Need help repiring rust hole in Weber grill dome

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I rebuilt my now 30 year old gas grill a few years ago. Ground off the bolts holding it together, put the cast alunimum parts in my gas self cleaning oven, they came out looking brand new.

Replaced wood shelves with steel, repainted and reassembled. Had some rusty steel areas welded.

New burner, new regulator and hose. Finding a replacement burner required a stop at a speciality grill store.

It was a BIG job, but well worth it since it was my moms grill. We had lots of nice meals on that before she died.

It would of been far easier and cheaper to buy a new grill, but this project wet far beyond $$$

setiment has value too:)

Reply to
hallerb
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: (snip)

True that- Every time I visit my father, he gives me some more of his old tools, since he isn't up to doing much any more, at the age of 83. Some of them are the same tools he taught me with, 40+ years ago. They won't get loaned out, or live in a damp toolbox in the garage.

Reply to
aemeijers

Yes, I can get a brand new Weber charcoal kettle type grill from Lowes for under $100. Actually, I can get a new one from them for less than $90.

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God only knows if that link will work but I went to Lowes.com and did a search for "Weber".

Jay

Reply to
Jay Hanig

&storeId=3D10151&Ntk=3Di_products

Try tinyurl.com.

I'm not talking about a overpriced regular charcoal grill. You can buy a off-brand for about 30 bucks. I'm talking about a "REAL" Weber gas grill. Entry level for those is probably around $400.

But since the OP didn't specify.............

Reply to
Ron

-snip-

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To me- a *real* grill uses charcoal, but different strokes, I guess.

The OP said a rust hole through the dome. The only ones I know of with domes are the charcoal grills. Once they start to rust- they are near the end of their lives.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I was relying on people to note the level of indentation. He had two ">" signs. I thought I might follow with a reply to your single >

indentation, but didn't have anything to say. If I had also written something in reply to you, would that have made the whole reply okay?

What is the concensus here? Is it okay to rely on the number of quote indicators, or must the reply be amended by for example, deleting the attribution line at the top?

Reply to
mm

The number of > signs is not always a reliable indicator, especially if one or more people in the chain use Google or other non-standard posting programs. (I learned about Google the hard way- I have to use Google Groups when visiting relatives, since none of them are into Usenet, and it is bad manners to reconfig somebody else's computer.) Plus, of course, if anyone upthread has done snips without flagging them, it gets more confusing. If you snip somebody's entire post out of a thread, yes, you should also delete their name, IMHO. I usually try to swim upthread and find a post that contains the fewest authors as possible, as close to the part I am replying to as possible. If it is a long involved thread and I am replying to multiple people, I may post a flag at the top, and reply in-line, marking my words with something other than a >. But some people get all hissy at that, so I have been doing it less and less, and posting multiple seperate replies instead.

I TRY to be careful about attributions and clipping, but even I screw up once in a while, and I have been online over twenty years now.

Reply to
aemeijers

For me, patching it for nothing with a couple washers and a bolt makes more sense than spending $100 for something that won't do the job any better. Maybe it'll last a year - maybe ten years. Either way, I've saved unnecessary expense. Someone will probably offer a used one on freecycle or craigslist before the repair fails.

Reply to
Bob F

Jay Hanig wrote in news:UlWHn.7093$V% snipped-for-privacy@newsfe08.iad:

I can't figure out how the Weber top "rusted out". I thought they were aluminum,and also,the top is domed so water runs off it. I can see the cooking or coal grids rusting out,but you can buy new replacements.

Plus,if it's aluminum,you could just pop-rivet a patch onto it. Aluminum doesn't braze or solder easily. Welding thin aluminum is not easy,either.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Think about it. A container made of STAMPED aluminum holding a charcoal fire for several hours? Ever seen an aluminum-sided house after a fire?

Webers are made of enameled steel, much like an old speckled-blue coffee pot.

I'm no expert in aluminum alloys, but the only heat-contact aluminum parts I have ever seen were cast or spun, not stamped, and much thicker and harder than any sheet aluminum I have ever seen.

Reply to
aemeijers

I ended up with a lot of my dads tools. It is special to be using them while thinking of Dad. Although Dad wasn't always the happiest guy, in fact when he was around most of us scrambled for safety! But when it came time for him to do repairs, I was always there right next to him. What ever he did I wanted to learn, I was just telling my mom a story about a day fixing some plumbing, the torch was starting the wood on fire so he told me to get a piece of metal to block the flame. I asked How about an old Lisence plate? Yes, hurry up!! Oh you should have heard him bitching when he discovered that back in the late 60's or early 70's the changed to aluminum plates and he melted a hole through it in no time! A little scary then, now I laugh about it. Hey, dad was dad.

Just a few days ago I found an old tape measure of his. Trying to remember the name, something like "Hankle and Mcoy" Like most of them it was small, all metal of course. "Add two inches", it was about 2 inches square and 5/8 wide. No hold/lock button. I also have his 50' also. Simple things like a carpenters square, with drips of paint, rust here and there. I scraped off the paint and put some muriatic acid on it and lightly brushed both side. Hosed it off and it looked almost new. Gave it 2 coats of car wax and hung it on the wall.

Reply to
Tony

Thanks for the reply.

In this case, I quoted the whole post, including the one line from the previous poster.

Reply to
mm

I use GG 90% of the time and never have a problem.

The problem is with other newsreaders - Outlook Express for one - that don't add the ">"

But that wasn't the problem in this case.

Reply to
Ron

On May 17, 1:12=A0am, mm wrote:,

You need to learn how to reply to a post correctly, period.

Reply to
Ron

I thought they were aluminum,and also,the top is domed so water runs off it. I can see the cooking or coal grids rusting out,but you can buy new replacements.

Mine is a ceramic coated steel. If it was dented/chipped...it would rust.

Reply to
Bob Villa

aemeijers wrote in news:3OmdnbusK9rMKG3WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

the DOME (the lid) doesn't hold the hot coals,nor does the bottom of a Weber;there's a steel grid to hold the coals,so air can circulate from the bottom and the ash drops off the coals(that's a major feature,BTW). I've got a similar domed grill with an aluminum domed lid and bottom and it stays out in the rain,no burnthru. I've had the coal grid rust out.

Heck,most people grill with the lid off anyways. Maybe he left it off and water puddled in it,on the inside. That would explain the rust,if it's a steel lid. Does Weber paint the inside of the lid??

except there's no "heat-contact" for a Weber's -lid-. It's far from the coals.

But,since it's steel,he could make a small patch,and braze it on with a Bernz-o-matic oxy-MAPP torch. HD sells a torch kit that includes enough brazing rod to do that small a job. then he could use hi-temp grill paint to finish it. they also sell sheet steel,although a bit pricy. Sure,it won't be the porcelainized enamel of the original,but good enough.

I checked,Weber doesn't sell the lid alone.

so,it's patch,live with the hole,or buy a new grill.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

So are you going to tell me what you think is correct, or just complain?

And there were no missing ">" signs. It was clear to anyone who paid attention.

>
Reply to
mm

Well, I thought you complained the first time too, but it was only this time. So I withdrawn the complaint about your complaining, since you only did once, but it still wasn't helpful.

Reply to
mm

I'd still like to know what google groups does to their posts that prevents IE from quoteing properly. They are the only posts that cause the problem.

Reply to
Bob F

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Reply to
Ron

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