I hate working on ceiling areas :)
Another classic - peeling ceiling paint in a bathroom. We've had this happen before, the paint peels, and then lifts away from the wallboad. In fact - you can slice it away with a 6" wide blade.
Ok - we've sliced away the peeling areas - and will do our usual Kilz primer & bathroom paint..
BUT - what is the special surgical technique to apply a joint compound slurry to feather the peeled paint edges ?
A gentle hand and many tries, you typically have to either build up the entire peeled area, or else feather it over a 12 inch span to avoid it being visible.
I usually just skimcoat the entire ceiling as it is USUALLY repainted with a gloss paint and anything else will stick out like a sore thumb and look like crap..I use Easysand Setting Type Compound for the first coat for a good bond then regular mud for the other coats..I would also suggest fixing the moisture problem (fan&vent) first...HTH...
Personally I use the setting type on the last coat or 2 because it will not loose the feathering as regular mud does when rolling paint on it.
HUH ?? Do you mean it doesn't shrink as much ?? If so that is the reason I use it for the first coat...Get the heavy stuff done with a good bond and no shrinkage , scrape it done a bit then skim it tight a couple of times with regular mud and you don't hardly have to sand it...smooth as a baby's butt...LOL...But hey , whatever works fer ya...
Do you know for sure that it's "wallboard"?
I had continual problems with peeling paint on the *plaster* ceiling in my bathroom.
I finally got so tired of patching and painting every few years that I covered the plaster with 1/4 drywall, taped, primed and painted it using quality materials and haven't had a peeling problem in 10 years.
Whatever was the orginal cause of the failing paint is now buried under the drywall.
Do you know for sure that it's "wallboard"?
I had continual problems with peeling paint on the *plaster* ceiling in my bathroom.
I finally got so tired of patching and painting every few years that I covered the plaster with 1/4 drywall, taped, primed and painted it using quality materials and haven't had a peeling problem in 10 years.
Whatever was the orginal cause of the failing paint is now buried under the drywall.
You could have accompolished the same thing by coating the entire ceilg with Durabond or Easysand as well...
No. the stuff you get in a bucket washes off with water and latex paint. Get a nice feather edge and that feather edge is gone when you roll on the paint. Not so with the setting type. You keep the feather edge with the setting type, but not with the bucket mud. Doesn't matter if you spray or texture.
P.S. I have had a good invisible patch job in only 2 coats.
WTF are you talking about ?? I don't typically wash anything with water...Maybe that's your problem..Or smoking to much pot...LOL...
Okay, I'll bite. What do you wash out your drywall tools with? And what does that have to do with rolling latex paint washing off the feather edges of bucket/box mud exposing the patch job?
ok - just to continue with this story......
It all relates to the orignal owners & lack of "proper" priming the room prior to painting it or putting up wallpaper...
--------------- update -
Pulled off the wallpaper in the bathroom with a steamer, and now recall - 20yrs ago - why we put paper up when we moved in...
The walls also have the same problem where the original paint job did not really adhere to the bare wallboard and you can slice small 6" sections away with a 6" wide blade.
SO - I've done the same thing I did with the ceiling. I've been gently working with my 6" blade, and slicing away the "free" sections of paint until the blade stops at the point of "adhering" paint.
SO - now I have this bathroom that looks like a world map, with various areas of paint, bare wallboard, etc -
Outside of mud, feather, etc - is there any other "technique" that can be used to cover over the tiny edge of where the remaining paint layers end like a microscopic cliff and meet the bare wallboard ?
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