Suggestions For Fixing This Slow Cooker Handle?

When my wife and I have people over and use one of those, we never have a reason to move it. It just sits on the table and people ladle-out the food. At least for us, the handle would not be needed.

Good one!

Heck I'd just chip away the plastic and use a speed nut and a home made bracket.

My thought is generous dose of two part grey epoxy (the over night kind) on both the stud and handle. Should end up being as strong as the original. Also, perhaps some clear epoxy where the edge of the handle meets the enamel exterior. Bit of grey epoxy where the alignment pegs go through the enamel.

looks like a job for J-B Weld

Chip away the remaining post plastic and 3d print a new post to thread around the screw. Make sure to use durable plastic.

DerbyDad03-

If it were mine, I would not hesitate to disassemble it. I would use a small knife blade or tiny screwdriver to work the toothed washer off of the post.

You may not be able to reuse the old handle. Either using it or a substitute, you could use all three mounting holes to secure it to the pot from the inside. Either pan head sheet metal or wood screws should work.

If you insist on not disassembling the pot, the epoxy may meet your needs. You might leave part of the white plastic on the screw to keep it from flopping around while the epoxy hardens, but leave enough of the screw exposed to grip the epoxy. Perhaps an undersized fiber washer could be threaded onto the screw to hold it in place.

Fred

I would not feel safe using any kind of adhesive on it, lest it let go while someone is carrying a pot full of hot food. Set it on the counter and leave it there, or buy another with a removable dish. They aren't that expensive.

My first thought is JB Weld too.

1. I'd cut away the remains of the post on the threaded stud.

1. I'd slather JBW on the stud and into the handle stud hole AND well around it in and around the existing plastic webbing...I might even drill some holes in the webbing.

2. I'd let the JBW set up a while until it isn't real runny then put the handle on. .
3. I'd rotate and reposition the pot from time to time so that as the JBW flows while it is setting up hard it stays where I want it (which appears to be IN the handle and ON the stud).

I'd just get a longer screw and a washer. Put the washer on the screw, put it through the hole in the handle, and thread it into the cooker..

Unless I'm missing something obvious.

I did miss the obvious - on second look the end of the screw is the treaded end, not the head!! so a longer screw won't help.

Well, Derby did say.... (quoted text sroll up)

Another POSSIBLE way is to take a dremel and cutting disc, cut a slot across the end of the screw, get a barrel nut to fit, start it on the thread, break the rest of the plastic off, thread the barrel nut on, using a small screwdrived down through the barrel nut to hold the screw, then drill the handle and out a short screw through the handle into the end of the barrel nut. If you can't find a barrel nut, get a peice of tubing and run a tap through it to make your own barrel nut.

From what I could figure, the handle was put on before the top and bottom were assembled. Head of the screw is inside the enamel casing.

Totally ideal answer would be to buy a new handle, take the cooker apart, and put on the new handle from inside. But, DD has said he prefers not to dissemble the cooker.

I agree, a barrel connector threaded onto the existing stud (cleaned off of course) then add a piece of threaded rod to the other side of the barrel connector to extend the existing stud.

Drill a hole through the handle and add a cap nut with a lock washer. Only thing I am not sure about is how hot the existing stud gets when the appliance is operating.

Two part stop-leak epoxy stick. Form handle and stick into place.

looks like a job for J-B Weld

Like chairman says. Add J B Weld to the center AND both side posts. ALSO DO NOT USE the 5 minute type. It has 1/2 the strength of the 24 hour one. I was told this in a conversation with the JB owner. WW

Call off the dogs...it's in the trash.

My son and I decided to see what it would take to remove the case and it turned out not to be so hard. However, when we opened it up we found this...

There were a few spots where the white insulation around the heater wires was cracked and separated. Every time we moved the wire, it cracked in more spots. There was no sense in going any farther because I wasn't going to put it back together knowing about the wires.

Thanks for all the responses.

Like the woman said "that was fun". Or, was that the man?

Rivnut and a machine screw.