Is there another way to tap a vent into a cast iron stack other than cutting out a chunk and installing a fitting? Last time I did this (over 20 years ago) the stack above the cut came down like a guillotine.
After all they do 'live taps' on high pressure water mains all the time. Vent is 1.5 inch abs. 4" c.i. stack is only 3 feet away. Presently the vent runs 22 feet horizontally before exiting the building then vertically up through the roof eave.
Thanks for any help.
Plumbers strap to support the pipe above the cut, and two sleeves, one at t
op and one at bottom of new pipe with the tap on the side. Only choices ar
e the angle of the new incoming pipe. You can get a right angle input or o
ne at perhaps 45 degrees downsloping (unless you put it in upside down)
On Thu, 24 Oct 2013 16:59:38 -0700 (PDT), " email@example.com"
Might be a good time to replace that CI stack with plastic - before
it rusts through and leaks. Getting hard to get insurance (new
policy) on a house with ci stack OR galvanized water piping.(here in
If it is a vent only, and not a drain, here is the easy way to do it:
Obtain a 4x1.5" abs saddle "Y" fitting. (A saddle fitting is sliced lengthwise
and clamped to an existing pipe. You can modify a normal 4x1.5.)
Drill several 1/4" holes (inside a 1" circle) in cast iron using masonary bit.
Apply silicone or roofing sealer to fitting and clamp saddle fitting onto cast
iron, making sure the holes line up to the 1.5" opening. You need a airtight
seal to avoid potential sewer gas leakage.
Connect new vent.
Probably not up to code, but definitely will work.
If you can find a "saddle tee" to fit, that will work as well e.g.
but keep in mind that you'll still have to drill a hole in the stack to
fit your pipe... doesn't sound like a fun job (but then again, neither
is cutting the pipe.) Different hazards though, I get nervous when
drilling anything larger than a 1/2" hole with a hand drill although
saws are safer than bits. Had my wrists wrenched/smashed too many
times, this is definitely a job for a drill motor with a T-handle.
If you do end up cutting, look into bracing the upper section of the
pipe with a riser clamp somehow before firing up the Sawzall or chain
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
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