New electrical circuit - requesting assistance

[Clare Snyder]

In my shed I have 2 solar motion sensing led "security lights" - one in the main floor area and one in the attic. Makes it so I can see whatever U'm looking for. If I need to WORK in the shed I generally use my cordless tools but I also have a 12 guauge ext cord that I can run from the garage. If I need 220 I can fire up the generator I store in the shed (after moving it outside, of course) The solar lights have roughly 8 inch square solar panel each mounted to the south facing gabel of the roof.

[micky]

Welcome to AHR, Barb.

But it's better that he preface his statement with "I believe that" than that he make a flat statement when he's not sure (as some people do).

And since he might have been right and he was partially right, its better that he puts the thought on the table for people to consider, and so gfretwell can modify his thought to make it accurate.

[Clare Snyder]

As long as he uses deep boxes and shallow devices. I much prefer using a blind junction box (no devices - blank cover) if not installing a disconnect or "sub panel" with breakers to break down from heavy wire to light. Pushing around stiff wires in the device box is a good way to stress the wirenut connection - possibly causing future problems.

[Clare Snyder]

Darn things should never have been listed in the first place. Just trouble waiting to happen.

[Clare Snyder]

My single strip 4 foot LED lamp is 17 watts and puts out more light than my old 2 tube flourescent in the garage over the lathe

[Jim Joyce]

Yep, it's pretty impressive how the new lighting is brighter (in lumens), cooler (higher temp, closer to daylight), and also draws less power. I like all three of those things, although I know that some people prefer the golden glows of warmer light.

[Jim Joyce]

Thanks. I'll be keeping that in mind. I agree with that observation.

[Jim Joyce]

Please, no encouragement needed. :) It wouldn't take a whole lot for me to say FU to the HOA and put a whole roof full of full size solar panels on the south half of the shed roof. It's a 16x16 roof, so there's probably room for what, half a dozen or more, solar panels? Then the rest of the pieces required to run that power into a bank of batteries and then convert it to 120vac for use at standard lighting and receptacles. Higher initial cost, but it's pretty sweet after that. I don't think the HOA spies would see it from the street, but one of the neighbors might inadvertently spill the beans. Then I'd be sitting with a bunch of equipment that I'd have to sell or give away.

[Ralph Mowery]

With the government over riding things of the HOA, surprises me that they have not done that for solar panels. They did that for the small Direct TV type antennas.

[Scott Lurndal]

Depends on the State. Some states forbid HOA's from preventing solar installations.

[gfretwell]

Although not required in the listing and installation instructions twisting the wires tight and trimming to length, then screwing on the wire nut makes a better splice that is not going to come loose.

[gfretwell]

It depends on the state law. Many states have told HOAs they can't ban solar collectors and they will be mandatory in California soon (new construction) if not already. The law was passed, I am just not sure of the implementation date.

[Ed Pawlowski]

Once AOC gets the New Greed Deal passes, solar panels will become mandatory. Even umbrellas will have solar panels so you can walk and charge your phone.

Note: Greed was a typo for Green. Somehow though, I think it is a better description.

[Clare Snyder]

Which can also be acheived with LEDs

[Clare Snyder]

and clothes lines (at least here in Ontario)

[Clare Snyder]

Not only not required but not recommended - as in "not kosher"

[gfretwell]

Cite that. It certainly is not in the NEC nor is it in the instructions from Ideal

see #5.

I am always amazed at how much mis information and urban legend that gets cited as fact on the internet.

[Clare Snyder]

From Ed McLaren, an instructor at ATT: Not only is pre-twisting not required, it is not recommended. The internal "thread" of the wirenut will get a better grip on the wires if you do not pre-twist. The wires will conform better to the shape of the internal thread if the wirenut does the twisting.

I don't like Ideals - prefer Marrett connectors. The way the "spring" is designrd they actually work better not pretwisted. and just for information, Bill Marr INVENTED the wire nut in 1914. In Canada. Their "true Blue" is the Cat's Ass for general residential wiring. They do now say pre-twisting is acceptable. Wasn't back in '69 with the old black phenolics - or in the 70s with the ACS (for aluminum oe Aluminum/Copper)

[micky]

I tried using my clothes line as a Direct TV antenna, but it didnt' work well. Then I hung solar sells from it and that worked much better. When the HOA narcs come by, I pull the line back in.

[micky]

I live in an HOA and one a small number of my neighbors have installed solar cells. One installation looks terrible. They used galvanized conduit and ran it a foot or two to the edge of hte roof, then around the gutter then down the whole front of the house. It looks terrible. The whole thing looks terrible because of that.

The house was brown to begin with. Don't they make brown conduit?

(Even that wouldn't be enough fo rme, but it would look a heck of a lot better. They haven't tried to paint it either.)