My home has a well with a submersible pump. It has been running every
few minutes even though there are no faucets leaking, the toilets don't
run, etc. I just replaced the pressure switch that broke (probably
because it ran so often!). Could it be the tank (it doesn't leak) or
the check valve (the check value is down about 60' near the pump)?
Changing that gauge is a good place to begin. They are under $10.
That way you can see whats going on with the pressure.
Next step, look down the well with a bright light and see if you see
water shooting out of a pipe.
Obviously be sure a toilet is not running, etc.
Shut off the valve to the house and see if the pressure still drops
(after replacing gauge).
My next door neighbor's pump started with the same problem.
Then it started running constantly, providing less and less
pressure to the house. The plumber found that the pipe
coming up from the pump had split. They replaced the pipe
and all is well. Let us know what you find.
It sounds like you have two problems.
A leak somewhere.
A tank that is almost totally water logged.
You need to replace the gauge first to really tell what is happening.
They are not expensive.
Even with a leak, the pump should run for a significant time before it
shuts off. Rapid on/off cycling is almost always a sign of a tank with
The pump still runs every 2-3 minutes even with the supply to the house
shut off so the problem is the tank or a leak. The pump runs the same
amount of time as it did when the system had no problem - I would think
it would have to run longer if there was a leak (?). Could I replace
the tank myself - it's too small for our system anyway.
Yes, you are correct, the pump should run longer once it starts if
there is a leak.
Pre-charge - an amount of air put into the tank to act as a "spring".
As the pump runs, it compresses that bubble until system pressure
reaches cut-off setting. The normal pre-charge is 2 psi below the
cut-in setting. Normal settings would be 30/50 or 40/60 thus a
precharge of 28 or 38 psi. Most tanks now-adays have a bladder that
keeps the water and air separated.
Replacing the tank: Should be no problem if you have room to work and
have done some plumbing. They weigh very little empty so are easily
moved. You have one pipe that acts as both in and out that will go
through a "T" before the tank. Plus a take-off somewhere for the
pressure switch - normally a 1/8" pipe with the gauge and switch
attached. That 1/8" riser pipe can be a souce of problems itself in
that it tends to plug up with crude and need cleaning out occasionally.
Ask at the place you shop for a tank for the appropriate sized tank.
As I said before. Your first step must be to replace that gauge. You
are flying blind until you have one that shows what the system is
The check-valve will be a part of the pump (normally).
Re: leakage. That is the only reason I can see that the pump would
start repeatedly when you are not drawing water. With a small tank a
small leak could cause the problem. It doesn't take long for the
pressure to leak down out of a small tank if a trickle is runnig
If your check valve is located down at the submersible pump, it's possible
that it's not preventing backflow (could be stuck open), letting pressurized
water flow back into the well as soon as the pump kicks off. You need a
pressure gauge to see what's going on, i.e., does the system pump up to
shut-off pressure and then immediately start dropping back. If the house
supply is shut off and this is happening, the check valve has a problem or
you have a hole in the pipe from the pump to the tank.
The new pressure guage shows the pressure falling immediately. It
takes about 5 minutes to get back to 30#. The tank pressure was low -
20# - might not have been set correctly when installed. I pumped it up
to 28# and checked in a couple days and it held.
I'm not able to pull the pump/check valve myself so I will have to call
in the pros. I hope the line into the house is OK. It goes through
the floor of the basement and travels about 15' under sidewalk and
flower beds to the well head. I'm sure it's at least 4 feet down
because we live in MN where the frost line can go that low! Let's hope
it's the check valve. When we moved in 27 years ago there was a check
valve in the basement but it was taken out (very noisey) and a new one
placed near the submursible pump when I got a new pump about 10 years
Thanks for evryone's help!!
I think if this has been going on very long and you have a break in the line
from the well head to the house, you'd see some evidence of water coming to
the surface somewhere. Of course, if there's a break in the pipe below the
well head, you won't see anything.
Sometimes (but only infrequently) a stuck check valve can be freed by
increasing the pressure on your system and letting it cycle several times.
The higher pressure when the pump kicks off is "sometimes" enough to free a
stuck check valve. Say if your system is a 20/40 system, kick up the
pressure to 30/50 or 35/55 temporarily to see if the valve frees itself.
It's best to shut off the water coming out of the pressure tank and going
into the house when you're doing this test. Whatever the results of the
test, set the pressure back to normal when the test is over. If you're not
familiar with adjusting the settings on the pressure switch, it's time to
call the pro.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.