A decal on my furnace blower seemed to say the motor was permanently
lubricated. The other day I got my head a little lower and saw a second
decal saying it should be lubricated every couple of years with 20W
I think 3-in-1 is like that, but I can't find my can. I did find a
4-ounce container of Marvel Lubricating Oil. Among the uses listed on
the label is "small electric motors."
Small is relative. Would Marvel Lubricating Oil be good for a furnace
Non-synthetic compressor oils will be low-foaming non-detergent and
generally can find both 20W and 30W.
I'd go lighter rather than heavier on viscosity; just lube a little more
The Marvel stuff I'd presume unless it says specifically it isn't will
be detergent-laden. The web site is useless for any actual information;
the Turtle Wax site doesn't do anything except link to the old Marvel
site. The slogan's right -- it's a mystery.
Thanks, it looks as if you and Salty Dog are right.
One way to measure viscosity of motor oil is cSt at 40C. CSt is a
measure of the number of seconds it takes a certain amount to drain
through a certain tube.
At 40C, the cSt of 10W should be 25-35
I have a fresh can of 10W-30, a remnant of 30W nondetergent in a can I
bought last year, and a little 20W-50 in a can several years old. I
started with the 10W-30 because it's the freshest.
seconds at 25C
If the 10W30 has a cSt about 30, the 20W-50 has a cSt of 55. So far, so
good. The 30W ND seems to have a cSt of 64, like 20W oil. So maybe
that brand of 30W could pass for 20W.
The Marvel Lubricating Oil? Three seconds!
Good show, very inneresting.
But simply shaking MMoil, or feeling it, tells you its too thin.
My jugs of it tout it as an additive. So you may be able to "cut" some of
the oil you have, and use it in your motor, if the oil you have feels too
thick. Or perform you cSt test on various mixtures..
I used to use Marvel Mystery Oil. The Lubricating Oil doesn't feel the
same, as I recall.
I found a data sheet from Flinn Scientific: 30% mineral spirits, 67%
naphthenic base oil distillates.
The mineral spirits could wash away the lubricant. The naphthenic base
oil distillates have low viscosity. Their lubricating performance and
oxidation stability make them undesirable as lubricating oils.
I don't know how far I'd have to go to get 20W ND. At room temperature,
the 30W I have drains from a pipette about like 20W. If it's a little
more viscous than the motor manufacturer intended, I wonder what harm it
Inneresting, how you think so much of yourself, your own advice, that you
feel no obligation whatsoever to elaborate on your little edicts. The
hallmark of a spoiled brat, still being supported by mommy.
Howzat Geothermal doin??
On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:35:55 -0400, "Existential Angst"
Marvel Mystery Oil is about SAE 3W, which is quite a bit thinner than
the SAE 20w called for in this application.
It is also quite flammable at relatively low temps. Probably not too
smart to use on a heavy duty motor, especially one attached to a
furnace. Of course, "not too smart" is a specialty of yours, so maybe
you should try it.
It's about 20% solvents. I'll bet that really leads to long bearing
Once again, for anybody reading this... Existential Angst is either a
complete moron, or he deliberately posts incorrect and sometime
dangerous advice. Either way, you really don't want to do anything he
suggests without first asking someone with a little knowledge and a
lot less hostility.
See my other post. You are dead wrong.
Probably not too
Heh, the mix thing again...
Well, I have enough knowledge to put some MM oil in a blue flame and observe
that it does not burn.
And I know the diff between flash point and ignition point.
Funny how you speak with so much authority, and are wrong in almost all of
Once in a while you luck out, but clearly it is luck.
STILL not understanding "mix"???
STill not understanding, "I put MM oil in a blue stove flame and it didn't
Still don't understand the CYA nature of labeling? goddamm vegetable oil is
AND, according to the MSDS, if you mix combustibles with non-combustibles
(like motor oil) with certain proportions, the mixture is no longer
combustible -- ESP if chemical interactions have occured.
Also, you said "flammable", which is distinctly different than
Well, at least you made it clear how you go about gathering information --
from goddamm pictures of old cans on Flickr.... That sounds about right for
On Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:58:33 -0400, "Existential Angst"
You may as well thin the oil with gasoline. You'll have similar
How inconvenient for you:
Once again - the flash point (now that you know what it means) for
Marvel Mystery Oil is 128 degrees F.
The product is labled "DANGER - COMBUSTIBLE" in LARGE TYPE on the
front of the can, and the MSDS also confirms that it is considered
You are a chemist, now? Gasoline is short/medium-chain hydrocarbons.
MM oil is...... ??
How do you know it is 128 F??
Except you were saying it would burn up in an electric motor.
I put it in a blue flame, and it did not burn. Are you still not
Combustibility has to do with a flammable vapor, not the liquid itself. The
whole concept is essentially irrelevant in the context of a bronze bearing
in an electric motor, yet you keep harping on it.
If the context were 55 gal open drums in a warehouse where welding was going
on, then yeah, there is a cause for concern, but this is a totally different
context. Absolutely no appreciable vapor of MM oil, by itself and certainly
if mixed with 30 or 40 wt oil, could *possibly* accumulate in an electric
motor, esp. with air currents inherent around 99.999% of motors, ESP a
blower. From what, mebbe 1 cc of MM oil???
Which makes you are a straw-clutching idiot. Just like in those horsepower
threads, which you are apparently still smarting from.
and the MSDS also confirms that it is considered
For a material to be classed as flammable, the flash point needs to be below
Which is proly why the MM oil label did not say "flammable".
Show us how the MSDS considers MM oil to be flammable.
How long are you going to persist in this?
You do have tenacity, I must say. Which is often associated with stupidity.
The fact that MSDS classified MM oil as flammable just goes to show that
good help is hard to find, as they violated their own definition of
An example of one moron bolstering another moron.
Heh, mebbe YOU could get a job with the MSDS......
Which is all moot anyway, since MM doesn't burn in a blue flame, a fact
which you have yet to acknowledge -- as well as the mixture thing, as well
as your ATF claim, and almost everything else you've tried to come up with.
The ONLY thing you were right about was your first guess, that MM by itself
is proly not suitable for bearings, and that was a lucky guess, given your
prediliction for error after error, and an inability to gauge context.
Clutching at meaningless details, btw, is another hallmark of stupidity.
Remember your initial assertion: That MM was bad, because it was dangerous
near a motor.
Clearly that assertion is false.
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