The threaded pipe joint I installed last week for one of my home's hot
water radiators is leaking a little. It it now obvious to me that I
didn't put enough pipe dope on when I installed. I would prefer to
wait a few days before I redo because we're in the middle of a cold
spell. But the pipe orientation makes it difficult to catch the drip,
so I want it to stop. Would plumbers epoxy putty work here? or would
the heat and lack of smooth surface (i.e. threads) doom this patch job
to instant failure? And if it does work, would I be able to remove
the putty or does it harden so strong that I won't be able to break it
off. I never worked with this stuff before, so I'm not familiar.
stupid combination doomed to failure. Use one or the other only. I
personally prefer the Teflon tape over the pipe dope. I never really
had any luck with the pipe dope. It hardens when it does work and then
is a bear to get apart for any other repairs.
On Jan 4, 8:47 am, email@example.com wrote:
In general it's hard to stop a leak with something applied to the
outside. I take it this is not a joint where you can just try
tightening it some more without taking things apart. If it is awkward
to position a bowl or something in there to catch the drips, maybe you
could get creative with an absorbent rag, with maybe a piece of
aluminum foil under it keep the moisture off the floor.
On Jan 4, 9:47 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you are referring to the "rolls" of two part epxoy putty that you
cut and then knead together, I would think that it should work fine.
The lack of smooth surface is a plus since you want a rough surface to
give epoxy something to grab on to. I always rough up smooth surfaces
when using epoxy to give it some "bite".
As far as the heat, check the package of whatever brand you buy. The
Pro Poxy 20 available at this site says it can withstand temps up to
300 F. http://www.herchem.com/products/putty_epoxy.html
You should be able to break the seal when you are ready for a
permanent repair, although a complete clean up might take a little
time, since the epoxy will be in between the threads, etc. A dremel-
like tool with the appropriate bit comes to mind for the clean-up.
I'd give the putty a try and if it holds, I'd leave it in place until
spring when you can take your time with the clean-up and permanent
BTW the only thing I don't like about the epoxy putty is that Billy
Mays is now hawking something called Mighty Putty which appears to be
the same type of product. <g>
Yes, that's what I 'm referring to. I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the advice (and I agree with your observation about Billy
Epoxy on the outside of the joint is very unlikely to hold against water
pressure. It will however, make fixing the joint correctly much more difficult.
Fixing it correctly would be a lot smarter.
While I would never disagree that a proper plumbing connection without
the use of "external materials" is the best idea, the type of epoxy we
are discussing here may indeed work in this application. See the
description of Pro Poxy 20 at this site: http://www.herchem.com/specs/propoxy20.pdf
If the leak is slow enough (i.e. not a lot of pressure) it may indeed
work just fine. I have repaired a cracked PVC trap and an aluminum
gutter with similiar products, both of which had a fairly steady drip.
The trap repair lasted for many, many years until I replaced the sink.
(The gutter was replaced soon after the repair.)
Again - a permanent repair is the best idea, but if the OP is
reluctant to dismantle the heating system during the winter, using the
epoxy putty as a stop-gap might fit the bill.
Whatever Billy is yakking about has nothing to do with what the product
will do. He's just a pitch man, a very good one and probably a rich one
by now. Ever notice how over the years his profile has changed? In the
most recent one with him selling jock straps for pet rats or something,
the back of his belt above his ass was like a foot higher then the
buckle. Waiting for him to sell some mirror gizmo you can epoxy to your
gut so you can see your dink again.
Take it apart . clean the threads wrap 5 to 6 revolutions of Teflon tape
tight around threads ( Looking at the end you are going to wrap go
clockwise) then apply pipe dope the best is the type with Teflon in it
Rectorseal T plus 2 Teflon enriched thread sealant.
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