Update: F*&%ing heat...

If the height is 25 feet, 12 psi is okay. If the height is 30 feet, 12 psi is not okay. Which is it?

Unless you drain water from the boiler, you can't be sure that the fill pressure is 12 psi.

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Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Gary R. Lloyd
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Those guys will chew you up and spit you out in little pieces if you start in to sending folks off on wild goose hunts instead of focusing on troubleshooting the system in a logical, orderly manner.

Really no need to go there, many of them will do it here, too.

Reply to
PrecisionMachinisT

They can chew their cud all they want. I have a hide like an alligator. They'll find it impossible to make me leave if I should decide I like it there. Maybe you should rethink your strategy, fucktard.

BB

Reply to
BinaryBillTheSailor

And it appears your higher brain functions much the same as that alligator's, too........

I'm curious, just what the hell are you talking about with "strategy" here ???

What I mean to say is that that group falls into the ".alt" hierarchy, and as such I personally wouldnt give a flying rat's ass if you went on over there and proceeded to make an utter fool of yourself.

Reply to
PrecisionMachinisT

I just thought of something in relation to the height of the system...The basement is 6 feet, then two 8 foor ceilings, but the farthest radiators on the 2nd floor aren't located on the ceiling..So I would say max height is 22 feet, most likely less. And remember I am running 20-25 psi @ 160-190 degrees.

I am going to keep an eye on the system over the holiday weekend. If it works like it did the past two days, I think I am going to be alright. If it doesn't, I will dump water until it gets down to about

5psi, then refill to make sure it gets back to 12psi to eliminate that issue as Gary suggested.

One thing that is sticking in my mind is the circulation pump. Mine is on the return line, and I observed yesterday when the sytem starts up the outbound pipes get hot, then the return pipes, then the outbound went cold, then the circ pump kicked on , then everything got really hot. Is this how the circ pump is supposed to work? Seems kind of inefficient.

Finally with my exp tank - it is directly over the boiler and I seriously doubt that there is any water in it. No one answered my question about the air connector on the bottom - is that to put air in the tank or to take it out? If so, what PSI should the tank be at? Thanks,

Bluesman

Reply to
hotblues20

On 12/23/2004 4:48 PM US(ET), snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net took fingers to keys, and typed the following:

It is for recharging the air pressure (if it is a bladder tank). My Extrol says; Precharge pressure 12 psi. Maximum water pressure 75 psi.

Bill

Reply to
willshak

On 12/23/2004 4:48 PM US(ET), snipped-for-privacy@netscape.net took fingers to=20 keys, and typed the following:

I have been waiting for my boiler to kick on before answering your other =

question, but it is 51=BA degrees here in NY, and my house is well=20 insulated (6 layers between outside and inside). I can tell you that the recirc. pump is on the return line on my system, =

as are the manual shut off valves for the heat zones (I have 3). They=20 feed into the 1-1/4" copper return pipe just before the recirc. pump. The electric zone valves are in the supply lines, right after the=20 expansion tank. The heat should kick on shortly, and if I remember, I will tell you the=20 order of what starts before what. I am sitting about 5' from the boiler. Right now, the guage reads 150=BA (F) and 14 psi and nothing is running.

--=20 Bill

Reply to
willshak

Take a pill, asswipe.

BB

Reply to
BinaryBillTheSailor

On 12/23/2004 5:34 PM US(ET), willshak took fingers to keys, and typed=20 the following:

Well, now it is two hours later and my boiler has not kicked in yet. The =

gauge reads 100=BA and 12 psi. Outside temp 47=BA.

--=20 Bill

Reply to
willshak

The pressure that is relevant to system height is cold fill pressure.You are running 12 psi cold fill pressure... maybe.

Troubleshooting is a process of elimination; Determining what is not wrong with the system.

What starts the pump? Presumably a temperature control. Where is it? What are its settings?

The expansion tank is not the problem. Leave it alone. Forget that it exists.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Reply to
Gary R. Lloyd

More inserted.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Yeah, they need more dipshit troll-bait like you over there. NOT

Reply to
sittingduck

Hide like an alligator? On the contrary, you are quick to dish it out but you can't take it. At the slightest hint of criticism, you get all pouty, engage in mindless insults, and throw a childish little hissyfit. Then you make stupid threats about what you will do if you don't get your way. Next you will be kicking your feet and threatening to hold your breath until you turn blue.

How old are you?

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Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Gary R. Lloyd

This is my question of the day - what starts a circ pump (mine is a Taco) on a return line? Is it water temp? I popped off the honeywell controller and aside from the elec connections from the thermo and the circ pump, there is a dial set to 190. Is this the temp that the circ pump starts moving at? If so, can I turn it down to 160 for better flow?

I think short cycling is the issue. When it long cycles (when I get home from work and go from 62 to 72) it has time to get hot and circulate properly to a point where the house is almost too hot.

I agree. I further discovered that it takes air - and should be at 12 psi, which it is.

Thanks,

Bluesman

Reply to
hotblues20

I want to fix the problem then never worry about it again. Once I gain the education from this, I will be ready when/if issues should arise again.

issue.

No air. ever. clean water, all the time, every time.

This only happened the 1st time, maybe from bleeding a few gallons at the rads - last night pipes were hot (or getting there) at flow and return.

Nope - one zone. 1300 sq ft house...

I will ask the same Q to you, Will - what triggers the circ pump? Temp? Pressure? And is the dial on the Honeywell controller to set the temp at which the circ pump kicks on?

I think, after a week of torture, that short cycling and lack of the circ pump kicking in is contributing to the insufficient heat.... Thanks,

Bluesman

Reply to
hotblues20

If you keep inviting me over, I'll have no choice but to come hang out. alt.HVAC is an unmoderated newsgroup, which means I can pretty much do whatever I want over there. A bunch of sooty 8th grade dropouts are not going to be able to run me off with threats and insults. I won't really care. In fact I'll enjoy that they are so upset by my presense.

BB

Reply to
BinaryBillTheSailor

Most likely this is the water temp control. What is the part number on it? If you follow the circ pump wires you may find another control somewhere.

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Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Reply to
Gary R. Lloyd

I don't much care what you do. Just stop whining. Dry your little tears. Grow up.

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Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Reply to
Gary R. Lloyd

You could try turning it down and see what it does. If the water doesn't get as hot, then it is the water temp control.

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Gary R. Lloyd CMS HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software Written by a veteran Service Technician

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Reply to
Gary R. Lloyd

Yet you keep responding! You just can't spit the hook. Excellent!

BB

Reply to
BinaryBillTheSailor

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