What amp rating/wire rating to add dedicated circuit for fridge?

[rodeois40]

So, if I am reading correctly, it is ok to run 14/2 wire for outlet for refrigerator if that outlet is on its own breaker.

[Snag]

12/2 is a better choice . If you go with 14 ga wire , use no larger than 15 amp breaker . 12 gauge is OK for 20 amps .

[hubops]

Yep. .. but perhaps your electrical code .. is different from mine .. here in ButtSnuck Flatsuania .. ? Why not ask your local experts ? ... just a thought. John T.

[Ed Pawlowski]

New fridges don't take a lot of power so with a 15A breaker you should be good. My 2 year old 28 cu. ft. refrig call for just 6.0A. Check the rating on yours to be sure.

[Rod Speed]

But it doesn’t make a lot of sense to do it for a specific fridge. It should be done so any fridge will work fine.

[Ralph Mowery]

I don't know the code on that, but no more current than the refrigerators draw now electrically you could probably run # 18 wire if not too far. I am sure the code would have no less than # 14 and a 15 amp breaker.

Those newer refrigerators are not like the old days when they started up and drew so much current the TV set picture would shrink down in size for a few seconds.

However if I were doing it, I probably would go with # 12 unless there was some other code to meet.

[Clare Snyder]

Yes, if your refrigerator is sized to run on a 15 amp circuit and you are less than about 50 feet from the breaker #14 will work. HOWEVER - I would suggest running #12, allowing you to run a 20 amp breaker on the OFF chance that you might someday want to run a refrigerator that requires more than 15 amps, or particularly if you have a longish wire run - to avoid or at least minimize voltage drop

[Hawk]

This ^^^^^^^

The cost of 12 gauge wire and 20 amp breaker is minor compared to a 14 and 15 amp. Go with the 12/20 in cases of upgrades in the future.

[trader_4]

Yes, wire the mother with 3 phase, just in case, makes sense.

Next!

[trader_4]

+1

15A, 14g meets code and works for me.

[Dean Hoffman]

The latest article I found on a short search said 120 volts, 20 amp. That would mean 12/2 with ground. Also add a gfci breaker or outlet if the frig outlet is within 6 feet of a sink.

[Ed Pawlowski]

More sensible it to locate the receptacle away from the sink so you don't need gfci. You don't want it tripped while you are away for a couple of days with a freezer full of steaks.

[Clare Snyder]

From

The GFCI requirements for refrigerators are governed primarily under NEC Article 210.8 and 210.52, and had little to no change from the

2008 version of the code to the 2011 version. Here is the breakdown governing refrigerators and GFCI protection (according to the NEC 2011 Handbook): •All commercial buildings/kitchens are required to have GFCI for refrigerators. See NEC 210.8(B)(2). •In a Dwelling Unit (house or apartment) refrigerators located inside the kitchen do NOT have to have a GFCI. See 210.8(A)(6), Exhibit 210.13, 210.52(B)(1), 210.52(B)(2), 210.52(B)(3), and Exhibit 210.28. If the circuit feeding the refrigerator outlet is branched to any other outlet, it must be a 20-A circuit. If the circuit feeding the refrigerator outlet is a dedicated individual circuit, than it can be either 15-A or 20-A. •In a garage or an unfinished basement of a Dwelling unit, the refrigerator must have a GFCI circuit. In fact ALL outlets must be GFCI in garages and unfinished basements. See 210.8(A)(2) and Exhibit 210.10.

It is important to note that while the text of the code clearly mandates GFCI protection for all receptacle outlets in garages and unfinished basements, the Exhibits use the word “Freezer” when showing GFCI protection (see exhibits 210.10 and 210.12). This has been the source of confusion and has led some to believe that refrigerators are exempt from the GFCI requirement, and that freezers require it. E&S Grounding Solutions does not interpret the code this way.

Our understanding of the NEC is that both freezers and refrigerators must have GFCI protection in every situation other than in a kitchen of a dwelling unit. This is almost certainly a grandfathered hold out and will not stay in the code for much longer. The bottom line is that we should all prepare for the day when EVERY receptacle outlet is not only GFCI, but AFCI (Arc-Fault Circuit-Interrupter) as well.

Now what is NOT specifically addressed is a refrigerator or freezer in finished soace OTHER than a kitchen - - -

[Jim Joyce]

When I bought my house a year ago, the builder included an info sheet where the top third was a giant STOP sign. The text underneath warned me that all of the receptacles in the garage are protected by GFCI, so if I want to place a refrigerator or freezer in the garage I'll need to have an electrician install a dedicated non-GFCI receptacle. If I fail to do that, the builder will not assume any liability for spoiled food.

And now I see that refrigerators and freezers are supposed to be GFCI? :)

I have a mini fridge in my office...not on a GFCI receptacle.

[trader_4]

Unfortnuately, it's wrong.

nec 210.52(B)(1)

Exception No. 2: In addition to the required receptacles specified by 210.52, a receptacle outlet to serve a specific appliance shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.

[trader_4]

The fridge vs freezer in a garage/basement seems really dumb. Who's going to monitor exactly what is plugged into a garage receptacle? Every home I've owned, they were simply receptacles and over the years, you plugged in whatever you wanted at the time.

[Scott Lurndal]

Re-read it more carefully:

The article did say:

'If the circuit feeding the refrigerator outlet is a dedicated individual circuit, than it can be either 15-A or 20-A.'

[FromTheRafters]

If that's a direct quote, I think he meant then, not than.

[Clare Snyder]

MY reading of the code is a refrigerator IN FINISHED SPACE in a residence does not need to be on a GFCI. In a commercial space it must be on a GFCI and in unfinish space it must be on a gfci.

When I had my electrical system inspected (esa-safe inspection with service change and for insurance purposes) the circuit my refrigerator is on and the circuit my freezer is on (in the basement) both passed - the fridge is not on GFCI but the other outlets on the circuit haveGFCI outlets - same for the freezer (finished basement). Pretty well the rest of the house is on either AFCI or GFCI with the exception of the furnace and the central vac and the 240 volt loads (range, drier, compressor, and AC)

[TimR]

The experts here know code way better than me so I just listen about that stuff.

What I notice is that the OP (21 years ago) was moving a refrigerator to another wall. Is it going to stay this time? Or move again? I'd want whatever circuit I put in be ready for the next use.

Secondly, he's doing it himself. DIYers tend to use 14 because 12 is stiffer and a bit harder if you're working alone. I've always used 12 myself but I've occasionally said some bad words during a project.