Well, 0n Thursday I did my now monthly check on our 18 year old GSW
(10 year tank) gas water heater and found the insulation was damp, so
for the second time in the 26 years we've owned the house, I had to go
buy and install a new water heater.
I could have run over to a distributor I've bought a fair amount of
plumbing supplies from and saved a bit of money, but Home Despot is
only about a mile away, and I figured I could manage hauling the
heater home on the rack mounted to the trailer hitch on my PT Cruiser
- from the distributor I'd have needed to borrow a truck or a trailer.
I settled on the 12 year GE (Rudd/Rheem) 40 US Gallon conventional
heater at $549 canadian. It had no legs like the old one had, so I
needed to block up the one side to level it, since the other side was
sitting on the edge of the raised sub-floor of the adjacent rec-room.
Thankfully the alighnment of the gas and water lines was almost
identical but the new heater was about 6 inches higher - had to take
out 6" of vent and shorten both the cold ceed and hot outlet 6 inches
. The gas fitting was 1.5" higher, so I had to replace 2 elbows and
nipples with street elbows - which allowed the gas line to line up
4 hours including emptying the old heater,running out for new 1/2"
unions and ball valve, then the street elbows, hauling the new one
down into the basement and the old one out, and dropping the old one
off at the dump.
We'll see if this one stands up as well as the last 2 - 16 years for
the original, 18 for the replacement. - virtually NO sediment buildup
in the old tank, by the way. The water around here used to be VERY
hard (groundwater) but since the region started supplementing with
water from the Grand about 10 years ago, using artificial recharge
wells, the hardness has improved - and we DO have a softener.
Not bad time for all involved. Easier to shorten than lengthen everything.
At work we had an 80 gallon unit leak. It was in there when we bought the
building and the former owner had many more employees than us, thus the
large tank. I opted to replace it with an identical unit to avoid what you
had to do. Everything lined up.
On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 01:19:31 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I will NEVER use plastic pipe, particularly for this application -
and the water heater comes with the dialectric joints pre-installed
and standard equipment. I NEVER heat fittings at the tank. I ALWAYS
use pipe unions at leat six inches up from the tank, solder the
fittings to the pipe, thread the pipe on with teflon pipe sealing
compound, and then tighten up the unions.
Makes it a treat to remove later too, as you just uncrank the unions
and the system is apart - no hassles with trying to heat pipes with
water in them enough to unsolder joints, or cutting into the copper
pipe with a tube cutter. And I still use leaded solder because it wets
and flows so much better - and a PROPERLY soldered joint does not
expose enough solder to the water to be an issue - particularly in
the DHW system. I tin the copper pipe, heat it and slide the fluxed
fitting on ALL THE WAY, then touch just enough solder to the outer end
of the joint to form a neat fillet, and the joint is done. Solder
exposed to water? negligible at best.
The OP is far better served by a conventional tank unit! It costs far
less and was easily installed:) Drawng low amounts of hot water isnt a
issue, with tankless a low flow can cause no heat..Theres no lag time
from faucet on to burners firing water heating. ... No issues with
cold incoming winter water temperatures causing cool showers..Much of
a standard tanks losses go to heat the home in winter so they really
arent losses at all. all except what goes up the flue. the standard
tank tends to be highly reliable over its lifetime, tankless require a
knowledgable tech and routine maintence.... a power outgage on a
standard tank is generally a non issue, most dont need line voltage.
many tankless require line voltage to operate, no power no hot water
at all, if you ever had a multi day power failure a hot shower is
really nice. some people in a winter power failure have heated their
homes by snaking a garden hose running water slowly all thru the
house, ending at a bathtub, where hot water is finally released. this
is a excellent emergency heating idea. the $549.00 the OP paid for his
new tank divided by 18 years is just over 30 bucks a year, thats a
tankless instaneous sound awesome but the numbers just dont work.
On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 05:22:05 -0700, bob haller wrote:
I find tankless to be quite efficient. I have 2 small electrics, one
under the bathroom, one under the kitchen. I like something that only
uses energy when I use it. Who needs 40 gallons of hot water sitting in
the basement for nothing, losing heat and costing you money all the time.
On Sun, 05 Jun 2011 09:41:31 -0700, harry wrote:
I've been thinking solar hot water as a supplement/alternate or preheater
for electric tankless.
Is yours similar to this? http://www.compactsolarwater.com /
What about that electric thing for the winter to keep it from freezing?
Take a lot of power?
How much heat do they really loose???
I shut off the gas around supper time on Friday, in anticipation of
draining the tank Sat morning. I got started at about 10am, draining
the tank - and the water was still VERY hot. - and that was an 18 year
old tank with wet insulation...
The outer shell of the new heater is 3.5 degrees C warmer than
ambient in my basement right now, with water temp set at about 165f
Tankless is like buying a new car for better gas mileage:) the new car
costs a 100 grand:( and saves ONE MPG.
The payoff exceeeds the life of the vehicle:(
and so does the payoff for tankless:( Older ones were low tech but the
latest ones really need a technician for routine maintence and that
costs real bucks
No, but without a flue, they are not lost up the flue. Either statement
can be true or false depending on the location of the heater, if the heat is
actually used, if there is an AC" and if it is affected.
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