Weather forecast for this week is windy, gusts
up to 45 MPH, and also temps near zero F.
Will the wind chill make it more likely for me
to freeze pipes? Compared to still air?
When it's near zero F, and winds of 45 MPH,
should I leave a faucet dripping?
Would it be better to leave a hot drip, or a
What was the agreement, last time I asked? I think
we all on the list agreed about our answers.
I vaguely remember someone called me an idiot.
LOL. The point is to keep colder air out....a line of bales all around
the perimeter of the home would hold some of the heat lost from pipes
and floor inside the space, I presume. With faucets running slowly,
that would likely add at least more heat to the space than minus-degree
wind blowing through.
When I lived in a house on slab and without much insulation, the
prevailing north wind in winter made floors and walls at north end much
It was stated numerous times that water freezes at 32 degrees F
and if the temp is above 32F no matter what the wind chill is...
the temp is still above 32F and the pipes will not freeze.
Wind chill is nothing more than how the body perceives the temperature.
On Monday, January 20, 2014 8:16:11 AM UTC-5, philo wrote:
It's been stated numerous times that wind chill also affects how
heat is removed from any object that is above ambient temp.
And hence on a night when the
windchill is 5F and the actual outdoor temp is 25, pipes may freeze
in certain circumstances when they will not freeze if it were 25F
with no windchill.
Simple question. There is an unheated cabin or a house with
a drafty crawlspace. Two cases:
A - The forecast if for temps overnight to dip down to 25, no windchill.
B - The forecast is for temps overnight to dip down to 25, 5F windchill.
That's all the info you have.
Do you believe the probability of water pipes freezing is equal in
both cases, yes or no?
BTW, thanks for taking the obvious bait from Stormin and starting this all
On Monday, January 20, 2014 9:23:00 AM UTC-5, Bob_Villa wrote:
You failed the test. The question was about *freezing*, not bursting.
No, I only responded after philo decided to start this discussion
all over again. I saw the other responses and was going to say nothing
to start it up again, as did other posters. But if philo wants to
go over it again, then here we are.
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 06:23:00 -0800 (PST), Bob_Villa
How can that be. Water expands iirc between 33 and 32^F. So it
reaches its greatest volume at 32. What does 20 have to do with it?
I know that warmer things surrounding the water continue to heat the
water, but that's only if the things are warmer. They are losing heat
too for the same reason the water is.
On Monday, January 20, 2014 1:19:25 PM UTC-6, micky wrote:
r pipes to burst.
From the old post:
"This has nothing to do with wind chill...but it gives you pretty much the
magic number for a pipe to burst. From "The Weather Channel"!
When should homeowners be alert to the danger of freezing pipes? That depen
ds, but in southern states and other areas where freezing weather is the ex
ception rather than the rule (and where houses often do not provide adequat
e built-in protection), the temperature alert threshold is 20°F.
This threshold is based upon research conducted by the Building Research Co
uncil at the University of Illinois. Field tests of residential water syste
ms subjected to winter temperatures demonstrated that, for un-insulated pip
es installed in an unconditioned attic, the onset of freezing occurred when
the outside temperature fell to 20°F or below.
This finding was supported by a survey of 71 plumbers practicing in souther
n states, in which the consensus was that burst-pipe problems began to appe
ar when temperatures fell into the teens.
(Note: Please disregard any wind chill! *J*)"
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:04:20 -0800 (PST), Bob_Villa
Note - that is with pipes in an ATTIC. Heat rises.
We are talking pipes in and under a "redneck bungalow" - close to
ground level. My guess is 20F is about 5 degrees late on a breezy day
and 7 degrees late on a windy one.
A good row of hay bales around the bottom of the trailer before the
snow fell would have helped considerably - likely making 25F safe.
Mabee better. And a couple of 100 watt bulbs would then help keep them
from feezing to quite a bit lower temp.
Then again, I don't know just how BAD Stormy's trailer is. I know some
I've seen down around Ellicotville and south would hardly pass as
chicken coops up here. Likely cost twice as much to heat as my 3
bedroom two story.up here in Central Ontario
On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:58:57 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
for pipes to burst.
he magic number for a pipe to burst. From "The Weather Channel"!
pends, but in southern states and other areas where freezing weather is the
exception rather than the rule (and where houses often do not provide adeq
uate built-in protection), the temperature alert threshold is 20ï¿½F.
Council at the University of Illinois. Field tests of residential water sy
stems subjected to winter temperatures demonstrated that, for un-insulated
pipes installed in an unconditioned attic, the onset of freezing occurred w
hen the outside temperature fell to 20ï¿½F or below.
hern states, in which the consensus was that burst-pipe problems began to a
ppear when temperatures fell into the teens.
+1 The poster took what is clearly offered as a general guideline
for outside temps and freezing pipes in an *attic* and made it
appear it applies to freezing pipes in general. If you have a
piece of exposed pipe filled with water outside, I agree that I
would expect it could easily freeze and bust long before 20F.
On 1/20/2014 10:58 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I've not seen hay bales any where else in the
trailer park, not sure it's allowed. I'd have
to ask, some time. Might be able to rig some thing
with fiberglass, behind the skirting.
Some years ago, a couple friends and I blew cellulose
into the ceiling, and that helped a lot. Used to have
icicles down to the ground. From the lost heat.
When I go out for more than an hour or so, I turn
down the heat to 60F, figure that cuts my heat bill
a bit. Only runs two or three minutes to recover when
I get back. Sometimes, I'll light a stove burner during
the warmup period.
On Tue, 21 Jan 2014 08:08:47 -0500, Stormin Mormon
My brother skirted his trailer near Huntsville/Parry Sound ontario
with 1 inch lumber,sealed with typar (on the inside) and backed with 3
inches of insulation and the temperature under his trailer never got
below 42F - even when it is -40 out and blowing up a storm. He is on
He just installed an outdoor boiler to heat the trailer and his new
shop - and running the heat line under the trailer heats the
"crawlspace" enough that the floor is warm and the circulator fan on
the heat exchanger (in the "furnace" hardly runs.
It is an OLD trailer - was 2X3 framed - he built another 2X3 wall
inside the living room and added 3 inches of insulation, as well as
6inches or more extra in the roof - the kitchen and bedrooms are still
the original 3" walls and standard roof insulation.
He is hoping to get the new house built next summer.
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