Hi, How about making it come on/off by sunlight. On with sundown(dark), off with sun up(light). Some you can adjust sensitivity. There is even an adaptor which goes in between light socket and lamp. Tony
a double pole double throw switch and an indoor outlet switched by it would allow any choices of lamps or nightlights to show power on indoors on one side of the circuit while illuminating the outdoor lights. alternative: an old outdoor van side view mirror might be mounted just outside your window to see down an alleyway or around a corner.
Easy cheap fix. Sneak out a bottle of your wife's red nail polish. Turn the switch on and then paint the part of the switch that is showing red. Now when the light is on you see red and when the light is off you don't. It's easy to see from a distance and catches your attention.
Go to a real electrical store. I installed a switch for the attic light (located by the pull down stair) that has both a switch and light that illuminates when the switch is on.
Tony said: "Even HD has it. You you use jumper on the switch either way you want."
I was so excited about this post, I took my cover plate off my recent HD-purchased Leviton lighted switch... only to find that there is no jumper. Hmmm, I guess I got the cheapy brand. I too wish my lighted switch would light when the light is on, not off. Seems backwards to me.
The jumperable kind are the ones where the lamp is separate from the switch. These are fit a duplex outlet faceplate, with the switch in one of the outlet positions and the lamp in the other. Of course decora models exist too.
The ones where the switch handle itself glows are hardwired either to be "illuminated switches" (glows when load is off) or "pilot light switches" (glows when load is on, which is what you want). Often they're 3-way because it's with 3-ways that you can't tell on from off by the position of the switch.
They're that way so you can see the switch in a darkened room (so you can turn the lights on, at which point there is no longer a need for the switch being lit). Another reason is that there's no need to connect the switch to neutral for it to work (leakage through the load is enough).
So when such a switch is "off", it is not really off, it is leaking a little current through to the load? How much power does the switch use when "off"?
Very little -- I think it's probably around 0.05 watt. You could research the power used by Ne-2 bulbs, which are, I think, similar to what's used, if you want a better number.
If this works for you, you could take it a step further and install one of these Leviton electronic timers. (see link below) The choices are 2, 4, 8, and 12 hours, plus it functions as a pilot light as well.
No-one could ever leave the lights burning for more than one evening again. Now that would be cool.
I have a pilot-light switch (light is separate from the switch handle), I'm pretty sure a Leviton, that says it's 1/35 W, which is under 0.03 W. Leviton doesn't seem to show this info for their lighted-handle switches on their web site. I'll bet it's less.
Perhaps they don't say on the "lit while off" version" because it will vary (slightly) according to what it's hooked to.
The current through an Ne-2 (or similar) will depend on its series resistor -- FWIW, my guesstimate was based on my recollection that we used to use 147k +/- resistors with them, and my further recollection that once fired the voltage across one is about 60V (leaving about 60V across the resistor) but if a brighter glow is desired a smaller value could be used. If my recollection proves wrong, I won't be surprised, because it hasn't been an issue for me in probably 20 years.
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