Two Air Conditioners in the Same Room

[frank1492]

I have a 5X5 plate glass picture window with two narrow double-hung windows on each side. Currently, one of the double-hungs contains an old Sears low-profile A/C. It works well, but has always been very noisy and vibrates to the point of annoyance. I am considering two small GE 5150 BTU A/C's, one in each window. Are there any reasons why this would not work acceptably? The current draw on the circuit would be acceptable, but I worry about the two compressors beating against each other and creating noise and vibration that would exceed that of the present unit. Also, there could, I suppose, be other unanticipated problems. Could someone please advise me on this? As always, your help is much appreciated. Frank

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

When you have two window units in one room you have this. Twice the air noise and 1

-- 10k window unit will burn less electricity than 2 -- 5K window units.

Now two window units will even out the air temperature better but at a high cost to operate and noisier.

I'm not wild about G/E window unit but I think Whirlpool , Roper, Coolalater, or Friedrich make much better stuff.

TURTLE

[frank1492]

Thanks. I neglected to mention that these are very narrow windows. A 10K won't fit in one of them. I too prefer Whirlpool, but not sure it's quite as small as the GE. Height is an issue too, because there's a view. For $93 a pop at the Walmart, I might just try the GE's. These are each rated at 4.9 amps. When the compressor turns on, doesn't this increase momentarily? If so, will it double or what? Thanks again! Frank

-- 10k window unit will burn less electricity

operate and noisier.

Friedrich make much better stuff.

[HVAC fella]

'these are very narrow windows. A 10K won't fit in one of them. I too prefer Whirlpool, but not sure it's quite as small as the GE. Height is an issue too, because there's a view. For $93 a pop at the Walmart, I might just try the GE's. =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0These are each rated at 4.9 amps. When the compressor turns on, doesn't this increase momentarily? If so, will it double or what? =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Thanks again! =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0Frank '

ME: Yes, there will be a momentary increase of amperage..this is called LRA or Locked Rotor Amps. It is roughly 6 times the running amps. but, your circuit breaker has whats called a heat sink in it and will not trip immediately , allowing the amps to return to the running amp spec.

You cant go wrong with the price on these units. I saw them myself. You might want to experiment with staging the two a/c u nits : set them at different temperatures for more economical operation.

Dave

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Have you hugged your A/C Tech today ?

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[Jim2034204]

Lowes is selling 6k btu whirlpools eer 11.0 for $139 before the $20 manufac rebate. Plus if you send in the receipt you get 5 yrs parts/labor and IN HOME REPAIR. Plus my utility gives a $25 rebate for efficient models. I think thats a good deal.

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle

The two 5K window units are rated at 4.9 amps as you say but a 1 -- 10K should not be rated over 7 or 8 amps. 2 window units rated at 9.9 amps or 1 -- 10K rated at 7 or 8 amps.

Now Whirlpool has some very nice narrow style window units that will fit in a 10" wide hole and the length is used in highth. Go to Whirlpool.com and ask for narrow window units.

TURTLE

[frank1492]

There is a view issue here- the A/C needs to be narrow AND low-profile both. The GE's are only 11" tall, which is acceptable. You have given me some good advice- I really would like to try a Whirlpool as they are always very highly rated- but they just wouldn't quite do it in this unusual case. Thanks again, and thanks to all. Frank

be rated over 7 or 8 amps. 2 window units rated

wide hole and the length is used in highth. Go to

[frank1492]

Thanks for the explanation,. I was surprised the LRA was THAT high, thought it might be about double.

[CBHVAC]

First, Dave knows NADA about HVAC.

LRA is that..LOCKED rotor amps.. Ask ANY compressor maker what it stands for and its simple..

It is NOT starting torque, AKA breakaway torque...

ITs a damn fine way of determining if the compressors shot the big one with am amp meter...if you try to start it, and its got an LRA of say..60amps, and its pulling 58 and then kicks out, you know its probably toast.

You WONT be pulling LRA at startup..IF you are, you need to check the capacitor.

The units more than likely wont run at RLA either. They will probably run below it to a degree.

[TURTLE]

This is Turtle.

You have just been spoken to by our Resident Troll [ Me / Dave in ill. / HVAC fella ] and has no ideal as to working on HVAC Equipment.

You get L.R.A. on start or most all motors will trip the breaker. You have start amps and are not at all as bad as L.R.A. amps being drawn. Sorry everybody has one and he is ours.

TURTLE