We have a GE built-in microwave above the range and all of a sudden the
cooking times needed to heat food have drastically increased. Is it
possible for a microwave to gradually wear out? This unit is only 7 yrs
old. I was under the impression, they either heated or didn't, and didn't
think there was an in-between.
Anyway to check it?
Tired of 10 minute, lukewarm leftovers!
10 year old OTR would be approx 600watts, which would likely boil a cup
of water under 4-5 minutes.
Since it -will- somewhat work...certainly sounds like the mag is sour.
Appliance Repair Aid
Hey, maybe you can jolt a magnetron cathode with a short burst of
filament overcurrent to boil off junk and revitalize the cathode surface
like we used to do with B&W CRT cathodes back in the 50s?
Remember those little autotransformer CRT "boosters" they used to sell?
Thanks for the mammaries,
Then you missed a great period in America's history. <G>
The "boosters" were just little autotransformers with a tube base plug
and a tube socket wired to them. When placed between a CRT's base and
it's socket connector they boosted the filament voltage by about 20% so
the "picture got bright" again for a few more months before the filament
finally burned out.
On 30 Mar 2005 10:52:19 -0800, "Appliance Repair Aid"
I got a hammock. From eye to eye is 11'. My patio supports are about
8' wide, plus or minus. I could use an outside 4x6 support leg, and
then attatch the other end to a double stud, but am not sure if the
double stud would hold it, or if it would cause the stucco to flex
off. I have looked and looked, and there just doesn't seem to be any
place to put it where it wouldn't be in the way.
I have 2x8 rafters 24" oc, and 14 feet long. Can a hammock be hung
from rafters, or would that make it fold up too much in the middle,
hence folding the napping person in half? Could I use steel tubes
coming down vertically from the rafters, and then use chains at an
angle from the lowest point back up to the rafter?
Some ideas, please.
I'll probably just make a tube steel base for it, but that's just
another thing to do and another thing to move around.
The maximum output of a magnetron tube drops about 1-3% a year in
average use, probably because the coating on its cathode wears out and
its permanent magnet weakens (sometimes even cracks). You can measure
the power of an oven by heating some water and measuring the amount of
Fill a glass or plastic container with exactly 1 quart of cold tap
water, and measure its temperature in fahrenheit by stirring a
thermometer in it. Call this temperature T1. Set the microwave for
full power (100% power), and heat this water for exactly 60 seconds.
Immediately measure the temperature again by stirring, and call it T2.
The power in watts = 37 x (T2-T1).
For the metric version, measure temperatures in Celcius and use exactly
1 litre of water. Power = 70 x (T2-T1).
Most magnetrons are warranted for 5-10 years, probably parts only, but
someone _very_ familiar with electronics repair could change the
magnetron tube for as little as $35-50, provided it's bought from the
right source (prices vary greatly, MCM Electronics is good). For
another $25-30 the high voltage capacitor, high voltage diode, and
magnetron thermal cut-off can be replaced (worthwhile with an overhead
oven, which is hard to remove and reinstall). This work is dangerous
be cause magnetrons work at thousands of volts (capacitor can retain
voltage indefinitely after AC cord is unplugged), and an incorrectly
installed magnetron tube can let strong microwaves leak past its brass
braid gasket (can cause cataracts, even skin burns). Do not operate
the oven until its metal cover has been completely reinstalled, to
protect against an exploding capacitor or the worst of the microwave
leakage. See www.repairfaq.org for more information and precautions.
You're positive the power level is set to full? The reason I state
this is because it happened to me on a GE ...so I'm not calling you
stupid unless I include myself in that :-). Some have a defrost
button, etc. Mine did not and finding the power level setting was not
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.