May be no help where you are, but this is the stuff on the right hand side of
the little pond:-
I'm sure I've also seen a USA'n type, but I'm buggered if I can remember the
name it went by.
Any epoxy/fiberglass supplier should be able to sell you "epoxy
filler" which is what you are looking for. Or you can mix your own by
first mixing epoxy resin and hardener and then adding a substance to
thicken the mix. This thickener can range from talcum powder to micro
balloons to carbo sil to wood dust to just about anything depending on
how hard you want the results to be.
Bruce in Bangkok
You must not have much in the way of stores where you are. All the
major hardware chains around here have one or more types of two-strip
putty on the peg as do the major auto parts chains. Devcon is one
brand, J-B Weld has some also. There's some stuff in the plumbing
areas in most of the big-box home improvement joints supposed to stop
leaks, but I've used it, it's crap. Best sort I've used is the one
with the resin surrounding the hardener in sort of a "hot-dog"
configuration. That's the two-strip sort of putty. The True Value
also has a two-part putty that comes in film containers stuck in the
ends of a cardboard tube, haven't seen it elsewhere, X-11 I think is
the name. Good stuff, also available in white, which is good for
porcelain light socket and plumbing fixture repairs. As with any of
it, temperature makes a big difference in setup time. None of it is
If you can find a real hardware store, they'll have a lot of
replacement handles, maybe not as cheap as what you can find
replacement chink tools, though. If you've got good Ames or Collins
shovels and tools, they're worth new handles. Also, a cheap storage
shed will prevent a recurrance of the problem.
Marine grade epoxy resin. Carefully push into cracks and coat surface,
wrap a layer of fiberglass cloth, saturate cloth with the epoxy and then
wrap with release paper. When cured remove release paper, sand and paint
with quality marine grade paint.
Or just buy a new fiberglass handle for the tool...
I filled the cracks in my old shovel handles, and the handles on my
wheelbarrow, with epoxy and wood flour (sawdust is good enough). Then I
sanded and painted with thinned varnish; sanded lightly again and rubbed in
linseed oil. Six months later, when the linseed was dry, they were good as
You never know with linseed. If the surface is really porous, it takes
forever to dry. Other times, if the surface is completely filled and you're
putting on only a very thin coat, it dries in a few days.
Boiled linseed oil will undo the drying effect; start with that, put a
of external stain over it to keep UV at bay. Alas, the handles will
If you need more friction, a seal coat of shellac (should go over the
oil) will do it, but won't like wet afterward. Can't have everything.
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