I'm repairing a 2' section of pvc sewer drain pipe just outside of my
house. I plan on using rubber clamps to join the sections (unless
someone has a reason not to). Question is how flush do the pieces of
pipe have to be to avoid having toilet paper, etc. get stuck where
they join and thereby causing a blockage? Is this a legitimate worry
of mine? If I use pvc glue in addition to the clamp, will it fill gaps
at all? Any other thoughts?
Also, the section that I'm repairing appears to have gotten bent (or
always was), so that it isn't a steady drop from the house towards the
street. If a couple foot section doesn't drop, or even goes up a tad,
is that a big problem? Thanks for any and all help!
Cut the new section of pipe about 1/2" shorter than the gap.
That will give you 1/4" at each end allow it to drop in place.
You're probably using the Mission-style coupling (hose clamp at
each) which does not have a "filler" ridge in the rubber.
The resulting 1/4" gap between pipe sections won't cause any
problems, but if you want, file the inside of the pipe to a
If the settling only caused a slight "belly", I wouldn't worry.
Thanks for the feedback. It sounds as though that's the coupling I'm
using. On the street-side end I had that much or less of a gap, simply
a result of the cuts not both being perpendicular to the pipe. That's
why I was wondering if I needed to sand/file them to make them flush.
Thanks for the tip on beveling it.
Am I okay on the other end? Situation there is I'm coming from a 3"
(the new section is 4"), but where the 3" broke it has a collar on it
(from a snake-access port - sorry, don't know the official name), and
hence it's about 3.75". I'm using the 4" rubber clamp, but it seems to
be able to tighten down on it enough. But I cut the new 4" section so
that it slips around the 3". Since this is the "upstream" end, I
didn't think this would be a problem. Or is it? I thought it was
better that having it the same length, or the 1/4" you suggested,
since it will be about 1/4" larger all around, too.
This is what was recommended to me, and the guys who put in a
sprinkler system next door used these to repair my neighbor's drain
pipe when they cut into it. Seemed like it would work, save for my
concern of things catching. From what I read on the PVC solvent/glue
can, the "right" way seemed like a lot more work, and if it wasn't
that little crack is gonna fill with sh** real fast and its not going to be
as for it going up a bit, i think the deciding factor is this: is the
lowest part of the high spot in the pipe, higher or the same level as where
the drain started from? if so, you got problems. if not it should be ok.
Thanks. While it was cracked and I got the pleasure of watching some
flushes, etc. go down, they all seemed to carry-on. Though at the time
I hadn't noticed the slight rise, I have to assume it was there; I
didn't notice it until I put the new piece in, and it's straight. So
I'm guessing it's overall downhill (this is right next to the house,
and in-between it and the house is the access port, so can't get a
good level measurement). So I guess I'll just have some stagnant water
in this area until the next batch comes down, and no biggie. Thanks
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