That would be great. It's sometimes hard to believe the things you add to the gas tank can do that much, but even when I thought that, it was worth $20 or 30 for various injector cleaners compared to the alternatives. (I still have a bottle of the Autozone brand. It was by far the cheapest, $3 or 4.)
Huh! I wouldn't have thought of that.
Or that. Thanks.
Barring the return of the codes, I think I'm a big believer in Techron now.
I think this is what you mean:
Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 1-Sensor 1)1.065 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 1-Sensor 1)(V)3.573 Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 2-Sensor 1)1.137 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 2-Sensor 1)(V)3.760
---------------------- Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 1-Sensor 1)1.014 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 1-Sensor 1)(V)3.304 Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 2-Sensor 1)0.949 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 2-Sensor 1)(V)2.980
---------------------- Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 1-Sensor 1)0.982 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 1-Sensor 1)(V)3.160 Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 2-Sensor 1)0.953 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 2-Sensor 1)(V)3.028
---------------------- Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 1-Sensor 1)0.993 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 1-Sensor 1)(V)3.299 Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 2-Sensor 1)1.010 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 2-Sensor 1)(V)3.307
---------------------- Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 1-Sensor 1)0.992 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 1-Sensor 1)(V)3.300 Equivalence Ration (lambda)(Bank 2-Sensor 1)1.094 Oxygen Sensor Voltage (Bank 2-Sensor 1)(V)3.553
----------------------
So what they call voltages are more than zero and less than 12, and go up and down around 3.1 to 3.6. So does that imply they are good?
I was going to take the connector apart and measure the resistance, but it looked like I had to take off the air intake "funnel" first, and then, it seems, the car started working right!
I went back and reread your original post. All the numbers were there. I was my mistake for overlooking them. The numbers look just fine. A bit on the rich side but that is probably due to the low engine temp ~150F. Don't really see anything wrong.
Techron is one of the better ones generally available - along with sea foam and BG 144K and it's little brother, BG TuneUp)
Technically they oscillate between 0 and 5. The wider the swing the better.
OOPS!!! normal O2 sensor between 1 and zero, late model Toyotas (with wide band O2 sensor) 0 to 3.3
That's good. There must have been some vacuum leak, and I suppose it will reappear**.
What I should do is use the scan tool to get the same sort of readings when it's working right, and maybe I can find one or more values that are different from when it was working wrong, and maybe if/when it starts working wrong again, someone can sit in the car watching just that/those values, and when I fiddle with the right hose, or blast the right 02/fuel sensor, he's see the change and tell me.
**After all, it showed up in March when the previous owner had it, then in October. The mechanic who looked at in March might have touched the same hose or whatever I touched. Actually, the CEL and the VSC and Trac*** lights were all on and they all went off a day or two after I bought the car. Then when I was playing with the transmission, putting it in first gear to go down a steep but short hill, the light went on and it's been on almost all of the time since then. ***The owners manual says that the Trac (Off) light will come on when the VSC light is on. But still, maybe I should have mentioned the other two lights. I apologize, although I was only hurting myself.I think this was a very good thread. Even if what I learned didn't directly fix the car, I still learned a lot.
Unless it was partly clogged injectors and the Techron cured it, at least for 2 or 3000 miles.
Right. And as someone else here pointed out, it's likely on the intake gaskets because they are a known problem on those engines.
Well, just watching the readings should be sufficient. If you manage to block the leak or get propane into the leak instead of air or the like, the numbers will change immediately and obviously and then return back once you remove your hand or the propane torch from the leak.
But you also know that the intake gaskets are bad, and if they aren't causing this problem, they are likely going to cause another.
--scott
I assume you read that Toyota tech bulletin that Clare provided? It applied to a very specific leak, at the shaft on the throttle body or air volume control, whatever you choose to call it. Did you check there?
That tech bulletin said to watch short term fuel trim while doing the spray test.
I checked everywhere.
And I did read the TSB, and it is exactly my codes and my model car, but it also provided a list of VINs, of Production Change Effective VIN, a term I don't understand.
But still I think mine isn't in the list. The 4th character and everything except the last 3 after that was different, so I figure it doesn't apply to me.
It listed Camry 4T1BA3#K*4u502118 Solara 4T1CA3#K*4u017744
And I'm Solara 4T1FA38P55U044744
However I did spray carb cleaner where they said to, and nothing happened. I'd already tried propane all around there.
I gather that if the codes are cleared, when the code is set again, many scan tools including mine will take a freeze frame. But that's not the same as spraying and having the fuel trim change. How does a person notice that when he's alone? Put the scanner on the dash facing out?
Anyhow, I'm going for a longer drive now with the scan tool attached.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
I was thinking it might have made a ground path... But then again WTF do I know?
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