Both 50-foot hoses work just fine, all by themselves; but I need to
combine them together to empty the last 4 feet of the pool! :(
Since the pool equipment is below the pool, I first opened the
spout at the filter, and then I opened up the pump baskets, and
that drained the pool about half way.
Then, I siphoned off another few feet of water with the individual
50-foot lengths of 1.5" diameter vacuum hose:
The problem is now the water level is too low for the 50 foot
lengths of vacuum hose, so I have to join them together on the
Each time I try, I fail, and I can see water leaking out at the
joint. I tried the "blue" glue (which is really a solvent), but
it failed miserably as the white stuff on the ends of the vacuum
hoses won't stick to the blue glue.
So, at the moment, I'm siphoning with a 100 foot long 3/4" garden
But, the outflow from the garden hose is puny compared to that
of the vacuum hoses.h
What I need is some way to join the two vacuum hoses with an
airtight fit. The contraption I'm using works fine for vacuuming,
but, it won't siphon (due to small leaks somewhere I guess).
How about a rubber Fernco style coupling?
Here's one you can find at Home Depot:
As long as you keep the two hose ends close together, I wouldn't think it
would collapse from the suction. The rubber fitting can also accomodate
hose ends that are slightly larger or smaller.
On Tue, 06 May 2014 15:59:34 -0700, Pico Rico wrote:
I am using the garden hose now, but it sucks:
Garden hoses easily plug up with the muck.
See this muck, for example, cleaned up from earlier today:
Plus, the output from the garden hose is downright puny:
What takes about an hour with the 1.5 inch diameter vacuum
hose seems to take about four times as long with the 3/4" diameter
Even longer if I don't unclog the plugs that inevitably occur.
So, really, as a solution, the garden hose stinks!
What I need is to join the two 50 foot vacuum hoses, or, find
a cheap alternative to 1.5 inch diameter hose for at least 100
On Tue, 06 May 2014 23:10:24 +0000, HerHusband wrote:
That's a GREAT IDEA!
The Fernco should work!
I was leaning along the lines of a threaded contraption, but,
I agree with you that a fernco *should* be strong enough not
One problem is that the 1.5 inch diameter vacuum hose ends
are tapered, but, if I'm lucky, I can cinch down the Fernco
and it might seal air tight!
I'll see if I can pick up one today and let you know how
it works out.
Meanwhile, the garden hose is pissing out the green water
inexorably, but it clogs up too much to be the real solution.
I have a sears 1.5 HP (I think) pump, but, it's such a pain in the
buns to get working since it needs to be primed. And, it needs its
own special size hose, and fittings, and working around electricity
and water is never a good thing (yes, I connect it to the GCFI).
I love the simplicity of a siphon!
If only I could get an airtight connection. I'll try the Fernco and
On Tue, 06 May 2014 23:19:11 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
I should say that, with opening the drain and siphoning with the 1.5 inch
diameter hose, it still took about 15 hours just to get to this point.
So, with the garden hose, it would take something like four times that,
and even longer if it clogs (which it inevitably does). Same thing with
the pump (it takes forever and requires too many shenanigans to get it
to keep working as it clogs up all the time also).
Nothing compares to 1.5 inches of sheer diameter!
What you need is called a vaccuum hose joiner:
'Connector 1.5\" OD X 1.5\" OD Smooth Wall Plastic Vacuum Hose Joiner
 - Hose Cuffs & Connectors - Parts & Accessories'
'Steam Brite: Carpet Cleaning Machines, Truck Mount Carpet Cleaning
Machine, Air Duct Cleaning Machines'
It's basically just a piece of hard plastic that you can push both of
the hose cuffs onto.
Phone up any carpet cleaning company and ask where you can buy one of
those in your area.
What I'm seeing is that you have standard vaccuum hose. That vaccuum
hose has a steel wire in it to prevent the hose from collapsing when the
gauge pressure inside it is negative. The white vinyl ends on your
hoses are called "cuffs" and you can buy them at any place listed under
Janitorial Equipment & Supplies in your yellow pages phone directory.
Those cuffs have an internal female thread that screws onto the external
male thread created by the steel wire inside the hose.
You can see the female threads on the inside of the cuffs in this
BUT, IT'S A LEFT HAND THREAD, so you have to turn the cuffs CLOCKWISE to
unscrew them off the ends of your hoses.
A hose joiner is just a piece of plastic that you push both hose cuffs
onto, and thereby effectively connect the two hoses end-to-end.
You might also ask to see if the Janitorial Supply store would sell a
vaccuum hose coupling which would allow you could screw both hoses into
it, thereby joining the two hoses end-to-end, but such a product might
not be practical. That's because you can easily screw the coupling onto
one hose end, but then you'd have to screw the second HOSE into the
coupling because you wouldn't be able to turn the coupling for the
second hose. You'd have to turn the hose instead of the coupling, and
that would be a nuisance. Still, it's worth asking about because there
may be applications where the hoses have to sustain tension in them (if
they're hanging from one floor level over a balcony to the floor below
for example). In that case, you'd have to have a hose coupling and not
just a hose joiner.
In the Janitorial Service sector of the economy, both 1 1/4 inch and 1
1/2 inch hoses are standard sizes. So, if you have a piece of 1 1/2
inch copper pipe, you might be able to use that as a hose joiner as
well. I have plenty of 1 1/2 inch hose cuffs, but I don't have a piece
of 1 1/2 inch copper pipe, so I don't know how well it would fit into a
1 1/2 inch vinyl hose cuff. I'd unscrew one of your hose cuffs and take
it down to any plumbing contractor to see if you can just use 1 1/2 inch
copper pipe instead.
Hope this helps.
If this is the standard "flat" hose, use an internal coupler. Go down
to the store with a small piece of your hose, and put it on various
types of pipe and/or hose to find out which one gives the tightest fit.
Purchase the product, then use it as an internal coupler, with your two
sections of hose overlapping, and some nylon ties to secure it all
On Wed, 07 May 2014 05:42:07 -0700, trader_4 wrote:
I'm not a pool expert, by any sense of the word; but, I have
learned (the hard way) that this is not a 'normal' pool either.
For example, here is the main filter pump drain, and even the
filter basket itself, wide open:
That only drains about one third to one half the pool.
On Wednesday, May 7, 2014 11:52:48 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
I can't make out much in that pic, but it's irrelevant. The
issue is if the inlets in the pool are below water, the pump
should pump the water out. Usually you have skimmers and a
bottom drain. Once the water level goes down below the skimmers,
the pump will draw air and stop working. So, when that starts
to happen, you plug off the skimmers and then the pump will
draw only from the bottom drain.
I seem to recall your pool pump is located below the level of
the pool. That will help. If the pump is at normal ground level
and the pool is deep enough, the pool pump might not be able to
lift water anymore when it gets far enough down. But with your
pump downhill and your ability to siphon, I don't see why the
pool pump can't drain the whole thing.
On Wed, 07 May 2014 05:42:07 -0700, trader_4 wrote:
I just belatedly realized, that you meant that I should use the
*pump* to drain the pool from the main drain, which is at the
bottom of this deep end:
Of course, as you noted, I would have to block off all the other
wall and floor drains first.
This "could" work, and, it sure would be *fast*; but I'm a bit
confused as to how it would work.
Is this the general plan of action you suggest?
0. Block all wall drains & floor drains, leaving only the
main drain at the deep end of the pool open.
1. Open up the outlet of the main filter pump (see circled valve):
2. Optionally, even open up the filter itself, by either removing
the filter drain plug or the top half of the spherical filter?
3. Run the main filter pump, until the pool is dry.
Is that the suggested active drain procedure?
If so, it sure would be fast because it took days to get to this:
On Wednesday, May 7, 2014 12:03:40 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
That's the idea. They have rubber expansion plugs that you can
get online or at a pool store:
Kind of..... except for the last part. Every pool I've seen
there is an outlet at the pool pump pad, usually coming right
off the multi-port valve, that you use to pump water out. It
typically has a blue collapsable hose on it that you drag out
to wherever you want the discharge water to go. Then you set
the valve to exhaust or whatever and turn the pump on.
If you take a plug out at the pad, you're going to have
thousands of gallons of water flowing all over, right there.
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