This unit seem like the perfect solution for my chilly basement.
While reading up on vent-free heaters, I found that they add a lot of
moisture to the house.
See "What about Moisture?" here:
My 95% furnace is in the same area where this heater would be installed
- basically a single room basement. The furnace vents to the outside but
uses interior combustion air.
Can I expect that the extra moisture will be handled by the furnace and
sent to the drain via the condensation pump?
P.S. I have a heat vent in the basement, but it doesn't do enough to
keep it warm.
If you have a forced air furnace, extra humidity is likely not a
problem. I live near DC which is nasty humid (I have to run a
dehumidifier most of the year) and when I actually need heat, I also
need a humidifier running, else everything dries out very badly, things
get staticky, etc.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Unless your basement is the size of a bowling alley or has a lot of
leaky windows, I'd advise against a vent-free down there.
The problem won't be moisture, it will be CO.
There is a chart someplace- maybe the building inspector- maybe an
insurance company- maybe your gas company. when I put my vent free
in they told me how many btus in an enclosed area- and gave some
leeway for windows & doors.
My vent-free was close to too big for the square footage where it
sits-- but there are 6 windows and an outside door in the room- and
the passageway to the rest of the house is 4 feet wide and can't be
It has never set off the CO meter or fogged up the windows, even when
we've cranked it up to 'old people hot' as my son says.
Probably not- it will just exhaust to the basement. In my case,
the rest of the house is heated by a hot air furnace so whatever extra
humidity gets thrown off is welcome.
I'd make the vent to the basement bigger. Is your furnace sized to
heat the basement, too? Even if you steal some heat from
upstairs, a warm basement will make the upstairs more comfortable- and
most of the hot air will end up there anyway.
The only advantage of the ventless could be that it would run if the
power was off and the rising heat could keep the house habitable.
OK, this is just "I've got nothing better to do tonight" rambling...
The closest I could find to a "table" on Google was this paragraph from
the Florida building code. Florida is about 1300 miles south of me, so I
don't know if this applies. ;-)
In the section of definitions, I found these:
(a) conditioned space
(2) heated space: an enclosed space within a building that is heated
by a heating system whose output capacity relative to the floor
area is greater than or equal than 5 Btu/h.ft2.
(b) semiheated space: an enclosed space within a building that is
heated by a heating system whose output capacity is greater than or
equal to 3.4 Btu/h·ft2 of floor area but is not a conditioned
The total square footage of the area I want to heat is roughly 500 sq
ft. The unit described in my OP is 20,000 BTU.
Doesn't that put my basement somewhere between a semiheated space and a
heated space by Florida's definition?
I know that doesn't really described the permissible maximum BTU/sq ft,
but it seems to imply that those numbers (5 Btu/h.ft2 and 3.4 Btu/h.ft2)
Am I even close here?
Forgot to mention this...
We have to keep the basement doors closed or the dogs go downstairs and
pee when we're not home. They won't pee in "house proper" but the
basement must seem like "not inside" to them.
I'm not too sure how much heat would make its way upstairs, although the
floors would probably be warmer.
Unvented and unattended heater inside the house?????????????????????
We have an unvented emergency heater, rarely used, in case electricity
goes off for an extended period.
If/when used it is taken from storage, placed on metal tray with air
space underneath and located near the fire place; the chimney vent is
opened and something else is opened slightly to permit slight air
That heater is never left burning unattended or when everyone is
sleeping! Even if someone has to get up and run it again for an hour
or so during the night; although that's not usually necessary unless
it's very cold and/or especially severe storm.
Please be careful.
You will enter alot of Co and burnt gas poisons into your house that
you just dont need in winter, we all need more fresh air in winter not
more poison, water isnt the real serious issue, but could grow mold if
its high enough. A 95% efficent gas furnace designed for exterior
combustion air cant run at 95% efficency when you are sucking in
interior air, it may be now 90% efficent.Cant you heat the basement
off the furnace by adding supplys, I did. Do you still use a chimney
for the water heater, maybe you could vent a vented heater into that
chimney. Burning gas inside reduces oxygen you need, and adds alot of
poisons , Co, Mercaptan and whatever gas contains naturaly
I suspect you'll find that the furnace doesn't draw enough
air out of the cellar to compensate for the humidity. That
said, winter humidity is often needed. My residence takes as
much as 2 galons of water per day to keep the comfort. I
know; I'm the guy with a bucket who fills the humidifier.
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