Repairing BB Hole in Window

[MLD]

[mike]

Actually, I think he should draw a vacuum on his window. At about 14 psi, it'll completely destroy the glass and he'll have to replace the window, which is the right "fix" anyway.

[JIMMIE]

Dont know nothing about thme but there ad is pure BS. If you have fog in your window the window either leaks or it was not properly prepared when it was made.

Jimmie

[Glen Moffitt]

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I'll probably put a temporary seal on it and then replace it later. Most of the time I'm near it, it's nighttime and I have the blinds down anyway.

Thanks again

[Dan Espen]

Some of these windows have lifetime guarantees. Not sure about a BB gun, but it could be worth looking into.

I had a thermal window crack and they sent me replacement panes, no questions asked.

Your window is most likely Argon filled. Without the Argon, the window will be 6% less efficient:

I don't think there is anything practical you can do about the condensation you will see inside the window.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

So how long should he run the dryer with the window in it? I'd recommend the permanent press cycle.

[nicksanspam]

It seems to me that drawing a vacuum could implode the window.

Or dry the air in the cavity.

Nick

[nicksanspam]

Gee, how could we that? :-)

I disagree.

Nick

[nicksanspam]

Heating the window from 70 to 100 F at constant pressure increases the air volume by (460+100)/(460+70) = 1.057, ie 5.7% no? How many times must we heat the window to lower the cavity air dew point to 0 F, if it starts at

50% RH and we replace the air that leaves the hole with dry air?

Nick

[nicksanspam]

How about a repetitive partial vacuum and a source of dry air, eg a box full of desiccant bags? How many times do we have to squeeze a bellows to remove

5% of the air from a window cavity, with a check valve and a vacuum breaker that allow dry air to replace expelled air when the bellows is released, if we want to lower the cavity dew point from 50 to 10 F?

Nick

[nicksanspam]

... 31 times.

10 P=.5*EXP(17.863-9621/(460+70))'initial cavity vapor pressure ("Hg) 20 W=.62198/(29.921/P-1)'initial humidity ratio (#w/#a) 30 PRINT P,W 40 P10=EXP(17.863-9621/(460+10))'vapor pressure at 10 F and 100% RH 50 W10=.62198/(29.921/P10-1)'10 F humidity ratio 60 W=.95*W'squeeze bellows 70 IF W>W10 THEN N=N+1:GOTO 60 80 PRINT N,W,W10

.3741957 7.87707E-03

31 1.525878E-03 1.536647E-03

Nick

[dpb]

A bunch unless you can somehow figure out which new dry air is different from the existing on the subsequent heating cycles.

Just go get the window fixed...

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[dpb]

So what's your plan? The heating route certainly isn't very effective.

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[dpb]

... Didn't read the code but that's "simple" fix anybody is just going to have the facilities to do just lying around--right! :(

At first blush it appears assumed totally dry air which wouldn't be likely and doesn't account for mixing so that part of the introduced air will be withdrawn as well as the initial on every cycle.

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[bud--]

I believe they put desiccant in the separator channels. The air that is sealed in does not have to be absolutely dry.

Otherwise I agree with your comments.

The air in the window will equalize with the outside air. The hole could be sealed when the dew point of the outside air is sufficiently low (below the lowest temperature in winter).

[nicksanspam]

The parts might cost $25.

Air from a plastic box with a few desiccant bags would be close.

But it does. Read the code... a lot of 3rd graders used to speak BASIC :-)

10 P=.5*EXP(17.863-9621/(460+70))'initial cavity vapor pressure ("Hg) 20 W=.62198/(29.921/P-1)'initial humidity ratio (#w/#a) 30 PRINT P,W 40 P10=EXP(17.863-9621/(460+10))'vapor pressure at 10 F and 100% RH 50 W10=.62198/(29.921/P10-1)'10 F humidity ratio 60 W=.95*W'squeeze bellows 70 IF W>W10 THEN N=N+1:GOTO 60 80 PRINT N,W,W10

.3741957 7.87707E-03

31 1.525878E-03 1.536647E-03

Nick

[dpb]

[e-mail] wrote: ...

... And futzing around for several hours w/ the end result being a partially evacuated window w/ an obvious hole in the middle that undoubtedly won't be a permanent repair...

Meanwhile, $50 or so will put it back to new condition and depending on insurance might conceivably even have some fraction covered.

While an interesting intellectual exercise, just isn't the logical solution unless one is simply into doing stuff like that for the fun of it.

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[nicksanspam]

Maybe less, for an aquarium pump and a timer and a little tubing and a plastic box and a few desiccant bags.

Maybe a half-hour :-)

Not, when it's over.

Not, with an indexed-matched clear epoxy.

I just spent $230 for the glass and a few hours labor to replace a fogged sliding glass door panel.

10 P=.5*EXP(17.863-9621/(460+70))'initial cavity vapor pressure ("Hg) 20 W=.62198/(29.921/P-1)'initial humidity ratio (#w/#a) 30 PRINT P,W 40 P10=EXP(17.863-9621/(460+10))'vapor pressure at 10 F and 100% RH 50 W10=.62198/(29.921/P10-1)'10 F humidity ratio 60 W=.95*W'squeeze bellows 70 IF W>W10 THEN N=N+1:GOTO 60 80 PRINT N,W,W10

.3741957 7.87707E-03

31 1.525878E-03 1.536647E-03

^ --- this woulda been 1/0.05 = 20 if there were no air mixing.

Nick

[dpb]

[e-mail] wrote: ...

... And I had a double-pane single-lite window done last year for about $50

-- far more nearly what the OP was speaking of.

Since glass is covered under my homeowners at replacement for hail damage, it was nothing out of pocket.

Again, if you're into futzing around w/ stuff, so be it; in general I've more productive/interesting things to do...

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[aemeijers]

Lordy. How many angels can dance on the head of a pin? There is no practical way to field-repair a holed insulated window. OP should wait for next warm dry sunny day when the glass is as hot as it gets, put a dab of epoxy over the hole, and live with the occasional fogging until he can afford to replace the panel.

-- aem sends...