Using #14 wire on a 20A if plugged in

According to the index of the online version, 240.5 and 590.6.

I suspect that section 400 (flexible cords) would apply as well (since extension cords are not fixed in place), which would lead me to conclude that that romex is not suitable for use as an extension cord.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Friesen
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Sometimes hard to imagine we speak the same language (more or less).

The UK does have "ring" circuits with both ends connected to the same breaker. The rating is 32A (230V) and plugs do have fuses in them (at

32A, a good idea). The wire is not rated for 32A but each outlet is supplied from 2 directions.

-------------------- I agree that UL and the NEC would not be happy with putting a plug on Romex and calling it a power cord.

Reply to
bud--

You will end up back at 110.3(B), listing. The U/L has not evaluated the plug for a solid conductor. You also bump up against 334.15 that addresses how you must install NM and 334.30 which talks about securing in place. On the other hand if this is "temporary" wiring (less than 90 days) Article 547 you can get away with almost anything with NM.

Reply to
gfretwell

I would however check that the fan motor itself has some thermal protection so that it fails in a safe way should the blades get jammed or the bearings seize up etc..., or you may want to wire in a smaller

3 Amp fuse just for that purpose...

Mark

Reply to
Mark

Last time I visited there, every plug seemed to have one (not two) fuses. It's single phase, with one side grounded (neutral), so only one side needs to be fused. The fuse or circuit breaker in the panel protects the wire in the wall and the outlet, while the fuse in the plug protects the appliance and its cord. It allows nice thin cords on appliances that don't draw a lot of current, while plenty of power is available for appliances that need it. (The largest normal plug fuse is

13 A, which can deliver 3 kW).

In addition, modern outlets seem to have built-in shutters that block access to the hot and neutral openings until the (longer) ground pin is inserted. It all makes North American cords and plugs and outlets look like cheap junk.

The "ring main" system apparently runs the wires for a circuit in a ring: from the panel, around the outlets on one floor (typically) in sequence, and back to the panel - where the other end of the wires are connected to the same breaker or fuse. So there are two current paths from the panel to any outlet, going around the ring CW and CCW. This design was apparently used to reduce copper requirements (compared to a bunch of home run circuits of lower capacity).

Each ring circuit is normally fused for 30 A, so you can have a couple of 13 A loads operating simultaneously on the same circuit with some capacity left over.

Dave

Reply to
Dave Martindale

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