My plumber tells me it's OK to take out any one floor joist, is this
The floor right now is 16" on center, span 8'6" joists 2"x8".
He's removing an iron bath and fitting a shower and the drain lands in
a different place.
If I understand right he wants to cut out about 18" from the center of
one joist and add doubled 2"x8" braces before and after to the
I'd have expected to double up the 2 neighbours but he says this isn't
needed. Possibly as it would be a pain in the ass to do as 2 water
pipes pass thru both which I assume would have to be cut and re
Assuming it's common pine, that's Barely adequate. Too
light for my taste.
I'm not certain if I understand your description correctly,
but the only way to get away with this is to create a "box"
around the drain area that ties the cut joist back into the
adjoining joists. In some cases, the joist to be cut should
be supported while the process takes place.
Again, given that they're only 2x8's, I'd be tempted to add
some strength as well.
you could always use a couple of posts and run a beam perpindicular to the
floor joists, right under the shower and to the wall side of the drain. it
will support that short cut length of the floor joist and take some weight
off the other side. or maybe just put a post under each cut end of the
also, you can probably still go around it, even if it means using some scaps
as spacers. like this as viewed from top or bottom:
new drain through cut joist
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx O xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx cut joist
xxxxx xxxxxxxx 2x8 spacers
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx new suupport
i cant see exactly what you got, but maybe you dont necessarily need to cut
the pipes, you could just notch the new support and slip it in around the
pipes. sure its not as good as an uncut beam, but its better than
lastly, if im reading this right, you're installing a shower stall type deal
where a tub used to be which is why the hole doesnt line up. they make
floor pans just for this purpose with the drain off to the side in the
standard tub location. you might look into this to avoid cutting the joist
in the first place.
On that small span I don't think doubling is necessary provided the headers
are properly supported with joist hangers at each end of the 16" run and for
the joist its self. It should look like # Well like a box.
Heck one picture 1000 words:
I have one in my house over a much larger span where the commode sits,
inspected and approved 1995 construction. The only thing I would do
different from the picture is to use joist hangers on all six ends. Here
they are only used for the joist and not the headers.
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