My bathtub drainage has nearly stopped, so I was going to try removing the overflow cover and run a snake through the line. Trouble is, the overflow cover bolts seem frozen and won't budge. Tried spraying with WD40 to no avail. Also have tried heating on the low setting with a heat gun, but no help. Suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
WD40 is useless (Water Displacement, Formula 40) for that application.
You need a penetrating oil like liquid wrench. However, you need to get the oil on the nut, not the head of cover bolt and you may not be able to reach it with the cover on.
Is there room to use a hammer? If so, hold a heavier hammer against one side, then hit the opposite side with a smaller one. Hold a chisel or punch against the frozen part. Then pound on the chisel. Vibration loosens things.
If ony someone invented a device that _turns_ as you rap it with a hammer ...
Although a bath tub might be a bit fragile for a hammered impact driver .. perhaps an impact drill-driver would work ? John T.
I have one of those (two of those) but haven't used the impact part. Do they keep bumping counter-clockwise (if set that way)?
In addition to other suggestions. Try tightening the screws. If there's a little room to tighten, you can start wiggling back and forth.
If nothing works, you can drill the screws out. Use a reversible drill and left-handed drill bits, one just smaller than the threads on the screw. There a chance, maybe a slim chance because of all the water, that the screw will start to unscrew while you are drilling when its center is gone and it doesn't hold as tight to what it's screwed into.
Left-handed bits are usually expensive and sold one at a time but Harbor Freight has a set of 4 for a low price and they are good enough if you're not going to use them too many times.
If there are no decent threads left after driling, I guess replacement has to be done with glue, PC-7 or PC-11 which are stiffer and easier to build with than that that stuff that comes in a tube, whose name I've forgotten. You'll have to be gentle when opening and closing the drain. Or maybe you'll see some other way.
Or give up on this and see if you can find a thin snake, maybe plastic with barbs, thin enough to go through the overflow slot, or the tub drain. Maybe the one with barbs that hook on to hair and clogs so you can pull them out.
Have your tried going thru the bottom of the tub drain hole ? Just unscrew the plug.
Going thru the overflow means you have 2 corners to turn before the snake can get to the main drain pipe.
Harbor Freight has electric or battery powered impact wrenches. One would have to be careful.
Thanks, all. I got it. I drilled out the original screws with larger drill bits until the plate pulled away easily. Will have to replace the screws and plate, but job done and drain running again.
I like the idea of perhaps running through the drain hole itself. Did not consider this. I had some difficulty running the snake through the overflow and I only partially unblocked the drain due to resistance. Maybe investigate the drain itself next time.
I've had very good success using a honkin' big zip tie as a snake. The kind that is heavy duty thickness and ~ 2 ft. long. Cut a few angled slices into the pointy end to snag hair and drag the disgusting hair-gunk up to where you can grab it and pull it out. Once you've removed a surprising amount of the clog - ~ a quarter cup < ! > flush a pail of hot hot water down. I've used this method several times on tub/shower drains and even on a bathroom sink drain - it's quicker and easier than lying contorted on the floor to access the clean-out trap for the sink drain ! John T.
I will keep that one in mind. Good simple advice. My advice was going to be rip the drain cover off and replace.
Well you can buy purpose-made strips like you describe. Mine is made by Brasscraft called a Zip-It. As said, it is very good at pulling out hair clogs.
Also WAYNE may want to consider one of the screen things that replace the drain plug, and catches hair before it can go down drain.
Hey ! They stole my idea ! :-)
You've gone this far, might as well remodel the bathroom.
So did the Scotch in 1494. I hope you are getting royalties in hip flasks if not in pounds.
Since so many folks have been offering suggestions, I am leaning towards simply applying aquarium silicone to a new cover and adhering it to the tub. I know not the best way as I'll have to cut away the plate if I ever need overflow access again, but at least I know silicone can be cut. In any case, I thought I would post photos of the area with close ups of the broken screws/ studs.
Nice photos ! It looks like the drain is held against the gasket with the screws & plate that are still intact. It looks like the right hand screw has turned a couple turns and should come out using pliers or needle nose vice grips. Try scratching all the corrosion from around the base of the left hand screw and using a couple drops of penetrating oil. giving it an hour to soak in. .. it looks like a long shot from the photo but worth a try. John T.
Thanks. I made it a point to try getting the best resolution photos possible. Well, not wanting to stick up the bathroom again with Liquid Wrench, I brought out my clock oil. It has a long, thin tip and I applied a drop where the stud meets the base on each side. I'll let that sit for a while and try again.
I think if I removed that retainer(?) along the bottom, I would have better access to the studs. That is, IF those bolts will budge. Not sure if they would and I'm not going to jeopardize what's left if they don't.
Well, much to my surprise, that half circle retainer came off easily giving me a bit more access to the studs. Coated at the base with the clock oil. Still not budging after 10 min, so applied a bit more.
I think you are going to be able to get those screws out by grabbing with vise grips or similar - maybe a small lineman's pliers would give you good purchase without being too wide. Vibration and penetrating oil are your friends, and be patient. Grip the screw, put some light torque on it, keep tapping it. You would be surprised at what a few minutes of high volume low intensity tapping can do.
I am a little more concerned about the retainer screws. They hold the overflow against the gasket and the gasket against the tub. When that gasket doesn't seal you get a leak, it damaged my ceiling downstairs. The overflow moves surprisingly easy when not secured by those screws. When we replaced the gasket, my plumber worked from the tub side while I adjusted the pipe from the access panel behind it. Do not lose those screws - actually see if you can buy exact replacements - and consider a gasket replacement; if not then add a little silicone there. (My first plumber did that, which did not stop the leak, and DID piss off my second plumber who had a hard time getting the gasket changed.)
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