Outlet recessed too much

What exposed wires? If the wire nut is put on properly, there are no exposed wires. If it's not, putting tape on it isn't the solution.

It generally

A waste of time, an extra step that really doesn't add anything?

Reply to
trader_4
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Taught by who?

Again, taught by who: (and when?)) The old AC type cable and the old type connectors REQUIRE he use of "redheads" Tape does not meat the requirement. Howeverr, with type MC cable and the approved connectors for type MC cable, no bushing is required when properly installed because the connector prevents the wires from contacting the cut end of the cable armor. Because the "properly installed" can be a little tricky I tend to err on the side of being cautious and install redheads on all armoured cable. WAY back, a few wraps of "friction tape" were used in place of the redheads - plastic tape and cloth based "friction tape" are two completely different products

Tape is moree likely to allow the "romex" to pull out of a clamp than to help any. You are talking about the "cable clamp" that allows the romex to securely enter a Junction box, correct??? Was this back in the day od the tar/paper sheithed "romex"???

OK - you are talking about Friction tape - so you are talking the sixties or earlier???

Products and procedures have changed a LOT since then. What may have been common practice back then won't even pass code/inspection today.

+2 on that. Plastic boxes, although meeting minimum code, are a CURSE.

When pigtailing copper to aluminum in those situations where approved aluminum compatible devices are not available I use stranded copper to eliminate strain on the copper/aluminum connections. If done using Marrette63 or 63 connectors (prown phenolic) it is code compliant - particularly if the joint is made using no-ox type compound on the joint.

Reply to
clare

Wgat about the lumber stud the box is fastened to??? On steel studs you could make a case.

Reply to
clare

There should never be ANY exposed wire in a properly installed wire nut. If tape is required, it is not properly installed, and if it is taped any competent inspector is going to assume it is NOT properly installed.

Aluminum wire is still perfectly safe IF PROPERLY INSTALLED.

No they could not. Tape does not make the connection electrically solid. Any fires caused by aluminum wire and/or poor workmanship installing it were not from the wire coming off and contacting ground and would NOT be prevented by taping the connection.

Because it can conseal bad workmanship but cannot correct it or mitigate damage resulting from said poor workmanship.

It's a HACK.

Reply to
clare

I deffinitely dissagree with you.

Reply to
clare

I still say it is a "hack" job.

Reply to
clare

| Wgat about the lumber stud the box is fastened to??? | On steel studs you could make a case.

Usually the box is extending 1/2" past the stud. A typical situation I run into is someone who wants me to tile a kitchen backsplash. With concrete board and tile I'm coming out about 1/2", but that's 1/2" beyond the drywall. The material that a spark could actually hit is mortar and tile.

|ttcc| dddd| wwwwwwwwww |___ |____ |_______________________ | | RRR | electrical box | RRR | |

t=tile. c=concrete board. d=drywall. w=wood. R=receptacle.

That's legal. To reach the wood, a spark would have to travel 1/2"+ backward, assuming there's even a gap between the drywall and box. But I also tape the receptacle, so don't worry. :)

Reply to
Mayayana

| Aluminum wire is still perfectly safe IF PROPERLY INSTALLED. | Maybe in Canada. In the US it's been banned since, I think, the 70s, except for specific uses like stove "pigtail" connectors. It caused a lot of fires. It's not allowed for general use in house wiring because it corrodes and then arcs. It doesn't matter if it's installed properly. That's why it's banned. The corrosion is the problem, not the installation. Though of course if you want to use it in your house, I'd use tape over receptacle terminals if I were you. :)

| > Those fires | >could have been prevented with a little tape. | | No they could not. Tape does not make the connection electrically | solid. Any fires caused by aluminum wire and/or poor workmanship | installing it were not from the wire coming off and contacting ground | and would NOT be prevented by taping the connection.

I've seen them in action -- outlets where there's arcing because of extreme corrosion. Your missing the point repeatedly because you're stuck on the notion you cooked up that I'm advocating connecting wires with tape. If you'd just read what people write instead of competing all the time it would make the discussion clearer and more brief.

Reply to
Mayayana

Three licensed master electrician uncles. I'd tag along to job sites (always handy to have a kid with lots of energy to pull cables "down the other end") and pester them with questions. And, the "easy things" would fall into my lap (perhaps as a way to keep me from asking MORE questions!).

None were related to each other so only had "me" in common. And, rarely dealt with two on the same "job". So, if Uncle1 had taught me something that Uncle2 didn't endorse, you can bet I'd hear about it!

See above. I've not used BX since I was a kid. Houses were typically wired with 14/2 or 12/2 BX, back then (no grounds).

When I need flexibility, now, I use liquid-tite flexible conduit. E.g., typically outdoors (connect AC compressor to its disconnect; connect swamp cooler; etc.).

Anything indoors is ROMEX. Anything outdoors is EMT.

Yup.

Lots of "inspector eyes" on work I've done, over the years. *My* habits haven't changed -- yet none have complained about these practices. Some have commented (but not flagged) on my "upside down" receptacles.

Caught some flack over an overly large wire nut one time (inspector claimed I could have used next smaller size and saved some space in the box). Also get lots of comments regarding spacings on low voltage cabling.

IME, they are primarily concerned with:

- neatness (does it LOOK like it was planned vs. /ad hoc/?)

- "respect" (for want of a better word) for the job they are doing

- grounds

I think they are fine for brand new construction -- if the house is eventually demolished before any of them see any rework!

But, IME, opening up a plastic box is just inviting SOMETHING to go wrong!

And, bakelite ("an early plastic") boxes are the worst!

Eschew aluminum. I don't see that it buys you anything. A neighbor had his load center catch fire due to corrosion on aluminum cables. "OK, which one of you wants to walk up to it and pull the main?"

Reply to
Don Y

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