Yes, probably from the rain, but the lack of vegetation tells me it was
most likely placed this year and is just settling. I see lots of small
stones. Is all the material like that? If so, then water will easily
drain out without taking material with it.
The contour near the curbing seems to have the fill material mounding up
so water will be retained near the curbing. This is bad. You need to
find someway to drain any water in there. Use 4" perforated pipe to move
the water to the end of the fill and let it run off the fill material.
You will need to rake fill material back into the cracks. Then plant
shrubbery so the roots will hold the fill material.
Lots can be done.
Maybe that's not so good advice if this web site is correct.
Old erosion ideas that don't work.
Planting grass on a slope does not stop erosion. Erosion studies have
consistently shown that slopes that were seeded with grass have GREATER
EROSION than anything other than bare ground. (Even dead sticks beat
grass!). Just because the world is full of ignoramuses, you do not have
to do what they do. Don't seed slopes with grass. This ignorance of
seeding grass on slopes to control erosion has been perpetuated for about
100 years and still occurs after fires in some poorly educated sectors of
our country. EVERY study that has ever been done recommends against
seeding grasses. After spending a day trying at the Cal Poly library to
find an article supporting the seeding of grass to control erosion I
could find none. One of former biologists for Forest Service(she quit
over this) spent 10 hours at the UC Santa Barbara library trying to find
documentation for seeding grasses, she could find none. Seeding slopes
after a fire or grading does nothing but destroy the ecosystem for
perpetuity. Bare, grass-covered or ice plant-covered slopes commonly load
up to field capacity (and beyond), while slopes covered with a mix of
native shrubs and trees and perennials rarely do(Patric). In a home
landscaping seeding with grass makes a weedy slope that is very hard to
stabilize and reestablish plants on and it creates a different plant
community, ie. Weeds.
The type of mulch, placed on top of the ground, is very important in the
management of a slope susceptible to erosion. See the mulch page for
appropriate types of mulch to use. If you use the wrong type of mulch the
plants will not grow very well, weeds could be introduced, and erosion
could be increased!
Plastic is for bags, soda bottles, and children's toys. If you stuck
those items on the hillside they would be about as attractive and
effective for erosion control. (After a few years the plastic 'weed
barrier', 'mulch' or 'erosion matting' has curled and is sticking up in
amongst the weeds.) I removed some of this stuff off of a 'restoration
project' (in a shady spot) near San Luis Obispo a few years ago. The
ground was practically bald (nothing much was alive) after 2 years,
except a little annual rye grass. Next to the plastic, there was near-
normal recovery. In other places where this plastic matting was used
(sunny spots) the weeds had gone crazy. Short term solution that is a
long term pain.
Straw.(Straw punch, Straw mats)
Straw is for animal bedding. On slopes it works for about 15 minutes
during the first rainfall. Then the hillside is a weedy, muddy mess and
the straw is somewhere else. Also, you have just introduced a massive
amount of weed seeds. As with grass, the erosion is greater with straw
than mulch, plants, boulders, walls or anything other than loose dirt.
If you like erosion, fire, gophers and mice, put straw around your
house. Straw=weeds= rodents=erosion.
This straw blanket slid off of the this slope with the first good rain -
Straw is for horse bedding, not erosion control or slope landscaping. A
straw blanket/mat slope before the rain.
jute doesn't do much for bank stabilization - grid24_12
Straw mat hillside sliding away after a few light rainfalls. Should have
been terraced with cross drains, mulched and planted.
Malibu uses concrete as 'erosion' control. Weird! The coastal sage scrub
is beautiful and stable. Some dummy clears the 'brush' and plants grass,
the hillside slides, so they cover it with cement that gradually cracks,
costs a fortune, looks UGLY, and is dead. And after about twenty years,
the concrete falls off of the slope. Also if the water doesn't go into
your soil, it's running on to the neighbors slopes and causing more
Ice plant, 'red apple', and grasses like Red fescue,
They all behave the same way in a wet year. These plants are not
appropriate to control erosion on a slope because 1) they are alien
plants and not part of our natural plant community, 2) they have very
shallow roots. 3) they are heavy.
The slopes load up with rain water to full saturation and then shed/slide
off. The top vegetation actually ADDS to the weight of the slope. It
feels just like a wet shag carpet, and the roots are about as deep. I
wish the news people would get it right; it usually isn't mud slides,
it's ice plant or 'grassland' slides.
Plant some oak trees, their root systems will help stabilize the
Just another hazard of "view property"... bummer :(
Why are accountants so amazingly cheap & stupid?
Based on my experience (limited data sample, though) this seems to be
Pay a soils engineer or grading contractor to come have a look.
Give this a try
How far down the gully does the land fill go? Is the water draining off the
driveway onto the new fill? If so reroute it away from the fill. If water is
collecting at the top of the fill, dig a swale to drain it away. Possibly a
tarp covering the area will keep water out until you can stabilize it. The
slope looks to be a 1 to 1 (45 degree) slope, making it unstable, it really
should be a 1 to 3 slope and compacted.
Research deep rooted vegetation and arrange to get a lot of it planted as
soon as possible after correcting some of the problems with the hill.
On Tue, 04 Dec 2012 00:55:52 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
The Landslide Handbook—A Guide to Understanding Landslides
By Lynn M. Highland, United States Geological Survey, and Peter Bobrowsky,
Geological Survey of Canada http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/1325 /
SOIL BIOENGINEERING FOR UPLAND SLOPE STABILIZATION
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