So I have a Pump that can produce more then the typical 60PSI @
30GPM. I'm drawing from a 5000 gallon tank.
When looking for a Pressure tank I only see ones that have a 40/60 PSI
range on them. Though the Operating Pressure is like 110PSI. What
is that all about? Can I use my Well-X Troll Pressure tank and a
The only thing I can tell you about that is our experience out at the
farm. We ran a pvc pipe line out to one of the barns and cranked it
up. Don't remember how much the pressure was but it pipe off where the
line came from the tank and turned down into the ground. I don't know
if it just wasn't glued enough or what, but after I fixed it, I cut
the pressure down to a bit under 60 and have not had a problem since.
We have an irrigation system on one of the pastures and I have no idea
what that pumps. It's computer controlled and I guess it self
regulates. I don't think I'd run a whole house system at 110.
You didn't mention what the application is but 40/60 PSI is a good
working pressure for a home. You get good performance and the various
valves etc don't get destroyed nearly as quickly as they would at higher
On Dec 9, 9:56 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Hmmm... I'm not sure what you mean about dribbling. I completely
bypassed my booster pump and pressure tank (set for about 45/60) and
put a tank on my hill. I get around 40 psi and that's just fine and
dandy. Washer fills up quickly, plenty of pressure for showers and
hosing off cars, impulse sprinklers work just fine... No more of that
sudden increase in pressure when the booster kicks in.... For that
matter I was using a 55 gallon drum halfway up the hill for a while
and was only getting about 21 psi and that was enough for a decent
I have a slightly different problem. I recently converted from well water to
county water. The county pressure is very high and I need to cut it back to
around 60 psi. I don't have a pressure gauge in line so I can't see what the
pressure is now. How can I cut the pressure to about what I used to have with
Do I need to just close down the valve where the water comes into the house or
do I go to the meter by the street and close it down there? Or do I call the
water company and have them adjust it? Thanks
You need to install a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) where the line
enters the house...or where it enters the property if it branches off
to different place. Can't give an estimate on cost but it is a simple
thing and shouldn't be a bank breaker.
Closing down a valve will not do it. It might reduce the dynamic
(while in use) pressure but the static (no water draw) pressure will
build back up to the original.
Its actually good design to have high system pressure and a regulator
near point of use. Our local water utility does exactly that with high
system pressure and a requirement that you install a regulator.
I took a look this morning and I seem to have a regulator installed in-line
where the pipe comes into the house. It looks to have some sort of an adjustment
on it. Is that supposed to limit the pressure? Also the end of the regulator
is plugged. Is that ok? If I remove the plug and adjust the regulator does that
cut down the pressure? I don't know why the plug is there. A plumber installed
all this, last year. Thanks for any addl. info... Chuck
On Dec 8, 9:23 pm, email@example.com wrote:
Not really enough information. Why do you want that high of
Pressures over 60psi is not recommended for residential use. Makes
for excessive strain/wear on fixtures and gives no real benefit. If
the pressure tank were much lower than the residence, then you might
need to have a higher pressure there than at the house. You lose .43
psi per foot elevation difference.
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