Tile was glued directly to sheetrock. Due to tile removal, paper layer peeled
Wall was stippled late 70's (seems likely to have been alkyd, but since not
intended as a
pigmented final coat, it shouldn't contain lead?)
Procedure picked up from net searches, skim coating:
Scrape down high bits (debris trapped in paint for example).
Apply da goop with widest flex blade, pressing firmly. (keep overall thickness
I plan on experimenting with joint cement, because it's easily washed off.
However, if the
experiment gives results, i'd prefer to use a smoothable, and harder setting,
(aka 'goop') for my permanent skimcoat.
The last reply here seems correct to me:
After the goop sets, scrapedown blade's ridges with blade. sand where necessary.
going to be fixing any humps in the wall; the wall's ok.
About ten years ago, near the beginning of the low-VOC era, i tried stipple
paint. It wasn't
easy to maintain coat thickness uniform. I think the stipple paint was latex
based. I'll ask
at the paint stores if stipple paint has changed much, but i'm asking here, too.
Compare difficulty of skimcoat vs my experience:
I've done ok when:
Taping and fastener fill on new drywall, except feathering at cut joints takes a
Can make nail holes disappear without paint (if wall is approximately
color). At eye level, 10d to molly holes require paint, only to match color.
Can imitate the "multiple paint layers" look of older (milder) style knockdown
retexturing small (2-3 inch) hole patches.
I wonder if it's possible to restore the function of the missing paper that came
off with tile.
Nowhere is the paper layer peeled completely (gone, down to the gypsum).