Whitewash!!

[Vic Smith]

Any Mark Twains here ever use it?

[Clare Snyder]

I'd use something like Drylok. Or a good portland cement paint (AKA portland whitewash)

A Hays Town's recipe for portland whitewash is as follows:

IT IS EXPLAINED FOR BRICK - BUT WORKS JUST ABOUT THE SAME FOR EITHER CINDER BLOCK OR CONCRETE.

Be sure to read all the way to the bottom for important safety & disposal information!!!

1.Make Lime Putty Fill large 5 gallon bucket halfway with hydrated lime powder then slowly stir in clean, cold water until saturated. Keep filling with lime & water until nearly full, making sure to leave a few inches for water on top. Seal with lid.

Let sit at least 24 hours.

Though not required, making lime putty by adding water to hydrated lime powder the day before not only makes for a safer work environment but will also give you a smoother whitewash finish. Lime putty will last indefinitely as long as it is covered with water in a sealed container.

2.Clean Clean brick walls or fireplace surround well to remove dirt and dust with power washer, vacuum, or my favorite cleaner; Scott’s Oxi Outdoor Cleaner. Bricks need to be as clean as possible since the whitewash needs to adhere to the brick through carbonation. *science*

3.Make Whitewash {start with a small amount at first}

1 part lime : 1 part white portland cement If using lime putty: In medium sized bucket, mix 1 cup white portland cement: 2 cups cold water. Add 1 cup lime putty. Mix well.

4.Add Water Add enough cold water until it is the consistency of heavy cream.

Thin coats are better than thick coats as well as easier to apply.

5.Strain Mix For the smoothest application, strain the whitewash mix with a fine mesh strainer. This will remove a surprisingly large clump of lime and cement bits that are much easier to remove after mixing with water.

Spray down area Wet area with a garden hose or garden pump sprayer until fully saturated to even out moisture levels between bricks and mortar in the wall/fireplace/etc. Older bricks tend to suck up a lot of water and need to be sprayed down more often while newly laid bricks will stay moist longer.

7.Mist small section Starting at the top, mist a 3’x3' section until moist but not sopping wet.

If your hand is wet after touching the brick, wait a few seconds for the excess water to evaporate.

8.Stir then load brush Using your large brush, stir the lime and cement whitewashing solution to resuspend particles and load the brush with whitewash.

Start off with a completely dry lime washing brush. A damp or wet brush gets very heavy and messy as soon as you load it. Having 2 brushes (one in use, one drying) on hand is best.

9.Apply first coat Cover every nook and cranny of mortar and brick with the lime whitewash. It should feel slick and a bit wild applying the whitewash in fast swipes of the brush.

If your brush feels like it’s dragging or you are having to go over the same spot over and over, the brick may need to be remisted or your whitewash mix is too thick.

Avoid too much build up as it tends to crack as it dries.

10.Mist, Paint, Repeat Move onto the next section and apply whitewash in the same fashion by misting the bricks, letting them dry out a bit, slap on whitewash, repeat until the area is covered.

The lime and Portland cement whitewash will look transparent at first but turns more opaque and bright white as it dries.

11.Let dry for at least 24 hours Let dry completely before applying a second coat of whitewash.

This can take anywhere from overnight to a few days depending on the dew point, ambient temperature, wind speed, etc.

12.Apply second coat The second coat goes on exactly like the first one Mist wall -> Slap on whitewash -> Move to next section

A second coat is not required but it will completely cover the brick’s color and give you a brilliant white.

Heads up!

When you mist the first coat of whitewash, it’s going to look like you royally messed it up. The whitewash will look like it has cracks everywhere. This just means it was applied & dried properly.

~ Lime whitewash is best applied when temps are between 60-80 degrees fahrenheit in shade.

~ DO NOT FORCE DRY WITH FANS Lime and Portland cement bind best when they dry slowly. Just remember, whitewash lasts forever so don’t rush it.

If whitewash is drying too fast, (less than 24 hours) mist with water to allow adhesion. Repeat until you start to see fine cracks appearing when you first mist the whitewash. This means carbonation is happening and you are ready for the next coat.

~ Starting at the top of the wall and working down in sections works best.

~ The first coat is very slow and tedious process, especially if you have irregular brick like mine. It takes me 3 hours to whitewash a

10’x10' brick wall. The second coat is much faster.

Important Safety Information •Hydrated lime is not the same as garden lime. You can find it with the cement or at your local Ace store.

•When working with hydrated lime, it is imperative you wear a dust mask, safety glasses, and gloves. Lime burns are no joke.

•No matter how careful you are, you will have splatter. Cover anything you want to keep clean.

•Clean up spills as soon as they happen. Once it dries, it’s not coming off. I’ve tried.

•Materials are cheap. Invest in a good lime washing brush. No, a masonry brush will not work.

[Vic Smith]

[gfretwell]

About 65 years ago. I am not sure I have even seen it in half a century.

[Vic Smith]

It seems a good option for my concrete walls. And very inexpensive. Think I'll give it a try.

[gfretwell]

That sounds like type N mortar before you add the sand.

[Vic Smith]

More like type S, since the "putty" is only half lime by volume. I'm going to very selective with my "secret" recipe. No molasses, no brown sugar, no Elmer's glue, no salt. Just lime, portland and water. The trick will be the proportions. But maybe I'll add a pinch of nutmeg to make it a true "secret recipe."

[gfretwell]

Type S is mostly just Portland and sand with perhaps a splash of lime to make it more "sticky" and easier to work. Type N is half lime and half portland, mixed with sand. Masons like N because it works easier. If you need strength you use S.

[Vic Smith]

No, S is 2P1L9S. N is 1P1L6S. I always mixed my own mortar. S lacks flexibility and can crack your bricks.

[gfretwell]

OTOH it seems to be the go to product for block, at least around here. I have never seen N on a job down here but we also don't see a lot of brick. I see what you are saying. Compared to block, brick is pretty soft.