OBTW, you could put a remote disconnect and then run #10 to the actual
connections. It (the wiring, not the motor that has its own) can be
protected at the local with just a disconnect remote/near the motor if
it's sized for the ampacity of the load which 10 will carry; you just
need the larger in this case because it's a motor to avoid the voltage
drop for startup.
The motor is 1 HP. If wired for 115 volts it takes 23 amps and if 230 volts
it takes 6.5 amps.
If ran on 60 hz it runs at 1723 rpm and if 50 hz 1425 rpm.
It has a thermal switch inside so if it gets too hot it will stop and when
it cools down it can be restarted.
On Tuesday, July 21, 2015 at 9:07:11 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
Yes, it's definitely a dual voltage motor.
Yes, you are correct in that my voltage drop calculation is incorrect (used the wrong current) and I just redid and found only a 4.5volt drop (2% drop).
Yes, I plan on going with #10.
Thank you, evereyone, VERY much for the advice, all of which was well-referenced and thought out.
#10 would probably suffice for the running load, but the starting load will be much greater. I would go with #8 copper wire. You should contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend for a wire size and a breaker.
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