Who makes the Best Chain Saw?

This is Turtle.

Well I read all the reply this even1) He seemed to see very few MS-310 -- 4.0 H.P. come back for any repairs at all but seen a larger number of MS-361 or C -- 4.3 H.P. or MS-390 -- 4.3 H.P. or bigger and then up to the MS-660 at 7 H.P. or bigger before he starts to see no trouble.

2) He said if he was cutting trees for a living he would go ahead get the MS-390 because of the .3 H.P. more but if you was cutting about a tree a month stick with the MS-310 for you don't need the speedy cut to make a living and he just does not see many of them come back for repairs at all.

3) He said he seems to think that when you break the 4.0 H.P. level on the engines it may put a strain on the engines or something like that. He then said if you break the 4 H.P. level you have to go to the MS-660 -- 7 H.P. level to not see them come back for repairs. He said this 4 to 7 H.P. engines seem to have all the trouble with very little below 4 h.p. and 7 h.p. and up. He also added the Huskey had the same problem that he seen the same thing as trouble verses the 4 h.p. to 7 h.p. engines. Outside this range he sees very little repair troubles.

4) He did not recommend any Bar lengths over the 18" on the MS-310 or the MS-390 because of loads to the engine and cutting ability. The 18'' bar was all the teeth per wood surface you would want as to not lug the engine down. The 20"+ bars started to load up the engines and cause the engine to lug down when loaded up cutting. The Bar length does play a part in the longivity of the engine and having trouble or engine malfuctions.

5) He said the 18" Bar would not jam in the 36" tree [ end cutting but 20" would ] and I could cut both sides and what was left in the middle would snap off. It did just what he said. To get the longer bar i would need the MS-660 and could cut up to with a 36" bar and still have the horse power to not jam.

6) The worst thing to do to a saw is to just use it every once in a while and put it up for long periods of time and if i could , use it as much as possible. The oil from the gas will keep the bearing and parts oiled up and setting it up let the oil drain off of the cracks and holes where you need the oil to be worked down into. Running it keeps the oil worked down into the place where you really need it.

After sizing up everything that was said here and there. I ended up with a MS-310 with a 18" Bar and come home and started butchering that tree. It took about two hours and 5 tanks of gas and oil and it Got-R-Done. I think i got the right size of saw for cutting something like this but time will tell for duriability. I wished I could look out 2 or 3 years from now and see about this saw, but i will have to wait and see.

I would like to say thank you to all the hands that spoke here and helped out on this project. Thank You Thank You Thank You.

TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE
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Slacker!!!

You mean you aint got it all split and stacked yet ???

Reply to
PrecisionMachinisT

Split? When you can buy rip chains? :)

-- dadiOH _____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

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Reply to
dadiOH

This is Turtle.

Hey After 2 or 3 hours with chain saw in your hand & everything you got is verberbrating and I do mean Verberbrating. I picked up a Splitter Ax and looked like a Al'key getting his first Beer in the morning. I got up during the nite and went to looking for the cord to unplug the vibrating bed that i thought I was in. And then you say start splitting that wood !

The Verberbrating TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE

This is Turtle.

Hey tell me about this Rip Chain thing ! Do you use it to split the wood ?

TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE

This is urtle.

The Stihl name kept coming up and I really don't have a ideal of what is too expencive.

I got this for $396.90 & charged it on my Dicover card and got 1% discount Total price :

MS-310 Saw with new type chain brake

18" Bar Gal. of chain oil 6 bottles of Stihl mixing oil for a gal of gas Chain sharping file with guide to keep it straight 1- Extra chain for the MS-310 1 - extra chain for my Poland 14" saw Cranked it up and set oil feed to chain on high amount of oil to the chain 8% Sales Tax added in

I'm not good at pricing things like this but it seemed pretty fair to me.

TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE

Well, that is why I bought one some years ago. However, I have so *much* available wood that I burn the bigger stuff as trash; consequently, I never used it. Should work OK though...teeth are square just like any other rip blade.

Be much easier to split than saw though...with a hydraulic splitter.. No way would I do it with a sledge and wedge!

-- dadiOH _____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

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Reply to
dadiOH

I say Stihl hands down

Reply to
LARRY THE CABLE GUY

Echo. We use one as part of our farming and it is superb. aloha, Thunder smithfarms.com Farmers of 100% Kona Coffee & other Great Stuff

Reply to
smithfarms pure kona

From: "Oscar_Lives" Subject: Re: Who makes the Best Chain Saw? Date: Tuesday, October 05, 2004 8:03 PM

Stihl or Jonsered.

Expensive to buy and repair. Best saws made.

Turtle, sounds like you got a pretty decent deal on a pretty good saw!

Time to fire up the coonass oven!!!

Reply to
Oscar_Lives

I think you have a winner. Not only do you have a good saw, but it seems as though you have a good dealer. Ed

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

According to TURTLE :

A rip chain is a special chain used for cutting logs lengthwise. Fewer teeth and ground somewhat differently. It's almost exclusively used by people with portable chain saw mills slabbing off lumber. These are little more than a chain saw plus a bar guide.

Ie:

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I don't think too many people split firewood with a rip chain. Way too slow. A rental hydraulic splitter is MUCH faster.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

This is Turtle.

I might have for i got to talking to some Flate Heads [ tree cutters on logging crews ] about them and they use them to keep up with the saws they use. They use the MS-310 for about 150 to 200 hours of operation and then have him rebuild the engines one time for about another 150 hours of run time and then throw it in the trash can and buy a new one. they can work off a 150 to 200 hours of run time for about 6 to 9 months of cutting logs for they only cut the limbs off the trees and then cut the logs in 20 / 40 / 60 foot lengths. The cutting of the trees is done by a Shear on a skidder that holds the tree and cuts it off and lays it down where they want it for the Flate Heads to get to it. The Shear can cut a 30" Pine tree and hold it and drive a 100 yards in the woods to get to a clearing to ,and I say , LAY IT DOWN WHERE THEY WANT IT. They can't drive around with pine trees bigger than 30" in diameter. The Shear will cut it and then throw it where they want it to fall.

These Flate heads said they use the MS-310 as a throwaway saw for price is 1/3 of a good saw and they both do the same job. The MS-310 will work about 12 to 16 months for about $350.00 and a MS-660 will run about 12 to 16 months [ no rebuilding of engine ] for a little less than a $1,000.00. The MS-660 usely will throw a rod or really burn up but the MS-310 will just loose compression and power. They also said if a saw is going to be not used for a week or more to run the gas out of it and fill it up the chain oiler , with oil.

The Flate Heads told me that I should expect about 150 hours of run time out of the MS-310 before you have to do any work on it. I told them I will be dead and gone before I see a 150 hours of run time on my saw.

Where is all the Flate Heads when you need them ? I spend a day and a half calling all the flate heads I knew and could not find one and after i buy a saw they come out of the woodworks.

OK Defination time ; Flate Head --- A tree cutter that has been in the business a good while and has been hit in the head with trees and limb so much that he has a Flate Head. He usely is Dumb , Strong, and has a Flate Head.

TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE

This is Turtle.

You just remined me about a New Coonass Microwave oven a fellow is suppose to be building for me. It's suppose to be made out of Cypress where I can leave it out doors and not mess it up. Water does not hurt cypress wood and it even like to be wet down every once in a while for cypress will not rott being wet all the time.

TURTLE

Reply to
TURTLE

All my friends here in San Antonio (where I am currently a guest) have discussed this and recommend the Mcculloch brand, in particular the "Freddy's Special" model......;-)

Reply to
Joe Fabeitz

Better get it split while its still green, cause oak just gets tougher as it cures.....

Splitting wood with a wedge and maul is a young mans sport--recommend rent, beg borrow or steal a hydraulic splitter.....these really do make for quick work in splitting up of the bigger chunks.

Reply to
PrecisionMachinisT

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