yeah, my problem with the computers, et al. could very likely be the
wiring. My VOM tells me that the AC is 125 instead of 120 or 110.
don't have an osciliscope to look for spikes but I bet they are all
over. --do I have to get that AC down to at least 120? I assume the
125 (I've measure it with three different VOMs is because my house is
the 1st on the power line transformer?
My best bet then is to go out and buy a bunch of 20 amp GFCI from
Harbor Freight? --will they work without being grounded?
I hope the GFCIs will protect me at least to the point of a fault and
subsequent shock, not kill me.
Do I need one--at the head outlet (if I can find it--suggestions as how
to do that?) or replace everyt receptical throught the house and mark
The GFprotectors at Harbor Freight are $6 for a 20 amp . Is that a
good price or should I go to Lowes/Home Depot and get cartons of them?
For an actual outside ground that I could bring inside, I'd have to
drive a rod into the ground. Then attack copperbraid to it and bring
it inside to a terminal from which I can, with wire, connect that to
the circuit box. (At least that's how it was done many years ago, when
a single room on the house where I grew up was rewired. Here though,
about all it will do is ground the panel.)
Using a cold water pipe, I don't think will work. Correct me if I am
As soon as it goes out of the house, it connects to the city mains by
What's the best way to get a copy of the code for my city, without
raising any questions as to what I am doing?
Dick Adams wrote:
Yes. You are supposed to label the outlets as not being grounded but the
label, obviously, doesn't protect anyone.
Well, you can start at the "head" and find out what outlets go out when you
"test." If you have a few places where you might EXPECT faults you might
want to have a separate GFCI there even if you have to put some others on
Remember that most of your real loads are just two wires. Whether the
outlet (or the house) as a good ground just doesn't make any difference.
That's pretty good.
There SHOULD be a ground at the meter and/or the service entrace. At this
point neutral is bonded to ground.
You find the "ground" that was bonded with the neutral at the service
entrance or meter box and you make damn sure you bond any "extra" grounds
(water pipe, extra rods) to that "official" ground.
Unless it's a very small town, you just go to where the permits are issued
and ask. You don't need a reason: it should be a public document.
Yeah, off to get GFCI, now just have to decided between 15 or 20 amps.
I see at the panel both kind of breakers.
My father-in-law, a retired electrician who wired large warehouses and
the like, just cursed and cursed as he worked--finally giving up on
The panel he put in is a 100 amp with a main. Can I count on that to
kill the power to the breaker box if I'm going to be fooling around in
it trying to establish a ground?
In looking at the power meters, I can see no sign of a
ground--anywhere. They must have used water pipe? I see a stranded,
heavy wire that goes to the meter, but don't know if that's supposed to
be a ground/neutral or just there to hold up the other two wires.
All the water pipe in the house is no longer grounded--some since it
ran into PVC was never grounded.
The reason for using plastic (PVC or whatever it's called) to the city
mains is because the hard water here eats real pipe like it was candy.
People with metal pipe have to replace it every five years or so.
Those with PVC seems to last 10-15. So all the plumbers put in that in
John Gilmer wrote:
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