I need to replace my gutters and am considering whether to use a
seamless gutter outfit that shapes aluminum roll stock on site. So a
I assume that where the gutter turns a shallow angle (e.g. 22.5
degrees for a bay), a seam would be required anyway. Or is there some
way to extrude the angle, too?
On a long straight run with downspouts at either end, the middle
should be high with slope down towards each downspout. Does this
require a seam in the middle, or is the extruded gutter flexible
enough to accomodate the change in slope without a seam?
I installed my own last year, had them dropped off on site. There are various
thickness available, availabliity may vary by area. The Home Depot 10' gutters
are .019" thick. The common seamless gutters are .025" and came in various
colors. The 'commercial' version is .032" thick and came only in white. I have
large trees that drop branches, so I went with the .032".
It needs a joint. There are two types. mitered and <mumble>. One type is the
standard, 6" long, pre-formed corners you can buy anywhere, the mitered joint
is a small strip that goes inside and your miter cut (plus the rivets or
screws) is the only thing showing. I only needed 90 degree corners.
Hmm, dunno. My longest run was 36', and I designed it for one outlet which
works fine. They are pretty stiff when installed, they certainly wouldn't drop
at each end very much without a relief cut or a kink in the center, I would
The change in slope is really quite minor. The seamless gutters are
plenty flexible to accommodate the change. I think, and someone
SHOULD correct me if I am wrong, but I think that a slop of around
1/2" per 10' is plenty for gutters.
I'm not in the gutter business, so take this free advice for what it
I had seamless gutters installed all around the house right after it
was built ten years ago. At every angle there had to be a seam.
As far as slope on a long run, I'm not sure that is really needed,
as long as there is no low spot. Any small amount of residual water
will soon dry after a rain.
One word of caution is that the gutter should be installed so there
is a slight air space behind it, between the fascia and the gutter.
This should be about half an inch.
The reason I mention this is that I had fascia board rotting in four
different areas around the house. I noticed that above each of
these rotted areas, the gutter was tight against the fascia and
where there was space, there was no rot.
In sighting down the gutter from one end, I noticed that the nails
(screws) were not driven in at right angles to the fascia. That is,
they were slanting upward which held the gutter against the board.
As a result, no air could get behind them to allow for drying.
I fixed this by bending the those nails upward to pull the bottom of
the gutter away from the house.
Hope this helps in some way.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.