On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 12:01:19 PM UTC-5, Mayayana wrote:
It's not and as others have said, I've seen a lot of
switches and receptacles and I've never seen a single
one tape wrapped. No point to it. An inspector would
take one look and know it's the work of a hack.
That is how I was taught to install "devices" (switch/receptacle)
in boxes. A few loops around the SIDES of the device (start
on one side, up to the top, down the other side, under the bottom,
back up the first side, etc.). The mounting screws in the yoke
at top and bottom require a bit of skill to navigate around
(don't want to cut the tape). And, you don't want the tape to
slip too far forward and become visible around the edge of the
device after the faceplate is installed.
Was also taught to tug on the conductors in a cut piece of BX
to pull them out of the armor, a bit, then wrap them with tape
before letting them slip back into the sheath (the thinking
being the tape helps protect the wires from the sharp edge of
the BX). Nowadays you can buy little plastic inserts.
Also taught to wrap ROMEX with a few layers of tape before
putting it under a cable clamp.
In every case, you really need quality tape. When I was taught,
the tape was *cloth* and much thicker. Sort of like double-sided
tape (but with very low tack).
OTOH, most folks use plastic boxes, nowadays (I replace plastic
Jboxes with metal whenever I get the chance). And, unless you're
using a lot of #12AWG, devices tend to stay where you place them
(not a lot of pressure trying to push the device out of position
from crunched wires)
[I tend to use oversize boxes so I'm not fighting trying to cram
EXACTLY the maximum number of volume units into a given box. Nor
worried that the threaded PLASTIC boss to which the device will fasten
will "strip" from the pressure of all that "volume"]
Again, taught by who: (and when?))
The old AC type cable and the old type connectors REQUIRE he use of
"redheads" Tape does not meat the requirement.
Howeverr, with type MC cable and the approved connectors for type MC
cable, no bushing is required when properly installed because the
connector prevents the wires from contacting the cut end of the cable
armor. Because the "properly installed" can be a little tricky I tend
to err on the side of being cautious and install redheads on all
armoured cable. WAY back, a few wraps of "friction tape" were used in
place of the redheads - plastic tape and cloth based "friction tape"
are two completely different products
Tape is moree likely to allow the "romex" to pull out of a clamp than
to help any. You are talking about the "cable clamp" that allows the
romex to securely enter a Junction box, correct??? Was this back in
the day od the tar/paper sheithed "romex"???
OK - you are talking about Friction tape - so you are talking the
sixties or earlier???
Products and procedures have changed a LOT since then. What may have
been common practice back then won't even pass code/inspection today.
+2 on that. Plastic boxes, although meeting minimum code, are a CURSE.
When pigtailing copper to aluminum in those situations where approved
aluminum compatible devices are not available I use stranded copper to
eliminate strain on the copper/aluminum connections. If done using
Marrette63 or 63 connectors (prown phenolic) it is code compliant -
particularly if the joint is made using no-ox type compound on the
On 3/5/2016 6:28 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Three licensed master electrician uncles. I'd tag along to job
sites (always handy to have a kid with lots of energy to pull
cables "down the other end") and pester them with questions.
And, the "easy things" would fall into my lap (perhaps as a way
to keep me from asking MORE questions!).
None were related to each other so only had "me" in common.
And, rarely dealt with two on the same "job". So, if Uncle1
had taught me something that Uncle2 didn't endorse, you can
bet I'd hear about it!
See above. I've not used BX since I was a kid. Houses were typically
wired with 14/2 or 12/2 BX, back then (no grounds).
When I need flexibility, now, I use liquid-tite flexible conduit.
E.g., typically outdoors (connect AC compressor to its disconnect;
connect swamp cooler; etc.).
Anything indoors is ROMEX. Anything outdoors is EMT.
Lots of "inspector eyes" on work I've done, over the years. *My*
habits haven't changed -- yet none have complained about these
practices. Some have commented (but not flagged) on my "upside down"
Caught some flack over an overly large wire nut one time (inspector
claimed I could have used next smaller size and saved some space in
the box). Also get lots of comments regarding spacings on low voltage
IME, they are primarily concerned with:
- neatness (does it LOOK like it was planned vs. /ad hoc/?)
- "respect" (for want of a better word) for the job they are doing
I think they are fine for brand new construction -- if the house is
eventually demolished before any of them see any rework!
But, IME, opening up a plastic box is just inviting SOMETHING to go
And, bakelite ("an early plastic") boxes are the worst!
Eschew aluminum. I don't see that it buys you anything. A neighbor
had his load center catch fire due to corrosion on aluminum cables.
"OK, which one of you wants to walk up to it and pull the main?"
Manyayna isn't a craftsman or a competent tradesman - certainly not
an electrician.. If his workmanship is so sloppy that the wires on a
switch or outlet can contact the box, and if he leaves plates off of
outlets or switches, or in any other way leaces the connections
accessible to "kids" he should keep his paws off of anything
electrical and hire an electriciam.
| Manyayna isn't a craftsman or a competent tradesman - certainly not
| an electrician.. If his workmanship is so sloppy that the wires on a
| switch or outlet can contact the box, and if he leaves plates off of
| outlets or switches, or in any other way leaces the connections
| accessible to "kids" he should keep his paws off of anything
| electrical and hire an electriciam.
Rather harsh. Can I assume, then, that
you disagree with me, or is this you being
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