After completing phase one of my first roofing project, I've time to plan
and setup for the second phase while a few thunderstorm systems pass through
this week. I took some pictures of the roof and some of the features that
have questions marks for me. I will have help this time; some of the people
are quite skilled with this kind of work, but I was hoping to air my dirty
laundry here first. Anyway, here's a link to a series of the first pics:
If you see any red flags or otherwise have a comment or suggestion, I would
greatly appreciate it.
Wow- that roof has been there WAY too long.
Do a side at a time, in case it doesn't go as fast as you hope. Replace all
the tin- even if it looks okay, by the time you take it off, you may crack
it or otherwise make it prone to failure. Flashing, drip edge, and ridge
vent is too cheap to try to reuse.The angle is done like last guy did it-
lay your rows out to have the dotted glue line at the bend. On a sunny day,
the row above should take the bend and adhere, or you can cheat with a
little caulking gun adhesive to train them. With lots of people nailing,
'eyeballing' the rows gets hard. Chalkline at least every 3-4 courses,
unless the felt has the lines and is perfectly horizontal. That one
transition that looks hot-mopped needs a flashed valley, with an additional
hump on the low roof side to keep water from driving under the ends of the
shingles on the low roof. I'd frame up and deck the new porch roof before I
did the roof above it- you can always finish the porch on your own after the
friends leave. Get a big dumpster, and several tarps. Also, that roof looks
pretty high- hope you can get roof delivery. If not, rent one of those
elevator things. Renting/borrowing the appropriate scaffolds/staging and
jacks makes it all go a lot easier. For the flat roofs, I'd consider going
to standing seam, or at least putting that self-sealing rubber stuff under
You are an ambitious person to consider a roof like that DIY. I hope you
plan a hell of a party for all the volunteers, and give them a case of
whatever you are making there.
Yeah, that's about an understatement. The price was right though!
That's been the plan. The front needs replacing but it's not quite in the
dire straits yet.
I was hoping to wait on replacing the rigdge vent until I get to the front
side. I'm open to suggestions on name brands. So far, the only one I've
looked at is the one made by Corning. Seems like there should be some
better ones available.
I suppose you just "cheat" the shingles closer together to get the right lay
If the weather is anything like last weeks roofing, this should not be a
problem!! Those shingles were floppy noodles. I noticed that they cut
pretty easy that way.
The felt I buy has lines and I was going to lay that out with chalk lines.
That area I'm calling the "cellar roof" is a big joke. They put a roof on
top of another roof there to stop a leak.... still didn't work. Fortunately
it was only leaking into the cellar that has a drain, where it did no harm.
That'll be completely pulled out with the replacement being 9ft higher...
and more slope.... with a flashed valley.
I didn't intend to attach the porch roof extension to the building. It's
more just for sun than rain.
I have a tractor with a platform on the forklift which will take everything
to the first "bend" of the roof. As mentioned above, the flat roof will no
longer be flat, once it's raised.
You don't know the half of it. Compared to everything else I juggle around
here, this work is a breeze. Though there are other jobs I prefer, I'd
rather be on the roof than in this office!
That's pretty much a given. Smoked ribs, potato salad, ranchstyle beans,
bread, and blackberry pie (all homemade); but most of these guys don't go
for my wine so we'll have some brew to boot, plus live music. Beside that,
many of them already owe me. But, any excuse for a party!!
Thanks for the input, aem. It really helps to air this stuff out before
for those interested, I found this website with some insightful information
on re-roofing (including installation of a ridge vent):
A tip on the ridge vent, do not hammer like the link shows, it tends to
blow out the sheathing when hammering near the edge. Use a cordless with
2-1/2 to 3" exterior screws, use a nail gun with 1-3/4" (longest ones a
gun will hold) for capping over the vent.
if you measure from support point to support point
I bet you will find it has been designed to line up with the rafters.
Always nail ridge vent into rafters.
usually pre drilled holes would be 4" OC
therefore it lines up with 12" oc,16"oc,24"oc)
just nailing into plywood is useless (high wind will blow it off the roof).
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