Yes, but you don't want to pump more than you have to.
You can't pump a whole underground river out thru a 2 inch pipe.
I was respondiing to one of the other posters that seemed to be
suggesting solving the problem by just making the sump hole deeper.
That might work up to a point.
To avoid communication problems in the future:
"Water table: the planar, underground surface beneath which earth
materials, as soil or rock, are saturated with water."
The other definition says "completely saturated"
So, you don't have an elevated water table when there is rain. You
have wet ground, or maybe some more specific term, from which water is
entering your house. But the water table doesn't go up with each rain
and down afterwards.
Here's more "The American Heritage Science Dictionary - water table
The upper surface of an area filled with groundwater, separating the
zone of aeration (the subsurface region of soil and rocks in which the
pores are filled with air and usually some water) from the zone of
saturation (the subsurface region in which the pores are filled only
with water). Water tables rise and fall with seasonal moisture, water
absorption by vegetation, and the withdrawal of groundwater from
wells, among other factors. The water table is not flat but has peaks
and valleys that generally conform to the overlying land surface.
Compare potentiometric surface. "
If you don't have drains you will create a dry area around the sump pump.
The water under your floor would rather go to the dry area then up through
your floor. Its ability to do that will vary with your soil. Drains make
it much easier for the water to get to the sump pump.
If you had continual problems, or if you suddenly developed a problem while
your neighbors were dry, drains would probably be worthwhile. But since the
problem happens every 20 years, I sure wouldn't want to spend $5000 to have
them put in. (actually, that sounds cheap and I would be concerned it was
too low) In fact, when you have this 20 year even it might flood whether
you have drains or not, OR it might not flood whether you have drains or
In my n'hood, everyone with a below grade basement had to have a sump
pump, the law. everyone, in 1979, who had a basement which was at
ground level, which in our case was just at one end of the basement
(to the back yard), didn't get a sump pump. I don't know if any of
them added one.
Without pictures, it's hard to say for sure, but ti does sound
reasonable. Sounds like whatever is happening is gettign worse over
time. My only question is to (given the age of the home) if the
outside concrete has been waterproffed lately. It probably needs it
if it hasn't been done in a long time. I'd try that first.
I'm NJ too.
I had the french drains put in years ago.
They will solve the problem.
The price seems reasonable.
In NJ most people had Vulcan calling them
all the time. This was before telemarketing
went completely out of control and I called
them when I decided to have the work done.
I can't remember what I paid but this was in
When you see the amount of work it takes
the price will seem more reasonable.
Some things to consider.
They may want to hook up to the sanitary system.
Don't let them, in most places that's illegal.
Discuss that before hand.
If you might have radon issues, consider that.
They will be opening the slab to air infiltration.
It may agravate radon penetration and you might
later have to have the system sealed.
If you didn't have it in the first test, especially if was a 5-day
test and not a 12 hour test, you probably don't have it now.
Except for the point he makes that if you cut a hole for the sump,
maybe more will slip through.
They sell radon test kits at hardware stores, including Home Depot
etc. The good ones (at least 20 years ago) had to stay in the
basement for several days, then had to be sent away in the envelope
provided where they would process the test. I don't remember how long
this takes in practice. Probably less now.
I think what they do now often is put the radon removal fan vent in
the sump. I saw that once.
But don't get too worried. Only what 10% of houses have radon, or
more, or fewer. I don't remember but it's nowhere near a majority
even. Still this would be a good time to run one more test if you are
going to cut all the way through your floor.
Because a complete floor keeps the radon out, right? It only gets in
through cracks if there are some, and sumps. Right?
I'm not sure what kind of utility pump you are using, but instead of
pumping in the evening, why don't you buy a sump pump and pump all day
and all night long. The pump will turn off when the water level gets
to an inch or two. I think you can buy a pedestal pump or a
submersillble sump pump and both will work the same basically.
You don't need a sump to use a sump pump if there is water in the
I'm sure you can use flexible hose, perhaps the same hose you are
using now, and clamp it on to the output with a radiator hose clamp.
I'm not saying this will solve your problem, but you won't have to
tend to the pump, and you won't feel like you are in such a rush with
only an inch or two in the basement. You may be able to channel the
water from the crawlspace to the six foot basement area, but you'lve
probably already done that.
When you solve this problem, however you do it, you can take your sump
pump and put it in (one of?) your sumps. So it won't cost you a
I would turn it on and run it for a half hour without leaving the
house the first time. And don't plug it in or unplug it when you are
standing in water. I hope you are turning your current pump on and
off safely, so whatever you are doing for that you can probably do for
That won't be true if you pump 24 hours a day.
That's all I have for now.
This is what I have now (or even a little better), but tomorrow is
another rainy day according to the forcast :( My main concern is high
humidity in the basement, and how it affects the wood (floor) above
No, I thought about this, but I would have to do it in the
concrete... to my surprise the contractor doing the estimate didn't
propose this... He proposed two separate french drain systems.
Correct, but for this I need enough water to collect in one place.
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