I'm having some problems with the pressure switch on my irrigation well
pump. I live in Florida and I have a 1hp pump on a shallow well
(50ft). Everything has been working just fine until I went away for a
week and noticed the yard was dry when I returned. I ran through the
zones and the pump wouldn't turn on. I had the person that installed
the well/pump come and check it out and he said it worked fine, but at
the time I had power secured to it so he ran it off a generator. This
past weekend we went away and the check valve coming from the well
broke, and I replaced it. When I applied power to the pump, the pump
came on and one of the irrigation zones was on, but the pump would
cycle. The pressure switch was turning the pump off at about 35-40
psi. I adjusted and lubricated (WD-40) the pressure switch today and
ran all my zones without problem and the pump shut off by itself. When
I went out to check it a few hours after the last zone ran, the
pressure read 0 psi. I can manually trip the relay on the pressure
switch and the pump will pressurize to 55-60 psi. For some reason the
pressure switch won't kick the pump on. Any idea what could be causing
this? Could it be a problem with the sensing line going from the pump
to the pressure switch? Any help appreciated. Thanks.
1. Pull the 'line' (1/8" riser pipe) to the pressure switch and see if
it is plugged, if so clean it.
2. If the pipe riser is clear, replace the pressure switch. They only
cost a few lattes
They do get old, and do wear out, but also temperature can play havoc at
I had a case where the temperature here in the Mojave desert got over 100
degrees and caused the pressure in the pressure tank to rise due to the air
heating up in there. It is usually set 2 psi below cutin. If the switch
started to cut in when the temp was high, it cycled, sometimes to the point
of tripping the breaker due to high starting current making the average
current draw larger than usual.
I solved the problem by installing a gate valve in the pipe inlet to the
switch, and barely cracking the valve open. This created a dampening effect
kind of like a shock absorber and worked well for me. Always have a gage
attached to the pressure switch line; it will help you diagnose many
"Harry K" < email@example.com> wrote in message
I suspect something else was going on. The pump would only try to
start at the low pressure (cut-in) setting, not the high (cut out)
I don't think an air temp of 100 degrees is going to raise the
pressure in a tank more than a pound or two.
I am on a 2 pump system (aireator) and I got tired of screwing with
these things in the middle of the night. (do they ever break any other
time) My pump switch is on a quick disconnect (hose type) with a plug
and receptacle pigtailled off of it. You can "hot wire" the plug from
the pump right to the power in an emergency or you can swap out the
pump switch in less than a minute. I keep a known good spare in the
pump house so my wife can even do it.
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