Poor man's indoor heat pump - would it work?

Would it work to appreciably cool a room for the power used to put a fan blowing air over a pan of water (maybe layered with wet sponges?) at about

85 to 95 degrees F (dew point 65%) and about 50% relative humidity inside?
Reply to
gtr
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Doubt you'd see any difference. You'd need a good sized pan and low humidity.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Maybe a block of ice, the 1920's solution.

Reply to
rbowman

I have fooled around with that before. It does not work. You have to force the air through the medium like a swap cooler does. And you need a wetting agent too. Seventh Generation free and clear disk washing soap works great. Keeps the algae down too

Reply to
T

Yes.

No.

Dont get any algae in mine.

Reply to
4587Joey

in addition to what others have said, you don't have much margin there to work with. Swamp coolers work in AZ and similar because it's hot and dry. At 85 and

50%, if you cooled it the resulting increase in humidity would probably result in an environment that didn't feel much better, could be worse.
Reply to
trader_4

The math here is beyond me, but afaik they only use swamp coolers where the humidity is a lot lower than 50%, probably because they don't work where it's 50%.

You don't have a 2nd floor with a laundry chute to the basement, do you? You could put a fan in the upstairs opening blowing cool basement air to the second floor. Might be worth 4 degrees or so cooling on the second floor.

Reply to
micky

Why would it work for a while but not for very long? Why wouldn't it work all summer?

Reply to
micky

I'm formulating a plan to build a system using my well water to HEAT a tunnel greenhouse in the winter ...

Reply to
Snag

Geothermal can work well with the right heat exchanger. Since you are heating you don't have to go too deep.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

The top of the pump is 43 feet down , I haven't checked the water temp but I'd bet is right around 56° . IIRC that's the temp in the Blanchard Springs Cavern system , a local tourist attraction and a pretty cool place . (pun intended)

Reply to
Snag

Unless he includes a heat pump it's not going to heat very much. Even if you made the heat exchanger very large, it's limited to ~50F incoming water. Might be enough to keep it from freezing in some climates, but I don't think it's going to work very well for plants that expect warm temperatures.

Reply to
trader_4

The general rule of thumb is that the near-surface temperature (first few hundred feet) is the same as the annual average surface temperature.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

I don't know what the average temp is here , but I checked today and the water is at 58° F .

Reply to
Snag

Damn that sound like a fun project. Please do let us all know how it turns out!

Will you be heat pumping or just exchanging?

"Greenhouse"? I might be envious of that too. Maybe. I ain't saying.

Reply to
T

Huh?? I wonder why they put soap in those blue pads I buy?

Reply to
T

That isn't going to last long.

I have never used a wetting agent in the 50 years I have run mine and it has always worked fine.

Reply to
4587Joey

It certainly does not. The best substitute I have found is 7th gen's free and clear dish soap. I asked the pad manufacturer what they were using, but the ass holes ghosted me.

And since using 7th gen, I have not had to change my pads every year now for 4 years now. (I have to be careful that they do not calcify up though.) And no algae build up. Pad stink like hell when that happens.

And I get a good 10 degree extra drop when I get the wetting agent correct.

What kind of pads are you running? Cedar?

What outside temperature are you running it against?

And what is your relative humidity?

Reply to
T

On 6/11/22 23:05, 4587Joey wrote: And you need a wetting agent too. No.

Huh?? I wonder why they put soap in those blue pads I buy?

That isn't going to last long.

I have never used a wetting agent in the 50 years I have run mine and it has always worked fine.

It certainly does not.

Have fun explaining why it has for me for over 50 years now.

The best substitute I have found is 7th gen's free and clear dish soap.

I don't use anything and it works fine.

I asked the pad manufacturer what they were using, but the ass holes ghosted me.

And since using 7th gen, I have not had to change my pads every year now for 4 years now.

I don't change mine at anything even remotely like that rate.

Only changed them twice in 50 years.

(I have to be careful that they do not calcify up though.)

Don't have that problem at all. Just end up with holes in the wood wool pads when they need replacing.

And no algae build up.

Never get that either.

Pad stink like hell when that happens.

Never get that either.

And I get a good 10 degree extra drop when I get the wetting agent correct.

I get much better that with no wetting agent at all.

What kind of pads are you running? Cedar?

Wood wool, no idea what type of wood.

What outside temperature are you running it against?

Not at all unusual to get 10 days at 48C most summers,

And what is your relative humidity?

Normally single digits.

Reply to
4587Joey

This will be straight heat exchange , in fact my neighbor offered me a heat exchanger/fan unit he bought for a project that he decided not to do . This is all in the "what if" phase right now , but I'm looking ahead to a time when we won't be getting produce deliveries from south of the border . Something else I'm thinking about is adding LPG capability to our gas generator , since we have a 250 gallon propane tank now . EVERYTHING is dependent of a supply of energy these days ...

Reply to
Snag

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