The deck/carport on my home is having some problems up here in the
Seattle rain. The solid decking, plywood coated with some sort of
decking coating, is rotting at the edges.
I do not want to give up the dry shelter this deck provides. The deck
joists are preasure treated and in great shape so I want to rip up all
of the plywood and re-deck with the correct type of plywood and
properly seal/flash the edges to prevent premature rotting.
Another problem with the deck is it is level, I plan to slope it away
from the house.
Does anyone have any advise on what type of plywood to use and
flashing methods to use on the edges? Any suggestions on deck
coatings that last and protect againts the elements?
Fiberglass is the only way to go. If you wrap it over the edges of the new
plywood sheeting, it will protect the edges too. Why they build solid floor
decks here in the Pacific Northwest Rainforest, I do not know. I would
never buy another house with such a deck. Would prefer a concrete patio on
the ground that I simply had to hose off in Spring and it is ready for
action. Decks are a pain in the butt! Guess they are good in Arizona or
Nevada, but not in the Rainforest.
Well until last week, you could try and get treated plywood.. There still
maybe some left around at the lumberyards..
I guess they are afraid of kid getting the preservative on their hands.
But then you real problem is the water getting in between the plys at the
edges.. This will be hard to do without glassing, as has been suggested, or
installing some kind of edging that will still allow the water to run off
without wicking in between the plys.. You should also be concerned with the
water getting in between the ply joints...
No easy solution but slooping the deck may help, then you will only have one
edge that stays wet..
1. Absurdly expensive, but I think you can get 'Trex' or similar plastic
planks in T&G. If you slope it so the grooves drain, it should hold up.
Caulk the tongues as you assemble it, and it should be dry underneath.
2. Call a local roofing company, and see if they have any membrane products
that are rated for deck use. Again, expensive. If they don't have anything
that can be walked on directly, look for something you could lay a removable
wooden deck on top of, made up of 1x stock on 1x horizontal sleepers.
(Picture a bunch of very thin 4x4 pallets laid out on the roof.) Roofing
company should have the appropriate drip edge and sealant to keep the
weather edges protected. As you already figured, you have to pay attention
to slope and drainage patterns to avoid ponding on the roof. If there is a
puddle, any pinholes will eventually cause a leak and damage.
3. Like the other guy said, use marine-grade plywood like boat decks are
made of, and some sort of weatherproof urethane finish, reapplied every
couple of years.
4. Take out a second mortgage, and put in a slightly sloped standing seam
metal roof, with built-in sockets to hold short posts and a conventional
wood deck on top. Yes, I realize this basically means reconstructing the
HTH- I very much understand your desire to keep a dry roof over you stash
I put several of these panels under my deck last year to shield my
generator. They work well. When looking I found that they are also
available now in urethane. The urethane panels are more flexible than
the older fiberglass ones and don't seem to get as dirty (smoother finish.)
David Babcock wrote:
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