home.repair, in thread Re:
Thanks. I have the toilets filled now for aesthetic reasons (buyers!)
and the water closets filled by bucket -- just to insure a good flush if
someone looking just *has* to use it. I will put anti-freeze in all.
Will put a little AF in the dishwasher drain just in case it is not dry.
With no small children or animals in the house, and no septic tank, I
will most likely use regular AF.
The problem with pipes is this: when water freezes, it expands. If there's
no room for the ice to expand, the ice often breaks its container (pipes).
If there is room for expansion (p-trap, toilet), there will be no harm.
I turned a dishwasher upside down once, at a friends home that had a
fire and no heat. we knew everything would freeze a amazing amount of
water came out of the fill lines and drain system.
so your trying to sell this house? it will sell easier if all
utilities are on, keep home at 50 above freezing. I too sold a vaant
home, thats what I was told.
certinally the first buyer will demand a home inspection, thats when
you will find out and have to fix whatever damage the freezing did.
it costs a bit more but i would keep the home running at a low level.
if you cant sell it rent it out, to help cover expenses
I have a cabin in Flagstaff AZ (elevation > 7000'), winter temps can
get below 0 occasionally. Here's my winter routine:
- TURN OFF WATER HEATER! Very important, forgot 1 time, ashed both
- Turn off water at curb.
- Connect compressor to outside hose bib.
- Open water heater drain valve.
- Turn on compressor, blow until water heater blows dry.
- Close water heater drain, open all house faucets, one at a time, let
- Flush all toilets to empty tank, letting air blow through toilet
- No dishwasher or washer, so can't advise you there.
- 1 cup antifreeze in all drains, 1-2 cups in toilet tanks and bowls.
Have always used RV antifreeze, half the price of automotive
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