New Concrete & Aluminum Railing Question - Part II

Kate,

Don't have your exact answer, I've seen many types of railings mounted in concrete, after allowed to cure. A hole is cored and epoxy (?) is used. (keep it in the correct position while the epoxy cures) Look around at various "public" buildings with handicap access

Best example I found of this is here:

pic

Hi, I drilled a hole using a [proper bit, then installed a star bolt in the hole to fasten the railing mounting base.(you'll have maybe three or four being 8' long)

Hi, After concrete cures enough. drill and install star nut. And bolt onto it.

Around here, it's done all the time. Lags & shield. You'll of course need a masonry bit, lags & shields can be bought by the piece, not necessarily by the box. For example:

Hard to say without seeing the railing and how it mounts. The photos are about useless since they take wood posts and you are using aluminum. I suggest picking out a railing then come back here with some specs.

That picture is exactly what I was trying to describe.

Thanks for the info., as well as the tip on epoxy. Much appreciated.

OK, now I am feeling better about my plan. One end will be mounted to the siding of my house, and the other two posts will each have four holes each that will need to be drilled/mounted.

Thank you!

Thank you. I love this newsgroup. I appreciate all the great info. given.

helpful. Thanks.

P.S. The pic is named "railing hydrologic cement", so check that out.

A welding/metal shop could fabricate a steel rail from tubing. Stronger than Aluminum.

Back in the stone age, we would take our best guess as to where the railing mounts would be, and shove an aluminum pop can into the concrete at that point. Once railings showed up, and the porch had sort-of cured, we'd tug the pop cans out, and set the anchor sockets in the hole with fast-setting cement. Probably not as strong as setting the bolts in the original pour, but stronger than epoxy-setting the bolts in drilled holes.

I'd aim at having holes for the vertical rails to drop down into, rather than bolting to a flat surface. Not likely the rails will ever be pulled UP strongly, but they definitely need to be strong against sideways forces. You can always kid-proof them with wedges in the sides of the holes.

-- aem sends...

Here's what they use around here.

I' ve used these several times for anchoring door frame, aluminum railing base and even (2X4 & 2X6) lumber bottom plate to concrete. They work well. Just drill slowly and carefully ( dont have the drill set on High speed). I like to pull the bit out every 1/2 - 1" inch or so and suck the dust out of the hole with a Shop Vac. Make sure the hole is "clean" before inserting the Blu Screw and use a socket drive to turn it down.

NOTE: the website says MAX imbedding: 1 3/4" so if you re going with a regular aluminum flange ~ 3/16", then I'd go with the 1 3/4" ones. Less drilling anyway.

This is excellent info. I have gotten so many great ideas that I have my homework cut out for me. This is exactly what I am looking for to finish the project.

I will report back in around three weeks to let everyone know how it went.

The concrete man is starting tomorrow.

Many thanks.

Noted with thanks.

Interesting story re: the pop can. I am printing out all of this great info. and giving it to a friend who will be helping me with the railing.

Many thanks.

e =EF=BF=BDunit =EF=BF=BDwhich =EF=BF=BDyou need to anchor to the

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who would drill into any properly

=BF=BDthis purpose. Even if you did -=3D you

roperly so that it

ckets =EF=BF=BD(and =EF=BF=BDthere =EF=BF=BDare =EF=BF=BDliterally tons of

need to have them and the threaded

soft cement. THen they dry

ULD NOT DRILL into the concrete base

neighbors upgraded to Aluminum. railings, almost useless weak , in a fall may well break away and person fall 10 feet. these bolted to the surface.

far better to cement in a strong railing into the slab.