By leaving doors open I meant interior doors, where you keep pets.
You dont state at what exterior temps you have 20-25%.
I have Pellas and the same BS issues, My Andersons do not condense but
all my glass is sealed dual pane Low E Argon. Im Zone 5 Chicago area.
If you have nonsealed, non argon, then yes they are even worse than
Poly should be UV resistant, exterior grade is UV resistant.
You might look for and try to fix any large water vapor sources, eg
a damp basement floor or walls or a rainwater leak. If you have no
major water vapor sources, you may have a fairly airtight house, which
is good :-) In many US houses (those requiring winter humidification),
air leaks account for more than half the fuel bills. If your house has
any exhaust fans, you might turn one on with a humidistat when the
indoor RH rises to 50% in wintertime.
That is strange. Perhaps you are measuring incorrectly. The dew point
of 20% RH 70 F (530 R) air is roughly 530/(1+530ln(0.2)/9621) = 487 R, ie
487-460 = 27 F. Outdoor air would have to be colder than 70 - 65R1 = 5 F
to make the indoor surface of an R1 window 27 F and condense water out of
20% 70 F room air. An R2 window would condense with 70-65x2 = minus 60 F
outdoor air, and so on.
Where? If the air pressure inside the house is lower than the air pressure
outside, outside air would enter the house. If the outside air is cold, it
probably contains less moisture than the air inside the house, so it would
have a drying effect. Same effect with windows that leak lots of air.
Your HVAC guy may have been clueless.
I think that you spent 10 paragraphs talking about your windows,
and the only parts of it that even resembled useful information was
"Humidity is around 50%", "The seals might not be good".
The bottom line is, you have two possible approaches,
either keep the water(humid air) away from the windows,
or make the window surfaces warmer.
Have you checked for actual air leaks?
Is this condensation over the entire window,
or just on parts? Which parts?
Are you sure that what you're getting
isn't water-leaks in the wall around the window?
Put a clear plastic seal over the entire window,
and see if it moves when the wind blows.
Put dessicant between the clear film and the
window, and that should solve the wetness issue,
because that will keep the WET and COLD separated.
Moving your hot-air supply directly in front
of the window or aiming a heat-lamp at them
would probably also work, by heating the window
surfaces above the dew-point.
Yes, with a stick of insence. I'd say that some of them are, based on
the direction of the smoke. But then again, it's hard to tell when
you're standing there breathing air and altering the flow of things.
When it's bad, it's just the bottom 3" of the glass, and the metal frame
of the glass. This in turn works it's way down between the window and
the window frame, and freezes on the window wood, on the frame where the
It's definatly water rolling down the window and into the opening
between the windo and the frame.
I've looked around to find a decent desiccant, usually silica packets,
but I'm having a hard time finding such things around here. Is there a
specific item or brand you had in mind?
Interestingly enough, almost all of my windows have heat registers
below, or right beside them on the outer walls od the rooms.
On Mon, 17 Oct 2005 14:04:09 -0400, "Christopher H. Laco"
A cloth "snake" stuffed with dried rice ought to work,
although you might have to change it periodically.
If the root of the problem is cold air leaking
around the bottom of the window and chilling the immediate
area to below the dew-point, that should help with that,
to, although adding weatherstripping or even taking
a hair-dryer to the rubber seals might work better.
Try cutting some dowels to jam between the top
of the window and the lower sash, to shove the thing
down harder against the sill, maybe?
You know, I've heard the one of the things Pella service tries
somethings is bending the sash clips to make the window fit tighter. The
one thing I've always felts was that the sash lock handles never did a
good job of drawing the window into the frame.
The experimentation has begun. I snagged some 1/4 weatherstripping and
did the worst window upstairs. I'll give it acouple days. When that
proves to be useless, I'll move on to the next thing: shrinkwraping that
Plenty of time to experiment between now and December 5th when the Pella
guy get's here.
The experiment continues. The weatherstripping didn't make a difference.
That rules out bad frame seal/air leak.
It did point out something interesting on that window, and possibly
others. As I mentioned before, it appears that condensation dripped down
the glass into the space between the fram/window, and froze on the
Well, in the early am during the peak condensation time, the frame and
weatherstripping was dry, but there was water on the metal sash below
that point when the window was opened. That's curious. There shouldn't
be wter there. Hopefully something will turn up when they inspect them
from the outside.
For my next trick, the plastic window wrap, and possibly leaving the
bedroom doors open (I'll have to get some pet/kid gates).
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