mower runs for a couple of minutes only

--- just mow really really fast!

I think that more often heat related is the coil. Most of mine simply have a coil and a wire to the plug. I'm thinking form your posts you have a coil and some sort of ignition module. If you've got a can of car refrigerant handy you can ice down the suspect parts individually and see if that fixes it.

Check the kill switch, not sure what it is like on that mower.

Jimmie

First check that the plug wire is not cracked/split and also check the terminal too ensure it fits snug on the spark plug. Clean the terminal.

The ignition module could have corrosion that can be cleaned with some sand paper. Sometimes you cannot see tiny cracks in a coil, that expand from heat. The module could have even slipped a bit -- if so adjust and tighten.

Your ignition pic:

You just dont get it do you, ok I will expain it for you since you cant figure this basic one out and you ruined a motor with Either, Test first with Either by spraying just a shot into the carb, if it doesnt start test for spark by removing the plug, reinsert it back into the socket, ground the plug on the head. While someone else pulls the starter cord, check strength and color of spark. Now stormin, do you get it. Its not at that difficult but I made it easy so you dont blow up another motor. Since this is basic kids stuff I forget to be complete for the less understanding, now dont tell us, do you need the saftey warnings also on all the dangers, geeze wake up stormin.

If youve hit any rocks or stalled the motor by the blade hitting anything the flywheel key could be bent or sheared, that alters timing and can make it run like crap but electronics would be a first bet, even a bad plug or wire might go off when hot. But ive usualy ended up with the coil or module being the failed part

This is okay for a lawnmower, but be careful with something bigger, like a 1970 Ford LTD convertible with V-8 engine.

I was in a small garage if that matters. I sprayed in starter fluid, then took off a plug wire to check for spark and the whole thing exploded in my face.

Fortunately, I didn't flinch or the edge of the hood would have cut deeply into the back of my neck, or the hood itself would have banged my head.

But when I looked at the valve cover near me it was ripped up from 4 of the bolts, spread around the circumference -- the holes were either elongated or the outer edge of the hole was broken off -- and between the good bolt holes, the rim was lifted in about 3 places. I had totally ruined the valve cover and they don't sell them at autoparts stores**. Nor are their junkyards in Brooklyn.

I guess I'm lucky it didn't also blow apart the carburetor, manifold and cylinders, and how the spark or flame got under the valve cover, I do not know.

Leaky valve stem seals could allow vapor in that area.

Tbat makes sense. I guess the valve cover was the only place it accumulated, and the carb throat, manifold, and cylinders were cleared by normal engine operation??

I was trying to start my brother's car, which was broken he had told me, while he was out of town. I don't remember if or how I actually started it.

If you remember the real old motors they always had a vented valve cover cap. When car manufacturers became more pollution conscious they vented valve cover vapors into the intake manifold. I supposed the ether could have backed up into the valve cover that way too but usually there was a one way valve in the vent tube that would prevent that providing it wasn't stuck open from lack of maintenance.

Works, for me.

He said no spark, which suggests a bad coil. Or, stop wire shorted to ground.

Anyone know the penalty for releasing freon?

The maroon now changes his instructions. Having been caught giving dangerous instructions.

I guess I should have made it clear for Are You Smarter Than A 4th Grader Stormin, I will do better next time kid. BTW Maroon was reserved for you years ago for good reason. And just when I thought being nice was correct, so that will change.