water heater: removing anode rod

[tylernt]

Except, the temperature is generally too high for bacteria to reproduce rapidly (your body gives you a fever of 105*F to fight infection), the water is under pressure, and is usually full of chlorine or chloramine.

I don't doubt that there are a few hardy strains of bacteria that could thrive in such conditions (some particularly nasty microorganisms can live in natural hot springs, for example), but it seems pretty unlikely that they could survive the trip through public water processing plants.

If you have a well, then all bets are off.

[Ermalina]

What are you talking about????

I've changed my anode rod quickly and easily with an impact wrench. The rod has a standard hex head (1 1/16 inch). Here, look at one:

[Ermalina]

Look up info on the legionella pneumophila bacterium -- the bug that causes Legionnaire's disease. I keep my water heater at >= 140 deg. F to discourage growth. The bacterium can colonize dead legs of the water system and pose probs especially in "aerosols" such as showers. It's not just folks with wells who should be concerned.

[Mike Hartigan]

It sounds like you might be confused. There is no pipe attached to the anode. A standard 6-point socket will do just fine. Even a 12- point should do the job, if that's all you have handy.

[mm]

Thanks.

[mm]

Yeah, I was confused. Thanks. I built a shelf over my WH, with only a foot clearance, so I would like to replace anodes when appropriate, but a lot of trouble to move everything and unscrew the shelf etc.

But other people ask me for advice, can you believe that, and I understand this now.

[hallerb]

They arent worth replacing disturbing the tank may cause a leak:(

You may have trouble getting the anode rod to clear the cieling:( even with no shelf, and if your tank is gas watch the shelf isnt close to the flue pipe.

[George]

Just for completeness:

As noted, after much effort, I did get the rod out. Next time, I'll get an impact wrench. I put a new (aluminum) rod in. I flushed the tank several times, including 2x with vinegar. One thing I found is that it flushes much more 'powerfully' if I remove the draincock.

... And, it's running, no leaks so far. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks to all who replied.

George

[Bob M.]

No need for an impact wrench if you wrapped the threads with Teflon tape. It still provides protection, can check continuity with a meter if you like.

[hallerb]

I will be looking for rust reports....

how much vinegar did you add to tank?

does the water smell of vinegar?

inquiring minds want to know?

[George]

2 flushes, 1 gal ea

No. I flushed with water after.

G

[George]

Yeah, I did that. The impact wrench is for the next water heater, whenever that might be.

G

[hallerb]

=A0 =A0flushed the tank

Did you pour a gallon of vinegar in the heater input line? Was there heater full of water at the time? or empty?

Has the rust gone away?

[George]

Oh, yeah. Tank was empty. I poured a gal of white vinegar into the anode rod hole (I hadn't put the new rod in), and let it sit overnight. No water added. That's what the vendor's web site said to do.

When I let that drain, it came a little dirty ('rusty'), so I flushed with water - as in, run about 5 gal of water into the tank, then take the draincock off and let it gush out into a bucket. This brought out 'some' (like, a cup or two) of white lumpy stuff. I'm guessing that the vinegar is supposed to dissolve that.

So, I stuck a wooden dowel down the anode rod hole, and kind of stirred up the bottom. It felt like it might be plowing through some sort of sediment. I flushed that with water a few more times, and got out more lumpy white stuff. The water was a little cloudy, but not 'rusty'.

Then, I did another vinegar flush, as above. After I flushed that with water, it ran clean.

Yes - to my eye, the water is running clean. And, when I let it sit, nothing settles out of it.

G