Continuing saga of chlorine and alum-siding:
I phonned the rental-place, and the guy there
said, in response to my "how high can it squirt"
(and that cannot safely use a ladder on steeply-
sloping ground), that the distance for effective
use was something like EIGHT INCHES(!).
What a surprise -- when I'd expected him to same
something like 20 FEET!
(He also said that what he rents are 3500 psi washers, gasoline
powered, $50 for 4hrs, $75 for whole day).
Question: does what he said make any sense?
If he's right, and the effective distance is eight INCHES,
then, given my situation, I don't see how I could get the
Thanks so much!
firstname.lastname@example.org (David Combs) wrote:
I'm not sure what your job is but yes, it makes sense. They aren't good
for anything you can't get close to. When I wash brick or deck or
sidewalk, I keep it about 8-10" away. At 20', you have nothing but mist.
When using the low pressure soap tip
tip will draw chemicals thru the soap
tube and be mixed and sprayed thru
the hose/wand onto your house expect
little pressure but it will spray about
8 ft out of the end of the wand...
When cleaning siding the trick is to get
the chemical on evenly and let it do the
work. do not use high pressure to wash
it off, a wide fan tip starting at the top
will wash it off just fine.
Let's see if I understand your post:
Oh, I'm not trying to "blast" off the (weakened, loosened
somewhat, by the chlorix) mold, your're saying?
No pressure needed, not much anyway?
Well, then, why a pressure-washer anyway?
Why not just a garden-hose with nozzle?
Just replaced the standard wand for my 2000 psi washer with a 59inch one and
washed down my story and a half vinyl sided house without a ladder. No
problem getting all the dirt and cobwebs clear to the eaves at the peak.
Had enough pressure to remove the paint from the wood fascia boards...oh,
well , it was time to repaint them anyway.
Well, removing paint from any nearby boards (above the siding)
is, for me, given that big slope and danger-with-ladder,
a real no-no.
The repainting would be a *real* pain, and expense too,
What hints or tricks or bewares for *not* hitting
any painted-wood hard-enough to remove the paint?
Many do not use pressure washer on vinyl
water shot UP and a high pressure will get between the vinyl and the
insulation and make the insulation rot much faster,....
use a regular hose with a spray..there a chemicals will will remove mildew
and dirt without harming grass and bushes....and allot cheaper, no
expect to pay about $21 for the set up
Yes, pressure washers are for close up use. The price sounds a bit
expensive, but just a bit. I'd look to spend $50-60 for a whole day. Might
depend on area.
Well, there's a "wand" or long handle that is about 4' long. If that's not
enough, then you have to hire someone to do the work, or get a ladder that
will safely negotiate unlevel ground (ladder extenders of some sort).
I suppose I could dig out two or three places in the ground,
making them level, so they could then safely support a ladder.
Or, what do you think of the "extension wands" some others
Ever try one?
They make devices for leveling extension ladders, check out home stores, or
good paint shops, etc.
I just nailed blocks of wood together to get by. I wouldn't recommend
climbing too high on a ladder with a pressure washer.
Yep. I have a house with a 3 story expose in the back, so I needed the
reach. The sucker is really heavy, and takes some getting used to. I have
a 2800 psi gas powered pressure washer, and it fed detergent all the way
thru to the nozzle, even extended to 30'. It was quite cumbersome, but I
did get the job done.
Are you trying to get rid of mold? It sounds like it if you are talking
I have a house with vinyl siding and a small pressure washer. The problem is
that the back of the house is too high up because of the slope of the land
and the fact that that end has a high peak for the pressure washer to do any
The solution: I used a hose end sprayer and filled the jar with bleach, set
the mix valve to the lowest level and sprayed the whole back. Let it sit
for a while, hit a few stubborn spots and a few misses and there you are.
Rinse with clear water if you are inclined, but it seemed to me that
everything dried off nicely.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it lools like
for *applying* the chlorine,
what he did was to use not the pressure-washer but
just some ordinary attach-to-end-of-garden-hose
chemical-sprayer, like eg Ortho makes, for spraying
various garden-chemicals on the grass, bushes, etc,
to kill wee pests.
Then, he says, he didn't wash it off at all;
just left it there to dry?
Am I reading him correctly?
Question: if you *don't* (somewhat) forcefully blast-off
the now-bleached mold, then the (now dead) mold *stays*
on the siding -- you just don't see it so easily, since
it's been bleached?
Is that right?
This job is quickly going from "almost trivial"
to anything but!
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