We seal the edge of the tape with a very small bead of cheap caulking which
is also spread as thin as possible with your finger, then paint. The
caulking will keep any paint from bleeding under the tape.
"We"? Just curious.
Anyway, I've never used blue painters tape. Not sure what the premium
price is for. Doesn't wick maybe? Low adhesion? Masking tapes come in
various adhesions (1,2,3,x day, etc).
I have used the brown painter's tape gummed on one edge on one side.
Works excellent on glass (grids that are fixed). Being rigid laterally,
it gives a nice straight line. Would not be good where a wall meets a
ceiling since that is never really straight. Developed a knack for
freehanding that pretty well.
I dunno what constitutes a "premium" price - I usually pay about $1.50
for a roll of painters tape, doesn't seem too unreasonable...
I'm the opposite of you, I've never really understood what plain
masking tape is good for. We used it once because we ran out of
painters tape and, like everybody else, we just keep masking tape
around the house for little odd projects. Well, obviously, the paint
seeped right through it. It wasn't that it went under the edge, it
just seeped right through the tape. We ended up having to go out and
buy some painters tape anyway and then repaint the edge.
I'm not sure what the point of masking tape really is, but it
obviously isn't to mask paint.
As far as getting a straight edge, like a lot of things in painting I
think people make it out to be a lot more complicated than it is.
Tape, paint, pull off, done. If you don't do any one of those steps
properly, you won't get a straight edge. Do them properly, though,
and you will.
It *was* to mask paint, but 3M came up with the blue tape, which was a very
superior product. Now that 'masking tape' isn't actually used to mask for
household paint much, some inferior (compared even to the old masking tape)
product has gotten out there which are OK for the other odd uses.
As far as cost - I agree; blue tape isn't *that* much more, and I value my
*time* that I'm putting into a project enough to make little investments to make
it come out right the first time.
The number of coats depends on type of paint and what color you need to
cover. I haven't found a paint
that is "one coat", regardless of how it is advertised. Some deep
colors, esp. blue and red, are labelled
to indicate they require more coats - just the nature of certain pigments.
If the wall isn't textured, then painter's tape will work fine if used
correctly - it is not the same as beige
masking tape, and there are different degrees of adhesion. Blue and
The paint should be cured, not just dry, in order to be sure the tape
won't pull off new coat of paint. I've
taped over new paint after 2 days, but to be sure it won't hurt to wait
couple of weeks. Press the tape
firmly when you apply it, and take it off before the new paint sets,
otherwise you might pull off the paint film
that has dried onto the tape. When you pull the tape off, don't pull it
out from the wall - start the end of
tape and pull it flat back on itself; that helps keep paint film from
pulling off wall.
You might find that the corner of a wall is not perfectly straight and
plumb - often see little curves. Adjust
your tape to get it so it looks right before you paint. Use good paint,
not the HD crap.
1. Paint the wall with the base color. Let dry.
2. Apply tape where you want it.
3. Paint another coat of base color only over the edge of the tape. Let
dry. (Any paint that seeps under the tape will match the base color,
and the edge of the tape will be sealed against further seepage.)
4. Paint accent color. Let dry.
5. Remove tape.
Here\'s some of my work:
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