I've a block foundation wall with full basement. After heavy rains,
water seeps in from one part of the wall and has bubbled the paint
about 6" above the floor and seeped up along the edge between the wall
& floor in the same area.
I want to excavate the exterior, install a sloped perf pipe drain
along the footing, apply a dampproofing coating to the exterior wall,
and apply either tar paper or plastic sheeting over the
Is tar paper better than plastic to waterproof the wall? If plastic,
what thickness? The thickest plastic I can find at HomeDepot is 6mil,
but I'm concerned that it might tear.
All suggestions appreciated!
-Anthony M. Falcone
On Jun 16, 11:08 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Neither sheet material will work well by itself.
The wall must be sealed.
Here is one way to do it:
Clean the exposed wall with a power washer and allow a day or two for
it to dry.
Repair chips, cracks, or holes to seal and give a relatively even
Using brush or roller, coat the surface. Make sure all pores are
Use fiberd or non-fibered roof & foundation coating.
Allow coating to cure for a day or two.
Protect coating with asphalt felt paper or inulation sheeting.
On Jun 16, 10:08 pm, email@example.com wrote:
I have seen plastic work. Use two layers--the outer layer gets pulled
down as the backfill settles. I would think felt would be hard to keep
on the wall during backfill. However, as long as you are going to the
expense of digging it up, why not use a peel and stick membrane? WR
Meadows Sealtite or Bituthene 4000 are a couple of many brands.
Yeah membrame costs more but MUCH more effective!
DRAIN PIPE MUST MUST MUST be BELOW FOOTER LEVEL! Or your water will
move from wall to floor level!:(
Been there done all this.
Honestly its way less work and expense to install a indoor french
No exterior digging. No digging it up again in a number of years when
the drain line gets clogged with dirt, trust me sooner or later it
will. no replacing plantings and lawn in effected area. system also
removes water from below floor so high seasonal water table is no
first make certain gutters are clean, downspout water goes at least 15
feet from foundation, and ground slopes AWAY from home.
I spent a summer and over 10 grand DIY trying to fix water problem
from outdoors. hired contractors for some I was laborer:(
Installed outdoor perimeter drain, actually replaced old clogged one,
a former owner had installed. backfilled to grade with rock, expensive
since sidewalk being replaced, cant put new sidewalk on dirt it will
crack, waterproffed outside walls, had many dump truck loads of excess
dirt hauled away, new downspot a drain lines, all new resloped lawn.
high water table resulted in water coming up thru floor..... after all
had interior french drain and sump pump installed for under 4 grand
that fixed it all. should of done that from beginning:(
would of saved a summers hard work, although yard looked wonderful
when it was complete.........
save yourself a lot of grief fix it from inside...
from one who has been there done that.........
One concern is the plastic may get brittle in a few years, no?
Whereas tar paper may not. Now granted, tar paper would not be water
"proof." It would just make it difficult to go through the wall and
encourage the water to go down to the perforated perimeter drain.
On Jun 17, 11:12 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Plastic would not get brittle below grade. But if you want to
encourage the water to go down and into the drain tile, as another
poster is suggesting, you use a dimple membrane in addition to
dampproofing. http://www.systemplaton.com /. What this product
accomplishes is reduces hydrostatic pressure against the foundation.
Backfilling with sand accomplishes the same thing.
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