On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:08:40 PM UTC-5, Jennifer Murphy wrote:
etween the two you can add a neutral.
Nope, the neutral can come from the outlet since it's the same circuit.
You could also run power from a closer source if you have an outlet closer
to the switch. Run a new piece of 14/2 power from a nearby outlet to the s
witch box. Then use the existing 14/2 line that is already going to the sw
itched outlet as new switched power to it. Disconnect and cut back the ori
ginal power line in the switched outlet but leave the end in the box.
On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 13:59:32 -0800 (PST), jamesgang
There is an outlet about 3 feet away on the other side of the wall, but
it's on a different circuit breaker. In any case, me trying to follow
those instructions would be a surefire recipe for setting either my hair
of the house on fire. I'll stick with the 550 switch that doesn't
require a neutral and remember to keep anyone from plugging in a
compressor. If I need the other switch, I'll hire an electrician.
Thanks for the help.
I put a quote mark around the 'fake neutral' to try and indicate it is not a
true neutral. The hot wire with 120 volts on it goes to the switch. The
wire leaving the switch goes through the load and back to the neutral. That
is the reason for the minimum load. With no load , there is no return for
the power and the switch will not work.
When the load is powered up there are a couple of volts dropped across the
switch to keep it powered up.
Volt dropping: "Hey, did you know that I'm distantly
related to DC? You look great in that insulation.
Black is really your color. You're hot. Love the way
you keep your split ends under a wire nut like that.
Millie Amp says hi. She's got great potential. You
do know that Edison and I were best friends?"
Intermatic makes a few in-wall timers that don't need a neutral and can
switch up to 15 amps tungsten. I think these also have no minimum load.
Looking at their Web site, the EI600 or ST01 may do what you want.
These tend to have batteries in them, which is why they can work without
a netural - they don't need to draw power through the load. I had an
older model Intermatic (circa 2000) that needed one AAA battery; a fresh
alkaline would last about a year. The newer ones may have rechargeables.
I bought the one I had at either Lowe's or Home Depot.
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
On Mon, 9 Dec 2013 22:04:44 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Thanks for that link. There are 4 that support sunset/sunrise
programmability. They all have batteries, I think, and one has a
These look similar to the old Aube Ti034, which is the one I had that
got cooked. I think the new Honeywell 550A has a much nicer UI. There's
no flip up cover. Just a display and three buttons: left, right, and
select. The left/right buttons display the sunset/sunrise times for
today when not in menu mode.
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